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Thread: guidance on plate setup (pic)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    guidance on plate setup (pic)

    Hi!

    I have a pic here of my plate setup. Using the Smackbooster as a reference, but not using as many plates because I can't find a good enclosure for it for cheap (4inch pvc is what I hve)

    basically, I have P=plate, W=nylon washer, B=bolt connecting 2 plates

    PwP b PwP b PwP b PwP b PwP

    So I have 1outer plate on each end, and 4 plate 'units'. 1 unit is 2 plates connected via stainless steal bolt.

    I was going to have
    + NNNN -
    or
    + NN - NN + (adding another plate)


    Would more nuetral plates help me generate more HHO?

  2. #2
    I don't know for sure, but you might consider putting your plates closer?

    I'm guessing you have about 3mm gap at the smaller spaces, and about a centimeter at the ones with the nuts?

    Try putting either 3mm or 6mm gaps between ALL the plates, separated by rubber/plastic/nylon washers. But I'm still experimenting with this too, so I might be completely off on that.

    Also, you'll be able to put more neutral plates on there by getting rid of the nuts. All they are doing is sharing voltage between 2 plates, essentially making those 2 plates connected become like 1 plate. I think.

  3. #3
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    how are you going to control current?
    with that setup youre going to creat alot of heat
    The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style?
    www.hhounderground.com

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helz_McFugly View Post


    how are you going to control current?
    with that setup youre going to creat alot of heat
    I'm going to use a 20amp breaker, with fuse as well as cutoff switch.

    so if i did that i'd have lower voltage and amps across each nuetral plate right? I was going to wrap the sides (leave top and bottom open) with shrink-wrap tape to keep current from just bleeding across all the edges

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by borgdrone View Post
    I'm going to use a 20amp breaker, with fuse as well as cutoff switch.

    so if i did that i'd have lower voltage and amps across each nuetral plate right? I was going to wrap the sides (leave top and bottom open) with shrink-wrap tape to keep current from just bleeding across all the edges
    you cant control your current with a breaker and fuse. Its a must have to keep it from shorting out or melting but thats just a fail safe.

    If you dont have a PWM youre going to have to control your amps/heat=(loss of energy) with your electrolyte mixture. what electrolyte are you going to use? how much water will your system hold?

    to much e-lyte and youll get to much heat and a major loss in current and very low MMW

    to little e-lyte and you wont be making much HHO

    If youre not using a PWM, and Im guessing youre not, its going to take some bench work to get your solution right. add a couple tea spoons of your e-lyte (KOH is the best) and let it run for 10 minutes to make sure it doesnt over heat, 120f is a good temp, if it doesnt get warm or produce much HHO add another teaspoon, and so on and so on,, untill you get it just right, but I would look into getting a PWM.
    The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style?
    www.hhounderground.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Thank you magic surgeon man!


    Here are some I found, do you have a recommendation? One is less expensive, but I wonder at its quality. But some of the more expensive ones have 400hz to 3khz adjustments.

    $25 http://www.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=2651121
    $20 kit http://us.ebid.net/perl/auction.cgi?...googlebase#pic
    $40 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PWM-P...=p4506.c0.m245
    $40 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PWM-P...=p4506.c0.m245

  7. #7
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    that last one looks like it would be perfect for the type cell you are building. I dont think you need to worry about adjusting your frequency yet. plus with the one it comes in a case so your not shorting **** out. $40 aint to bad.

    BTW, im just trying to help anyone whos just getting started with HHO so they dont waist any time or money testing things that we have all tested before.

    I started out with a cell a bit like yours. It was 6 plates in a water sediment filter, and a pvc pipe bubbler, thats it. it use to get so hot it would boil the water. I waisted alot of $ and time figuring out how to get the most efficient system I could get. I wish I had found a frum like this when i was getting started. so if you have any questions about anything just ask. everyone here is here to help.

    magic surgeon man out
    The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style?
    www.hhounderground.com

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helz_McFugly View Post
    BTW, im just trying to help anyone whos just getting started with HHO so they dont waist any time or money testing things that we have all tested before.
    THANK YOU! (and to everyone else who does the same!)

  9. #9
    couldn't you use a 30amp relay if you don't want to worry about adjusting it?

  10. #10
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    a 30amp relay will just limit the current to 30 amps, It wont control anything, and if your e-lyzer gets near 30 ,that relay will get so hot it will melt and fail. You would still have to control your amps/heat with the electrolyte mixture if youre not using a pwm. only you would be limited to 30 amps.

    this is the relay I use. its a stinger 80 amp.
    The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style?
    www.hhounderground.com

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