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Thread: How do alternators handle HHO?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    The Rockies
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    201

    How do alternators handle HHO?

    I'm curious about any experiences anyone has had with their alternators. A lot of the sceptics I heard from say that your alternator will be fried if you use enough electricity to make an HHO generator actually produce anything. How have your alternators been holding up with adding HHO to their load?
    Give a man a match, and he’ll be warm for a minute, but set him on fire, and he’ll be warm for the rest of his life.

    2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 3.8L SII S/C'd
    15%-20% MPG increase at 1.5 Amps
    2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L V8
    No gains.

  2. #2
    snapper1d Guest
    They started putting alternaters on cars when I was in mechanics school.Well I guess that tells about how old I am.They put out from 12v to 13.8 at idle.Some a little mor.When they reach a certain rpm they crank out 15v on a perfect one or they are supposed to anyway.I have never seen one that has fried from pulling to many amps.I am not saying they wont.Just I have not seen one or heard of one doing it.They tend to go up to top output and will hold that.The regulators are what regulate the output.From what I have seen the regulators hold them back.I guess if a regulator was to short on an altenater it could fry but they usually quit and you lose output.Mostly they just tend to go out from bearing wear,diode going out or brushes wearing out.There is a guy that comes in my brothers store that has rebuilt altenaters gfor a living for many many years and I will ask him when I see him.

  3. #3
    HYDROTEKPRO Guest
    As electrolyzer is run, it warms up from the electrolysis occurring inside. As it warms up, it draws more current (amperage), and produces more oxyhydrogen gas. The temperature increase improves the conductivity of the electrolyte, and as a result, the electrolyzer draws more amperage, and as a result of that, it produces yet even more HHO. This is the normal cycle inside an electrolyzer. There are ways to limit the temperature, the heat, or the current (amperage draw, not the volts). This can be done with weak electrolyte for example, but you give up some HHO production until your electrolyzer gets warmed up. Pulse Width Modulators (PWM units) are said to regulate the current, but they do some neat little tricks above and beyond that. That's another huge discussion all by itself.

    Alternators produce their 13.8 volts DC at whatever amperage is needed by the car and it's accessories, on demand, as needed. This is regulated by the regulator. Most vehicles have alternators with an amperage rating, such as 120amps, for example. This is what the alternator can deliver, and it usually delivers less than that, because it's only delivering what's needed, when needed.

    Critics say anything they can dream up, partially true, completely false, whatever, against this new, up and coming technology.

    The question of over-taxing an alternator is an excellent one. Exactly WHAT is too much, for any given alternator. Part of this depends on the available amperage from your alternator, vs. the amperage draw of your electrolyzer, and other accessories and components in your vehicle.

    Seems to me that if you've got 20, 30, 40 or whatever usually available amps from your alternator, that aren't being used, and now you're using them with the electrolyzer, shouldn't be a problem. But consult a few alternator experts before making your own decision about this. One thing we have noticed during our testing is that in many vehicles, extra draw on an alternator (such as that of an electrolyzer), increases the load on the engine (depending on the amperage draw of that electrolyzer). This is because the alternator goes into a "harder working mode", and the engine changes it's idle tone from a "free idle" to a "idle under load". This is just like when the car is idling nice and easy, and you turn on the air-conditioner. When you turn on the air-conditioner at idle, the engine now has a new load, and the sound of the idle changes, and you can hear that change.

    Not to be too long winded here, but intending to be of help to new HHO peoples, consult a few different alternator experts. This is because you want to weed out the opinion of the dishonest guy just looking to make a sale, whether you need a new alternator or not. Some guys will look you straight in the face, and tell you a lie, tell you that you need the bla-de-bla blinker fluid, becuase their business sucks, because they are dishonest. As a result they become desparate for customers. Common knowledge for most here, but good to be aware of for the chicks and newbies. Also good to ask a few different people because some people just don't know, and they SHOULD know, it's their friggin' job ferchrissakes. You don't know how often we talk to somebody about this stainless steel, or that bla-de-bla, after having done a little bit of internet research, and they don't know WTF! What's the melting point of your 316L?? "DUH, well," and they change the subject. Do a quick GOOGLE and look for yourself. Person is selling steel, they should know the melting point, right? Alot of these people (not everybody of course) are just plain stupid, yet they assert this superiority attitude when talking to you, you know? Just pisses me off when I ask a so called "expert" something, and they know less than I do about something which is their damn job. BLA-BLA-BLA, okay, I'm done venting, thanks.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    The Rockies
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    Feel better?

