i dont remember where but i saw someone somewhere say meyers tried to build a capacitor styled cell by increasing spacing. may have been one of the reds on hhohuntsville.com not sure tho. I increased my spacing to 1/8" with good results
i dont remember where but i saw someone somewhere say meyers tried to build a capacitor styled cell by increasing spacing. may have been one of the reds on hhohuntsville.com not sure tho. I increased my spacing to 1/8" with good results
An easy cooling system would be to continue your 3/4" pipe out the ends and circulate water or antifreeze through to a tranny cooler or back to the radiator. Drill two holes in each end with two couplings or bushings into the holes. Filing the lip out to slide a continuous pipe through would be best sealing with pvc glue. Built in cooling system.Originally Posted by Jaxom
That's an interesting idea...I just worry that the PVC core will be too insulative to conduct heat into the cooling fluid very well. I'm probably going to end up using a recirculation pump to run the electrolyte through a SS coil in front of the radiator, or under the vehicle.
Would you rely on convection to circulate the fluid? Don't think it would work very well without a pump.... Using a pump, you think the corrosive environment eat the pump parts up?
I thought of the same thing. Perhaps using a thinner walled container and wrapping a copper coil around the exterior to dissipate the heat.
True. It could insulate too well, but try pushing the electrolyte through holes through that tube and then allowing gas and electrolyte to circulate out into a reservoir and separating that way this will also cool the electrolyte. Use a tee type setup to connect discharge line to reservoir water will flow down into the tank and the gas will flow up into the line too engine.
I will not rely on convection for this system. I'm probably mounting my genny under the vehicle, with an underhood bubbler doubling as a reservoir. The hose routing will be a little twisty, and that will hinder convection flow because of the friction through the tubing. The bubbler may at times be hotter then the genny (due to engine heat being retained underhood) so that would kill convection also. I plan to use a circulation pump drawing from the bottom of the bubbler, pumping through the cooler and then into the generator. The output tube from the genny will carry the HHO (still mixed in the electrolyte) to an inlet port on the side of the bubbler. The HHO can then bubble out and the electrolyte will be recirculated through the cooler and genny.
As far as the environment goes, it's just a matter of finding the right pump. Most inline fuel pumps use SS impellers, and many are now almost entirely made of plastic. I'll just have to track one down that produces lots of flow and not too much pressure. It also crossed my mind to use a bilge pump off a Sea-Doo. They're 12v high-flow pumps, and they're rated for seawater exposure. I figure if they can take being immersed in saltwater they should be able to handle the electrolyte. Not sure if they'll handle the heat though.....
Bump to the top.
Jaxom - I was hoping to find out how your test are coming from this design?
Honestly I haven't done much with it lately. I just finished building a fairly unique type of PWM for it and need to modify the cell for the controller to work the way I want. I'll also be upgrading the non-SS jumpers that are currently in the cell. I have the genny housing and bubbler mounted up and plumbed, but I haven't found a good source for the 3/8" SS tubing I need for the cooler, and I haven't settled on a circulation pump yet. I'm also very concerned about the issues Mr. Smith has run into right now. Money has been short lately so it's hard to make any real progress.
Don't fret, the concept isn't dead and I'm still working on it. I'll post up when I have updates.
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Coooool
Wow that is interesting totally, I have come across a couple of thoughts you may be able to use. I really like your design and I think if you would Isolate the electric curent. By a method I have found works in my new design. it looks like it may work for you also.
I see your tube is rather close to your plate awray well, What I did was to wrap true gum ruber at the ends of my plates; and because there was not much more extra space there I found that puting spacers virtually between the plates on the outside of the ruber, a. (forcing a tight seal between the inside container wall the spacer and the outside of the plate awray makes a nice leakproof seal and it breaks down nicely too), b.( stretching the ruber to a tight fit) and the housing It will seal the electricty from leaking and that changes the electricle attitude nicely. and as suggested by Bob Boyce not covering the tops of the plates with water or not letting the bubbles flow over the tops of the plates also greatly enhances the conductivity of the cell.
I also concure hear too.
I read through all this thread and I must say I am extremely impressed. Using the calculator found here http://www.watervan.co.uk/tools.php
and your numbers of 12.5volts, 20 amps, and 2.0lpm it calculated a MMW of 8.00. I must say, I was stunned for a second when that result came up.
I plan on building a generator exactly like this as soon as possible. Running 3lpm at 30amps on my 1.5L engine should make a world of difference. Have you ever tried wrapping a bicycle tire tube around the outsides of the plates to help stop voltage jump? I'm not very educated on voltage jump but I wrapped one of my experimental generators in electrical tape and it seemed to help production a bit.
8MMW is awesome though so I'm not complaining.
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