65mpg from 30mpg stock. Wow, that's more than impressive... that's amazing... and from just 5lpm!
From the first photo, it rather looks like your reservoir doubles as a bubbler. So how much current are you drawing through your electrolyser? Do you employ any form of current control, or over-heating cut-out?
You say above, 'dry gas is produced, not used'? Is this a typo... What do you mean?
Yes, the water falls and the gas is sucked into the air box. Less than 2 amps or 120 miliamps dca, so not much. No current controls, I get 13,11,8,5,2 volts from outside to inside the stepdown is due to the spacers. No problem with heat because the design allows heat to escape. Their (r/d at better world technologies or bwt) first design was a closed box with a see tube using koh and they had many heat, foam and amp issues. Varying amp levels for engine size and all that. The cell/resevoir gets warm but not too hot to touch. I mean produced because the gas is what is coming out of the resevoir like a thin flame which is then used by the engine of course.
However, it is clear that your gas will not be a dry gas, because as you say with the top off the reservoir you get a 2ft high mist. That mist is water condensing, so unless you remove that water with a chemical dryer somewhere before the engine, your gas is very wet.
It looks very dry and I suppose the air filter could act as a filter but it's above the input hole, so it probably doesn't since the vacuum is very strong. It's not a misty feel, however when I grab the tailpipe I do get water drops. I was thinking about putting the input under the throttle body, however probably wouldn't make much difference.
What do you mean when you say you have a vapoursier on the fuel line... on the regular fuel line? The regular fuel should enter the engine as a vapour anyway, that's what a carb or injectors do as the liquid does not burn. Are you heating up the fuel line to help evaporation of the liquid fuel?
The magnetic vaporizer is wrapped on the heater hose and the fuel line is attached to both ends. The new catalyst crackers are filled with 7 catalysts and inserted in the heater hose with the fuel lines secured on top. They both essentially break the gas molecule into smaller parts like a log into wood chips for a more complete burn. This is like a mini refinery to treat the fuel prior to ignition. You can see a better explaination on my site and pictures of the various types for different hp ratings. Now they suggest the vaporizer for carburetors and the cat cracker for injection.
With all due respect to you, to those people that have played around with this stuff for a good while, you sound more like a sales person than a technician. And at the end of the day, irrelevant of what electrolytic compound you employ, it all comes down to the current flowing through the cell and hence obeys Faraday's laws of electrolysis. An electrolyte does not create current flow, it simply creates a path for more or less current to flow between the electrodes - your electrolyte will be no different.
Yes, I am sales I had my mechanic install the vaporizer, do the electrical and run the vacuum tube to the air box. I installed the cell, mounted it to the plexiglass. I like it better in the trunk because it's cleaner and since there was no room, it was the only option. I'm going from what the r/d boys tell me about the NCE acting as a catalyst. I'm not sure if it's h2o2, or naoh in some sort of liquid form. It looks/feels thicker than water but smooth, nothing suspended or floating around, it's pure. It dries around the cap crusty/salty, has to be a salt base. It has no smell but it's much better than my first mix of baking soda and h2o2. I cleaned all that crap out with apple cider vinegar and then flushed it.
You will understand why folk will be so sceptical when most do not even see a 20% increase in fuel economy, and yet you are boasting over a 100%... and from what appears to be a tiny electrolyser!
Yes, it's natural to be skeptical and I expect to prove what I say with repeatable results not just words that is why there is a 30 day guarantee on all products and 60 for the catalyst crackers. My progression was 30 stock, added the vaporizer for another 10 mpg hwy, added the hho cell for 15 mpg hwy so it was 50 to 55 hwy until I found the volo chip 5/19/2011 which gave me another 10 to 20% which was around 10 mpg hwy. However, all this still means I'm spending $10 to $15 a day in gas as I travel 100 to 200 miles.
The test I use for hwy is this, fill up to where the pump clicks off then drive 25 miles at least and turn around. Return to the same pump and fill unitl it clicks. Last test used .9 gals and went 60 miles = 66 mpg approx. This is the ideal mpg. Combined city/hwy is 40 mpg.
Step #2 is the PICC (pre ignition cat converter) will turn liquid fuel into plasma vapor and will make the 100 mpg mark city/hwy.
http://bwt.jeffotto.com/pre-ignition...-converter.htm
and
http://bwt.jeffotto.com/picc-introduced.htm
This was supposed to be released in 2009 but the FTC sued bwt to prove the 50% increase guarantee which they did, but it cost a few million.
I have a trucker in california waiting for the EO# for carb who has 40 trucks he would like to retrofit. Whenever california figures out their budget mess.
I'd rather just use hho if I could figure out what these guys did...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Py8QY...43C6F56550FB4B
Very interesting 15 minutes. Probably spent more than $1500, another alternator, battery, electronics, guages etc etc!
When using an electrolyte, I use anhydrous Na2SO4 as this is quite user friendly, but gram for gram KOH is the most efficient. So whatever you use, gram for gram it won't ionise in water as readily as KOH. Not that this really matters.
Originally Posted by Farrahday
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