Negitive Results Chevy 2006 Silverado

[Stevo]

Wonderful reading. It seems everyone is involved with "zero" voltage leakage (no holes) cell design this days. I've started one several months back but with me traveling a great deal it's on hold for now. My question to everyone is: are you focusing on a specific application? I've been scaling down the size of my cell to install in any vehicle without worrying about space to install it...

I am targeting 1 - 1.5 LPM @ approximately 8-12.5-ish amps. My car is a 2.0L Boxer engine, so hopefully that amount will be sufficient considering it is also turbocharged. I have complete control over my tune whether it be via my Cobb AP or open source, so that's pretty much taken care of. I am focusing solely on application for this size engine with setup mounted in the trunk. I am also seriously considering adding in WVI if possible. I haven't come down to the point where I go experimenting with the turbo inlet hose to find the appropriate venturi fitting (if one exists). Hopefully, I can get the supposedly "impossible" 1L / 10A or less efficiency out of this setup. We'll see. I mean hell the Punch 4.0 *supposedly* produces 1LPM @ ~8-10A. I'd like to see some proof to back that up though as the design seems to leak prone to actually work those numbers. If for some reason this unit actually does do what it claims efficiency wise, it would seem that my build would do a lot better.

Seems like everyone is trying to horde information at times and the painful fact is every design I have seen is simply evolutionary, not revolutionary.

[Stevo]

Now that I got a small portion of the motorcycle community interested in HOD, not for mileage gain (although 25-30% is easily obtained) but for the perfomance. the new focus for me is make the cell as small as posible and still produce 1 lpm for most of the newer V-Twin like my 07 Ultra.

The only thing I find with "no holes" design is, it gets bulky and too many additional material. Just far, my 3" X 5.5" is going to be the standard size, even for the home heater system.

On another note: my 2009 F-150 just hit 22K miles, just my curiosity I took the cells apart to check on the plate condition. Just light brown coloring and surface slime but rubbed off easily. Aside from that noted nothing to concern.

That's very interesting. I bet you have encountered quite a few naysayers in the process too. My neighbor was a naysayer in the beginning. After working with me for a while and doing some tests on his Chevy 305 he changed his tune. We are doing an install pretty soon on that truck then another one on my car with the new cell design. Yeh I am using 1/4" spacing on my new design for a couple of reasons so that may be the biggest downfall in terms of space, but... Seeing as how you want to do this on a bike. Couldn't you try something like this?



(See attachment)

That way you can split the space required possibly helping fitment? Then just use black wire loom to conceal/protect the silicone gas and water hoses. Just a thought. Oh BTW the arrow going across is a wire that connects the two cells so each gets ~6.5 volts or so.

[jwhhopower1978]

Hello,

I have been working this HHO thing for a long time (7,000 or so miles) and have not had any positive results. I put about 35k miles per year so it does not take long to do my testing.

I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado 5.3L gas with 125,000 miles.
Purchased a single cell generator from HydroClubUSA.
I added a second reservoir between the bubbler and the intake to capture any liquids before they go into the intake.
Purchased my KOH electrolyte from www.essentialdepot.com.
At 1.5 oz of KOH is about 12 amps and produces about 1 liter of gas in 80 seconds. So I know the HHO generator is producing something.
Since I use this truck for work, I have logged every tank of gas, with average speed and miles per gallon. Before I purchased my HHO stuff, the life time average of the truck is 16.23 miles per gallon. Average gas mileage for highway speeds is a around 18.1 MPG. Do a lot of highway driving.

1. Round one of testing.
Gas millage dramatically decreased when using the generator. Used anywhere from 1 oz - 2.5 oz of KOH per quart of distilled water. Did about 3,400 miles of testing.

2. Round two of testing.
Read more about HHO and discovered on new car the computer will compensate for the extra oxygen produced from the HHO Generator and will dump more gasoline. Thus lower millage.
So I purchased the FS2-HHO Performance chip from Volo. Absolutely no difference. Did about 2,800 miles of testing.

3. Round three of testing. Someone mentioned that my spark plugs most likely need to be change and they suggested PulseStar. I bought them turned off the HHO generator to get a new base line MPG. Did about 1,500 miles of testing. Wow! never got 20MPG before on the highway. I think these things really work.

4. Round four of testing.
Cleaned the HHO generator, started with 1.5 oz of KOH per quart of distilled water. Turned it back on, drove about 200 miles to get the generator stable, reset the FS2-HHO chip. 1,000 miles later, still no positive results.


