What kind of cell is the right one for me?

[zilex]

I just went through some topics on fuel-saver forum and I came across with the thread where you asked the exact same question I have http://goo.gl/3bqi and I guess it would then be best to get that quad digital EFIE as he stated since I don't see that they offer single digital version yet

[knovos]

I just ordered this EFI http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/store/a...-circuit-board Seems like the most simplest version on the market. I could pay with PayPal and the shipping costs are not that high. When I see the instructions it must not be that hard to install it in my astra. No overkill in functionality just what i want.

[zilex]

I don't know but I guess you haven't noticed that I've sent you a pm
Great, looking forward to seeing your results with EFIE onboard, please keep us informed

[Amazing1]

You're going in the right direction, but the unit on that website uses 4 neutral plates per stack. Not a good idea, as they run hot & produce steam because they run 2.76 vdc per cell (kinda high). 5 neutrals will run 2.3 volts, and 6 neutrals will run at 1.97 volts (this is the best setup in my opinion).

If you're planning on building your own reactor, I would try this setup first: (-NNNNN+). You can always expand.........

MY QUESTION: In building the -NNNN+ plate setup, do you allow each of the Negative plates to ground to one another, or specifically keep them floating, or separate. And if this is a good starting point, does anyone think that a +NN-NN+ or a -NN+NN- configuration would produce more good gas, all other things being equal.

Please chime in...

[rcflyn]

MY QUESTION: In building the -NNNN+ plate setup, do you allow each of the Negative plates to ground to one another, or specifically keep them floating, or separate. And if this is a good starting point, does anyone think that a +NN-NN+ or a -NN+NN- configuration would produce more good gas, all other things being equal.

Please chime in...

In YOUR Example, I'm only Seeing ONE "-" Plate. so how would you ground them together or seperately? there's only ONE "-" plate???... however, if you're talking about making MORE than one stack, then Yes, ground the "-" together...
And, don't bother with 2 "N" Plates... you're wasting Voltage, creating Heat, and getting nowhere... Keep it to 5 "N"s. if not more... the More "N" plates, the less voltage per gap, the less heat, the more efficient, the better off you'll be... I run 6 "N" plates... Some have been experimenting with 7 "N", and even 8 "N"... Do some more reading in here, you'll discover the benifits and drawbacks of "N" plates, too many or not enough...

[knovos]

I received my EFI and installed it in my car like the this



I have really no idea what kind of voltage I must set so I will start with 0.28 volt for the output of the EFI and give it a try. I will be back with results.

Opel Astra 1.6i
build 1992
HHO dry cell output 1 lpm
1 wire sensor
output setting EFI 0.28 volt
reading with a standard multimeter between the green and the white wire from the EFI

Leon.

[knovos]

Finally some results after all does weeks of building and testing.
Mileage without hho unit 1 liter 14.3 kilometers
With HHO unit Output EFI 0.28volt 1liter gasoline 17.5 kilometers (47.05MPG)
With HHO unit Output EFI 0.42volt 1liter gasoline 22.1 kilometers (52.27MPG) +35.2%
With HHO unit Output EFI 0.51volt 1liter gasoline 17.5 kilometers (47.05MPG)

Cranking up the voltage output from the EFI will bounce on a limit what I understand out of these numbers. I go back to the 0.42 setting and put a little more to find the max. See what coming out this week when I do my normal 'go to work' trips.

Leon

[zilex]

wow, great to hear that man, finally some results..
Please keep us informed as you progress with your testings..

[Randohr]

I'm running parallel plates; as many as I can fit into a 3" pvc pipe. I mount the tubes horizontally so that the bubbles do not "back up" on the plates and cause etching and heat. My spacing is wider than what I read posted here. I add KOH until the conductivity is minimum, then add some more so I don't have to mess with it for a while. I divide the voltage before the cell so that the voltage applied to the cells is approx. 3-4vdc. Current is generally around 15-20 amps depending on the build. Since it is a series circuit, and current is what produces HHO, the max current is applied to all components by design. I have no over-heating issues or thermal runaway. Actually, I have a lack-o-heat issue. Using an inline rotometer style flow gage(biased for HHO per the supplier), my LPM is approx. .8. My engine tuning/mods are simple: Efie's on all O2 sensors, Diode in series with MAP sensor supply voltage (drop .7 v), toggle switch controlled air and water sensor bias resistors. Toggle eliminated cold starts. I am saving money on gas. Mission accomplished.

[myoldyourgold]

I mount the tubes horizontally so that the bubbles do not "back up" on the plates and cause etching and heat.

Where do you place your gas exit on the 3 inch tube? (center, end, more than one, ??) How long are your plates and tube? Do you know what pressure you are running your system at? Last but not least can you post a picture of your setup? You might want to lower the voltage a tad(2v) so your plates will last longer and you will not be polluting the electrolyte with CR VI. Keep up the good work and it sounds like it is paying you back.