Back to basics - through extensive bench testing

[sho14u]

Ok, so I have been working with many designs over the past 2 years. I recently set up a bench testing unit comprised of a dual 120amp marine alternator, unregulated, running 1/1 off of a one horse electric motor. I have been using a Smacks cell design for a while and have 4 identicle units. Within each unit I varried the amount of KOH and water levels. Here is what I have found. On an unregulated alternator I am able to produce 1lpm of hydrogen at 22volts and at 30 amps. This equals 660 watts. If I crank up the unit past this, it stalls the one horse motor. 1 horsepower is equal to 746 watts. So when I stall the unit, I am achieving 1hp, 746 watts. When stalled, the unit produces 15 volts at 50 amps, hence 1 horsepower, and about 1 1/2 lpm. Most people haven't set up a bench test to find out these specs, so it gives me a baseline to look at other options. Most of us would like to have a unit that produces 5-10lpm of hydrogen or more at 1hp. The amount of KOH does not really matter as the equation is linear. The more KOH, the more amperage draw, the less voltage produced, and back to 1hp. This is true no matter what the amount of surface area of the electrolyzer or amount of electrolyte and all the rest. If you don't agree, I would like to know why. Now... I have read about torrid coils and the use of a PWM with these units. I have several PWMs but as most of you know, they are really easy to burn up. With my new bench testing unit, you can pulse the field circuit on the alternator at less than 10 amps rather than pulsing the output... so that is not a problem. But who has experimented with torrid coils. I know that a coil will allow you to bump up the voltage output, but as the linear equation states, at a loss of amperage. I also know that resonance frequency of the unit is also important. Anyone done this yet? I would love to find someone that is producing more than 2lpm at 1hp and how.

[rcflyn]

ok, I'm new at this, so maybe you can point me in the right direction for this?
I've just recently ordered 2 PMW's (1st appears cheap), beings winter is drawing near here in Western N.Y. and I've gotta start thinking about freeze points....

. I have several PWMs but as most of you know, they are really easy to burn p. With my new bench testing unit, you can pulse the field circuit on the alternator at less than 10 amps rather than pulsing the output... so that is not a problem.

[Helz_McFugly]

yea I could use a little PWM schooling myself. how to set it and what each setting does "freq", "limit", "Duty". I know what the limit does, kinda know what the duty does, no idea what freq has to do with anything. I know I can run a dsl and phone on the same line on a different freg but no idea what it does in a e-lyzer.

[sho14u]

PWM as I understand it... The PWM's that we are using for HHO that we buy on the internet are essentially current limiters. The reason most people are drawn to them is that they have control of the output of their system. The true way to utilize a PWM is to tune the frequency of the pulse to the unit you are running. Stanley Meyers talked a lot about resonance. This is the frequency that your unit becomes most efficient. I have found that resonance is beyond my capability unless I happen to stumble upon the frequency by chance. So I stick with what I can control. If you have the ability to work with the limit, duty and frequency, then just play with it until you find a sweet spot that seems to produce more. But what you want to watch is the basic mathmatical equation that I stated above: amps times volts equals watts. So if you are able to produce more HHO at the same equation, than you have hit that sweet spot. Hopefully this makes sense.

[sho14u]

ok, I'm new at this, so maybe you can point me in the right direction for this?
I've just recently ordered 2 PMW's (1st appears cheap), beings winter is drawing near here in Western N.Y. and I've gotta start thinking about freeze points....

To answer RCFLYNs question about PWMs, you have purchased 2 units you say... The more expensive one probably has a higher current limit, something like 50amps or so... I would be highly shocked to see a unit handle 50amps continuously. Just food for thought... you want a really cheap way of running a current limiter? Go to your auto parts store and ask for a interior light dimmer for a late 80's S-10 truck. Sounds funny, but that is what I am using for the current limiter on my bench unit. Just make sure you use a heavier heat sink on the unit... Anyway, the outside temperature will not effect a PWM, but the freezing temperature will effect your hydrogen generator. As long as the unit is running, it will produce enough heat as a result of hight voltage or amperage to keep it from freezing. Since you live in NY, you have probably heard about an electric battery blanket. I would wrap one of those around your cell to keep it warm at night. Hopefully that answers your question. I have found over the past 2 years that there is a right way and a wrong way of going about the electrical component of these systems. the right way is to run a second alternator that is completely issolated from the cars electrical system. From there, you run the alternator unregulated so as to get the highest voltage out of the alternator at less amperage, remember, amps times volts equals watts, and 746 watts equals 1 horspower. I dont know if that answered any of your questions, but anything I can answer will save you the money, time, and experimentation that I have done.