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Thread: Advance Timing Controls

  1. #1
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    Advance Timing Controls

    Anyone using timing controls to advance the ignition for better fuel economy?
    03 Ford Focus 2.0 MTX mpg 32-37 summer. 30-32 winter w/o hho
    Jesus saves.

  2. #2
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    With HHO, you want to RETARD, not advance the timing.
    The introduction of Hydroxy results in a much quicker burn rate.
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  3. #3
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    It seems most anti-knocks sensors handles the retarding.
    When you're one step ahead of the crowd you're a genius.
    When you're two steps ahead, you're a crackpot."

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by lhazleton View Post
    With HHO, you want to RETARD, not advance the timing.
    The introduction of Hydroxy results in a much quicker burn rate.
    My understanding Top Dead Center is the point of full compression before power stroke, and the time it takes for gasoline to burn/combust you need to RETARD the ignition 20 degrees before TDC (set from the factory) so the explosion(force of the gasoline) is on the down stroke. Now when you add HHO it speeds up the burn rate and you then need to ADVANCE the timing toward TDC. (instead of being say 20 degree its now 15, 10 or 5 degrees before TDC, depending on amount of HHO)
    03 Ford Focus 2.0 MTX mpg 32-37 summer. 30-32 winter w/o hho
    Jesus saves.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bergs23 View Post
    you need to RETARD the ignition 20 degrees before TDC

    and you then need to ADVANCE the timing toward TDC.
    Yes your thought is correct, but the names you are using are backwards.

    Moving timing further before TDC is Advancing. ( from 20 too 30 BTDC)
    Moving timing closer to TDC or even after TDC is retarding ( from 20 too 10 BTDC)
    When you're one step ahead of the crowd you're a genius.
    When you're two steps ahead, you're a crackpot."

  6. #6
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    Can we all just agree that retarding it will make it fire later and advancing it will make it fire earlier? TDC is only the reference for the degrees it needs to be at. It's either before or after TDC.
    I'll hang up and listen to your answer.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by N11634 View Post
    Can we all just agree that retarding it will make it fire later and advancing it will make it fire earlier? TDC is only the reference for the degrees it needs to be at. It's either before or after TDC.
    Thank-you. At least someone gets it!
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  8. #8
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    I practically grew up in a service station.
    I'll hang up and listen to your answer.

  9. #9
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    LOL I think I've got it now Thanks all!
    03 Ford Focus 2.0 MTX mpg 32-37 summer. 30-32 winter w/o hho
    Jesus saves.

  10. #10
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    Bradenton, Florida
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    So how many degrees change is a good starting point?
    1991 Plymouth Acclaim 3L V6.
    1 dry cells with nineteen 6"x8" 316L ss plates, driven by constant current PWM set at 35 amps (13.3V at PWM). 28% KOH electrolyte. Total measured output 2.5 lpm. Mileage went from 18 to 26 mpg, all city driving (44% increase). EFIE set at .370 and I still need to play with ignition timing.

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