    I understand completely. I HATE that as well. I would like to know if there's a way to know what your alternator is rated for in terms of amperage and then what kind of draw is on it at a given time. For example, you could have your generator on, the A/C on, the radio on, the headlights on, etc, and see how hard your alternator is working.

    Has anyone on this forum actually had first hand experience with an alternator going out prematurely after putting an HHO generator on your car? I know that alternators will go out prematurely on their own sometimes, but I'm curious to know if anyone has themselves, or knows anyone who has had any problems related with HHO draw.
    Give a man a match, and he’ll be warm for a minute, but set him on fire, and he’ll be warm for the rest of his life.

    2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 3.8L SII S/C'd
    15%-20% MPG increase at 1.5 Amps
    2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L V8
    No gains.

  5. #5
    Smith03Jetta Guest
    You can go to Autozone.com or another similar auto parts store online and look up a replacement alternator for your car. I looked up mine and it is rated for 90 amps. I'm pretty sure I am not pulling nearly that number right now. If I was it would not be long before I ran my battery down or my lights would dim considerably when running 16 amps HHO at night. No problems so far.

    I disconnected my Daytime Running lights to save me 5 amps so I'm only netting 11 amps.

    To keep my car battery in top condition once a month I plug it into a battery charger overnight to top off the charge.

  6. #6
    HYDROTEKPRO Guest
    So what's the deal? Is this like worrying about blinker fluid?

  7. #7
    porkchop Guest
    Mine is a 90 amp also. I don't know what the Jeep pulls when stuff is running, but I asked the manager at Advance Auto ( he is really good with cars, not just a flunkie from the streets) and he said it should be fine. I'm pulling between 10 -15 amps on the gen.

  8. #8
    HYDROTEKPRO Guest
    So who knows exactly about this?

  9. #9
    Jaxom Guest
    This is my bread and butter. I support my family on automotive repair.

    Increasing the load on the electrical system can fry the alternator, but an HHO generator isn't going to do it unless it takes up half your trunk and draws an outrageous amount of current. Alternators are rated for a certain current output, but that rating is the max it can put out AND STILL CHARGE THE BATTERY. Once you break the rated amperage draw, the alternator still puts out, just at a reduced voltage level. The more current you pull, the lower the voltage gets, until it drops below battery voltage. At this time the battery will start to discharge, your lights will get dim, and eventually the car will die.

    It's important to keep in mind the fact that at lower RPM's the alternator has a harder time keeping up. Therefore, if you're going to have this type of problem, it's far more likely to occur driving around town in stop-and-go traffic than on the open road doing 70mph.

    Snapper is right about alternators. The windings hardly ever cause a problem. 98% of alternator failures are due to bad diodes in the rectifier bridge, or bad shaft bearings. The diodes can be burned out by an overcurrent condition, (they get hotter the more current you pull through them,) but the aluminum alternator case doubles as a heat-sink for the diodes so they can handle a lot.

  10. #10
    HYDROTEKPRO Guest
    This is great, a knowledgeable, qualified answer!

    The alternator has to keep the battery charged, make current for the engine, all of the car accessories like the lights, stereo, power windows, power this and that, and still have the capacity to make more current.

    So let's say for example, a car has a 100 amp alternator stock. What amperage HHO system would be the max, that you'd put in that car, knowing that the 100 amp alternator could comfortably handle the load without reducing the lifespan of that alternator or it's associated electrical components??

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