HHO installation company

[Boosters]

IM, well I just got all the parts (hardware that is) for my first booster design. just 4" pvc cap - little pipe - spacer - thread socket - pvc socket to brass screw - pressure gauge - gas valve - hose connection. Im going to start assembling it today. When I get it put together I want to test standard electrolysis vs. resonance electrolysis with psi per minute which should be easily converted to Lpm.

One question.. Can I just solder the wires and epoxy around them to the electrodes to keep them away from the mix, or do I have to tap them with SST screws? They are tube electrodes, I plan on letting the outer set of tubes sit higher then the inner set to make it easy to connect wires without effecting the HHO production as much. I will do different amounts of tube sets with each method and document the results. I will post pictures when I finish building something recognizable, and data when I'm finish doing some tests.

About the video, I see why you would have doubts about this resonance electrolysis... He looked rather upset about investing money in something that he couldn't get to work. If I didn't have pretty much all the electronic components and measuring equipment to complete this project I probably wouldn't do it at this point, but since I have all the material I need I my as well give it a go. Of coarse if I do find something substantial I will make a video and post it, If I can figure out how to... never posted on youtube yet. If it doesn't work I will try better tubes (not the best quality and not tuned to resonate at the same frequency). Again thanks for the info and for trying to keep me from wasting my time, I wont say you didn't try.

[Boosters]

Just an update about my prototype booster. SST is hard to cut! but Im almost finished. maybe I should get a band saw... well just need to hook up the electrodes, wire them, build a test circuit, and do some testing. I attached some pics for you guys to look at, okay so far?

[Drafty-01]

Hi Boosters,
There's a bit of a knack to cutting and machining stainless steel. It work-hardens on the surface that is machined/cut/worked, so the idea is to use a ton of cutting pressure to get the cutting edge under the work-hardened surface. As much as the saw or drill can handle basically. Your tools will not burn out if you don't go too fast and use a coolant/lube.

I'm building a "dry cell", as I couldn't be bothered with the wet cell. This seems to be a progression a lot of people have made. Many, many refinements have been made by members here on various designs of cell.

Another point to note is the electronics of different vehicles tends to vary, which really challenges the mind a bit - or so I've read. A good idea, I've read, is to use a PWM to limit the current to your cell, as the out put is more controllable and faster from the get go. Then there's the EFIE - another essential device to made heaps of difference to the mileage.

Good luck,
Drafty.

[Boosters]

Hey Drafty,

Ive come to the conclusion that using a saw tool is not the way to go with tubes. there are tools specially made to cut tube, they are mostly used for cutting copper plumbing pipe. I found one at the local hardware store that claims that it works on stainless steel so if i bust it, ill just return it. I tried it and it makes a perfectly smooth and level cut. I just don't think there is a better way to get it done.

For my prototype I think I will start with a wet cell... One thing that doesn't make sense to me with dry cells is you still need a water/collection chamber besides the safety bubbler(s) right? so if you need to have a whole other unit what are you gaining by doing a dry cell vs. wet cell?

As for the electronics and tuning the output amount of HHO to the engine size and demand/load, I am thinking about working with Volo Performance. http://yhst-19807630266082.stores.yahoo.net/ as a distributor. There chips are legal through the EPA and they do a lot more then just O2 sensor. If you buy blanks in bulk to program they drop to as little as $50 a unit, which is worth the price for legality in my mind.

[Boosters]

Did my first air pressure test. Used a Kirby in reverse as an air pump and sprayed soapy water an the entire unit. well it made a good bubbler... The PVC cement joints had no bubbles, it was the JB weld to PVC joints.. apparently JB weld doesn't stick to PVC under pressure, even on joints that I scored The JB weld broke right off. So I took apart all the joints with JB weld and will be using PL sealants instead. DIY boat builders use it so it must perform well.

I have a new design idea for a double coil cell (with stainless steel foil) sealed on the ends and water intake in the middle. Ill probably feed water through it with a pump and tilt the spiral up so hydroxy doesn't build up in the gaps. I'm thinking of using 3m 2 sided mounting tape for the spacing, I'm not sure if it will hold the foil in place permanently so I will be using PL sealant on the edges and have some kind of support structure so the SST foil doesn't collapse and short. Ive included a draft picture for your viewing pleasure. Any ideas to add?