HHO generators seems logical, but does this really work????? I see all kinds of reports of how great this is, but never have seen anyone in person that has a generator. Can not find any on-line information of anyone that has done it on a Chevy/GM with the same year and type of engine.

Any thoughts would greatly be appreciated.

Have a great day!

Hi.

First off, you have a big engine 5.3L so the hhogenerator needs to put out COOL CLEAN MONOTON hhogas at least 3LPM. ITs easy to make hhogas, but is harder to produce quality hhogas. So for this to work and increase milage you need a complete high quality on-demand hho system..

Efficiant hho generator whit multiply series cells large electrode surface to keep the heat down (personally i find 5N to work best) and that put out at least 4.5-5 mmw whitout circulationpump..


And also put in efficiant 1GPM 2-3amp max circulationpump (if your cell is compatible whit one) what will help cool your system down and rise your mmw.

Tank/bubbler (of cource) + Gasdryer system thats cleans up the hhogas from watervapor, electrolyte and brings up the quality of the hhogas. Clean hhogas will show better results.

Its very imporant to have a constant current PWM system, These systems allows you to tune in the exaktly right amount of current were your engine recives the highes increase in MPG, and hold that current amount indepentent of % electrolyt or systems operation temperature. These system also keeps your system more efficitant and cool.

And of cource the importantce of O2 EFIE controlls on oxygen (lambda) sensor type engines, they need to be a fine tune intruments so you can tune in the right values for your engine. I personaly like the digital versions best whit LCD screen so you esay can see your values when you are tuning in your hho system.

So you understand that there are many variables that needs to be right or less you will not se eny good results.

It is important to have the right products to make it work.. Try to find more serius manufactures of quality ondemand hho systems.

If you have more questions let it come.. JW

Sorry for the bad gramma, Swedish guy behind the typo

[lhazleton]

Stevo,
I looked at your attachment; interesting! So what you're doing is running 2 individual 4 cell reactors off 6.5v each, giving 1.65vdc to each cell?
What kind of MMW are you getting from each unit? It must run very cool and the E/lyte must remain clean.

[Stevo]

Stevo,
I looked at your attachment; interesting! So what you're doing is running 2 individual 4 cell reactors off 6.5v each, giving 1.65vdc to each cell?
What kind of MMW are you getting from each unit? It must run very cool and the E/lyte must remain clean.

No, actually I kind of f***ed up the drawing a bit, but that's what you get on a quick lunch break. It's supposed to show a +nn- x2 setup. 6.5v each / 3 = 2.16 - 2.33 v. Sorry. That would actually fit better lol. Here's a better pic: http://www.hhoforums.com/attachment....1&d=1288359928

[jwhhopower1978]

Koya1893:

yes you have a point, well bulid cells will work good and in other words its a quality cell.

I think a ondemand hho system needs to be as bolletprof and efficiant as possible so you can use i in any conditions from subzero temps (whit high % KOH or NaHO + a gas dryer system in this case)

to high temp whit good results.. Thats why i rekomend a Consant current whit a durable PWM

(higher efficiency, works in cold temps and in very long drives, and easyer to tune in best results)

Of cource, if you only have summer conditions it will work whitout ,

I guess i have high demands on the systems i build

Not all engines whit oxy sensors needs EFIE O2 devices, but best results will be whit one and if you use one you will be sure to see results.

The only thing i want is that all new hho builders learns all the neccesary parameters to build a safe efficiant hho systems. So the HHO ondemand systems becomes accepted in your community!

Just trying to post good information to newbies



sorry for the crapy english guys! JW

[Bhart]

I keep seeing a 28% mixture of KOH to distilled water, is that by weight, 8.345lbs x .28 = 2.336lbs of KOH or by volume 128oz x .28 = 35.84oz of KOH

Where 2 lbs of KOH is approximate to 24 oz by volume.

[myoldyourgold]

28 % By weight. You will need a PWM to run it that rich.

[Bhart]

I tried to use the diffusers from this site:

http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategor.../air%20stone/4

I got a lot of bubbles that migrated out of my first bubbler into my second bubbler. I also put a second diffuser in the second bubbler and got more bubblers to migrate through my hose into the throttle body. I have since taken them off and went back to an air muffler for a diffuser in the first bubbler with no diffuser in the second bubbler.