ive only used the amp and volt meter on it so far. whats the difference in the 300 and the 1000 setting for reading dc amps? Ive been useing the 1000 BTW
ive only used the amp and volt meter on it so far. whats the difference in the 300 and the 1000 setting for reading dc amps? Ive been useing the 1000 BTW
The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style?
www.hhounderground.com
Precision and resolution. The 1000A probably isn't as accurate for lower currents(<100A) than the 300A range.
The other thing, is that when using a square wave PWM, some meters can be misleading. If they don't measure "true RMS" values, then chances are, you'll have alot of measurement jitter and flat out errors because the meter will take samples (seemingly) randomly as the current/voltage switches on and off. Sometimes it will get a measurement when the current is off, then another measurement when it is full ON, and it may screw with the readout.
make sure there isn't any current jumping across anywhere aka...make sure there are all good connections. I have had this problem and a good infrared temperture gauge works well to find the hottest point and this is usually the point of bad connection.
yea I did have one bad connection at the neg connect at the e-lyzer and it gave off a loud high pitch noise that I could change with the freq adjustment on the PWM. I soldered the connection and it went away as did the heat that was there wich wasnt that hot, now everything runs great. the freq is great for finding the bad connections.
The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style?
www.hhounderground.com