This set of photos is from my latest generator (Third Attempt). It's larger, has 4 separate stacks that I can disconnect individually from outside the chamber without opening the tube. I've got to get some larger wire today before I hook it all up. I'll get back some results when I get done.
As you can see from the photos, It's a little Orange inside. That's because I hooked it up for a test run for a few minutes before disassembling for re-wiring.
Mr. Smith
Photos Continued...
One thing you will notice is that I sealed the fittings with pure silicon sealant. It is waterproof and withstands up to 400 degrees F.
On my first attempts, I had several small dripping leaks. If I move away from baking soda and try Potassium Hydroxide I will definitely not want any leaks.
Mr. Smith
I'm putting a video of my first generator on Youtube. The link is below. You won't see much except the device is hooked up to my car battery with Jumper cables. You will see the bubbler working.
Mr. Smith
I'm happy about the output on my latest generator but I'm concerned about overheating on my wires. I'm connecting each side of my device with 14 gauge wire to the switch. It's the 14 gauge that's getting hot. I'm running 4 gauge wire to ground and from the main system fuse to the switch. I'm now producing nearly 1 liter per minute. That's up from 1 liter every 4.5 minutes.
I've hooked up a dual switch so I can power 2 plates at a time or 4 plates.
I don't really have too many things laying around the shop that will hold up to the heat I'm generating on the wires. I'm using an old Harley Davidson Ignition switch.
Mr. Smith
Put 5 neutral plates between you positive and negative. 5 plates with give you 2-2.3 volts and that enough to make gas and help control the heat. A PWM will keep the heat down and give you more gas, I'm trying to get some made now. 1/2 tsp per gallon is enough baking soda, a 1/4 cup of vinegar will keep the plates clean.
Latr
Bagrman
Will be interesting to see how the heat goes! After much screwing around and testing over the past months I finally decided on the best plate config on Saterday! Built a new cell with 75mm x 120mm x.9 plates 316 SS and used the +nnn-nnn+ config. Drove it to work this morning........stayed really cool. I think I am finally going to stick with this one. It gives nice production with little heat on Sodium Hydroxide without a PWM, which by the way we tried and were not happy with!
I'm getting plenty of HHO but I've got to make some changes AGAIN...
I think I got overheated because I've got my setup done the following way. I went for high Gas production regardless of Amp draw.
4 arrays of 16 plates total.
pos, neg, neg, pos
pos, neg, neg, pos
pos, neg, neg, pos
pos, neg, neg, pos
No Neutral Plates.
I'll go back and re-configure my plates because I'm really concerned about overheating... I'm not popping fuses... I'm melting them. They literally melt and fall out. I also had some wires get hot enough to melt to each other. This really surprised me because I thought the fuse would blow before the wires melted.
Mr. Smith
Question... on your diagram above, does each symbol stand for a single plate? Or are you using Plate pairs separated/connected by washers?Originally Posted by Ronjinsan
PosPos NeuNeu NeuNeu NegNeg NeuNeu NeuNeu PosPos = 14 plates
Or
Pos Neu Neu Neg Neu Neu Pos = 7 plates
Mr. Smith
Kewl go for less plates and add neutrals....at least 3, I had 2 for a long time but eventually got better proudtion with 3. My old config was +NN-NN+ Like yours but it was still pretty warm at times specially on hot days and even with active cooling. Now I run +NNN-NNN+ it works!
Is this photo indicitative of your plates or do you use 3 single neutral plates in between your pos - neg for a total of 9 pieces of stainless steel plate? AND... are your neutral plates joined by metal or are they not. Do you have a photo?
Mr. Smith
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