Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: a solution to the ecu problem

  1. #1

    a solution to the ecu problem

    we are all aware that the ecu is a major problem for someone trying to have a vehicle that gets healthy mileage. when we add our hho equipment, some of us get medium gains for a while, some get small gains, or even big ones till the ecu says "now im gonna show u who is boss" and no more gains.

    so i'm wondering...

    now this may NOT be for everyone, but i realized there are many low-mileage vehicles for sale on ebay from the 80's that are carb'd. isn't it possible to disable the electronics on those vehicles, and physically gain access to the carburetor jets?
    2. if this does not work, there are low-mileage vehicles available on ebay from the '70s that have no electronics. many have a/c and are in very nice shape. no electronics. just plain old carb.
    wouldn't the biggest and most permenant gains come on these type of vehicles?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    San Diego, California.
    Posts
    337

    Yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by fixityourslfer View Post
    we are all aware that the ecu is a major problem for someone trying to have a vehicle that gets healthy mileage. when we add our hho equipment, some of us get medium gains for a while, some get small gains, or even big ones till the ecu says "now im gonna show u who is boss" and no more gains.

    so i'm wondering...

    now this may NOT be for everyone, but i realized there are many low-mileage vehicles for sale on ebay from the 80's that are carb'd. isn't it possible to disable the electronics on those vehicles, and physically gain access to the carburetor jets?
    2. if this does not work, there are low-mileage vehicles available on ebay from the '70s that have no electronics. many have a/c and are in very nice shape. no electronics. just plain old carb.
    wouldn't the biggest and most permenant gains come on these type of vehicles?
    Your logic is impeccable and should be pursued.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Kennedy N.Y.
    Posts
    141
    And, don't for get the "DIESELS" out there. I can't vouch for them yet, but will soon do an install on an 85 BMW 524td, 2.4L I 6 Turbo Diesel. Diesels come in Cars too.
    BUT, from what I've gathered, Diesels Like HHO More so than Gas Engines.
    96 E-250 4.9L, 100,000 Miles.
    12.5 MPG Befor HHO
    16.5 (Best) after HHO.
    Modified Smack Gen I Cell.

    85 BMW 524TD
    26-32MPH
    HHO Coming soon

    A TOOL Is only as GOOD as it's operator. If the Operator DON'T KNOW How to work it, The TOOL WON'T WORK

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    266
    Quote Originally Posted by fixityourslfer View Post
    we are all aware that the ecu is a major problem for someone trying to have a vehicle that gets healthy mileage. when we add our hho equipment, some of us get medium gains for a while, some get small gains, or even big ones till the ecu says "now im gonna show u who is boss" and no more gains.

    so i'm wondering...

    now this may NOT be for everyone, but i realized there are many low-mileage vehicles for sale on ebay from the 80's that are carb'd. isn't it possible to disable the electronics on those vehicles, and physically gain access to the carburetor jets?
    2. if this does not work, there are low-mileage vehicles available on ebay from the '70s that have no electronics. many have a/c and are in very nice shape. no electronics. just plain old carb.
    wouldn't the biggest and most permenant gains come on these type of vehicles?
    A carbureted pre ECU car is definitely the simplest HHO conversion. My previous installation was on a 1974 VW Beetle. No computer, no O2 sensors, o fuel injectors...just an enjine & a carb. The car consistently did an average of 23 mpg. With a wet cell, a bubbler, and a flashback protector ported to the low vacuum inlet in the intake manifold just under the carb, my mileage increased to over 30. The downside is driving a 35 year old car is impractical for day to day activity. So we push on to "control" the ever irritating ECU in today's cars.
    RC makes an excellent point, diesel cars. If I were to do a diesel I would look for a 70's Mercedes Benz. If there are any cars on the road that can be used as daily drivers it a Benz. I had a 1964 220Seb which drove better & more comfortable than my new (at the time 1986 Olds 98).
    So it's not a matter of proving HHO works, it's a matter of what you will use the application for.
    Good luck
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Andy
    HHOSportTrac
    21 Plate 3" X 7" KOH Dry Cell

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Armpit of TN
    Posts
    9
    Yeah, and diesels too, although IMO no diesel should be without a turbo. Non-turbo diesels are horrible at acceleration, and you'll miss your gas car no matter how conservative of a driver you are. With an old diesel, you can also experiment with manufacturing your own fuel- so more of a bonus!!

    On a side note, don't get too old. Safety is greatly improved in newer vehicles. Yeah the old cars were harder steel, but that just transfers more of the impact to the driver. If you go back to the 60's, you run into things like 4 wheel drum brakes, metal interior hardware (window cranks that rip your arm apart), and my favorite- the non-collapsible steering column that will put a hole the size of a beer can through you in an offset collision. In the 70's, do your research on disc brake designs so you can find that that you can readily and cheaply purchase parts like calipers for. There was a lot of experimentation, and some horrible failures during this time. It would be good to familiarize yourself before purchasing because you'll be able to spot vehicles that have already had conversions done to the front brakes allowing later model braking like from the 80's or late 70's after it was figured out.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    2
    Hi'
    A simple way to boost o2 sensor voltage would be to use a 1.5 volt AA battery. A 10k resistor and 5k pot in series with the battery. battery - to outer leg of pot, center and other outer leg tied together to the 10k, 10k to switch, switch to bat. + . O2 sig. to bat. - . Output would be connection
    pt. Btw. pot and 10k resistor. This would give btw. 0 and .5+ volts to the o2 signal to the ecm. The battery draw max is 1.5milliamp. 1.5v / 1000ohms =
    1.5miliamp
    Typical aa alkiline capacity is 1700 to 2500 milliamp hour.so you could
    run it for over 100 hours at least.
    Worth a thought.
    thanks, Pete.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    23
    For around $250 you can have full control of every aspect of your fuel injectors,fuel mixture, and timing.

    http://www.megasquirt.info/

    this link makes it sound really complicated, but basically you install it and hook it to a laptop and can control everything, or buy the add on controller to control it from the car.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by yellowsnow View Post
    For around $250 you can have full control of every aspect of your fuel injectors,fuel mixture, and timing.

    http://www.megasquirt.info/

    this link makes it sound really complicated, but basically you install it and hook it to a laptop and can control everything, or buy the add on controller to control it from the car.
    bingo! we have a winner! or get one of the myriad of piggy back system that are designed to work with the stock ecu. make the ecu work with you not against you.
    hang loose,

    charlie

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,418
    Yellowsnow (that name bothers me but that's off topic) have you had any first hand experience with the Mega Squirt or know some one that has. I was told it is geared to racing and not to lean burn scenarios. I could be wrong but would like first hand confirmation on that. Thank you Sir.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by myoldyourgold View Post
    Yellowsnow (that name bothers me but that's off topic) have you had any first hand experience with the Mega Squirt or know some one that has. I was told it is geared to racing and not to lean burn scenarios. I could be wrong but would like first hand confirmation on that. Thank you Sir.
    megasquirt will do what ever you can come up with. it's one of the best systems on the market. you're best bet is to take it to a dyno shop and have them set the tune on the car to run as lean as possible and not get detonation. however it will be tricky since as of yet no one has linked the pwm to the motor/ecu. to really see results you will need to have the pwm scale power off of the reactor to what the motor is requiring since you can use more hho at higher throttle applications and scale back demand on the alternator at idle or part throttle periods.
    hang loose,

    charlie

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •