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Thread: Wet cell design- need help

  1. #1
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    Nov 2010
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    Wet cell design- need help

    I have a 1988 toyota pickup; 2.4 Liter, 4 cylinder, carburetor. I built a "smack's booster" type system but did not use his electrical plate cell example. I used two large stainless grill spatulas.

    This is my first build and I just wanted to make something quick figuring I can change the cell out later.

    Is this a good design for my truck?

    What continuous current level should I be aiming for?

    How much Liters per minute should I produce? 1.2 lpm?

    How can I get the required lpm with the least amount of current?


    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Oct 2009
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    Croghanite,
    You need to do some research. Using only 2 electrodes (spatulas) will do nothing except make tons of steam & draw lots of amperage. Having 1 anode and 1 cathode is a single cell with 13.8 vdc. is just wrong. The target area you want is around 2vdc. per cell. This can only be obtained by adding bi-polar (neutral) plates between the powered plates (+NNNNN-). This will give you 2.3vdc. per cell, or (+NNNNNN-) for 1.97vdc..
    An open bath design is very inefficient to say the least. You are correct, however, that your engine will need about 1.4LPM to see any gains.
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by lhazleton View Post
    Croghanite,
    You need to do some research. Using only 2 electrodes (spatulas) will do nothing except make tons of steam & draw lots of amperage. Having 1 anode and 1 cathode is a single cell with 13.8 vdc. is just wrong. The target area you want is around 2vdc. per cell. This can only be obtained by adding bi-polar (neutral) plates between the powered plates (+NNNNN-). This will give you 2.3vdc. per cell, or (+NNNNNN-) for 1.97vdc..
    An open bath design is very inefficient to say the least. You are correct, however, that your engine will need about 1.4LPM to see any gains.
    Thanks. I figured it was no good but as I said I wanted something quick to get the ball rolling. It is producing .5lpm at 25 amps.

    So should I go with smacks electrical cover plate cell or something else?

    Will I get gains on smacks design?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Stanfordville, NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by Croghanite View Post
    Thanks. I figured it was no good but as I said I wanted something quick to get the ball rolling. It is producing .5lpm at 25 amps.

    So should I go with smacks electrical cover plate cell or something else?

    Will I get gains on smacks design?
    What you're working on is a good way to get your feet wet. I think we all started out the same way
    As I stated before, a 'wet cell' design isn't going to do much. The .5LPM you're getting is mostly steam rather than hydroxy. It's taking more energy to produce the HHO than is being delivered. As you progress in your experimentation, you'll eventually realize this & build a 'drycell' reactor. Mine puts out 2+LPM drawing only 22 amps, and there is no steam, just gas.
    Keep on plugging & don't get discouraged. We've all been there..........

    This is an old reactor I built last year, but it'll give you an idea:
    http://www.youtube.com/user/LeeHazleton
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by lhazleton View Post
    What you're working on is a good way to get your feet wet. I think we all started out the same way
    As I stated before, a 'wet cell' design isn't going to do much. The .5LPM you're getting is mostly steam rather than hydroxy. It's taking more energy to produce the HHO than is being delivered. As you progress in your experimentation, you'll eventually realize this & build a 'drycell' reactor. Mine puts out 2+LPM drawing only 22 amps, and there is no steam, just gas.
    Keep on plugging & don't get discouraged. We've all been there..........
    Thanks again. I am just trying to figure out if i will get any gains on the wet cell design. If I cant then I should scrap it and start a dry cell.

    BTW all that steam can't be good for an engine!!!!!!!!!

  6. #6
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    The steam carries KOH or whatever you're using in the electrolyte into the engine. Any aluminum (throttle body, carb, etc.) will be destroyed very quickly.
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  7. #7
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    Nov 2010
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    well that's just great... I reckon I will start a new thread about how to keep steam/ moisture from entering the engine.

  8. #8
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    Bubblers are generally successful. Some folks make dryers, also, but I still haven't seen one worth building.
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Kennedy N.Y.
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    the steam in itself won't hurt the engine... Read up on some water vapor threads.. from what I hear, there's an MPG improvement from using water vapor alone... I personally haven't looked into it...

    It's the KOH vapors that's bad for the engine (or at least the aluminum parts of the engine)... the important thing is to get the KOH Vapors out of the steam/hho....
    But, as Lee said, go with a dry cell... Read, Read, Read, Read, Read some more... I've got a Smack Wet Cell in my van... I'm averaging probably 1-2MPG improvement with it... ONCE, I saw a 4mpg improvement... This is on a 12.5 MPG base line.... But overall, I get 13.5-14.5 mpg running the smack cell.
    I've got 3 dry Cells Built, but just don't have the time to yank the smack out and install the Drys...
    They're easy to build... Again, Read, Read, Read, Read, then, when you think you have it all embedded into your Brain, go back and Read some more... The info is there... the work is Easy, the parts are readily available...
    96 E-250 4.9L, 100,000 Miles.
    12.5 MPG Befor HHO
    16.5 (Best) after HHO.
    Modified Smack Gen I Cell.

    85 BMW 524TD
    26-32MPH
    HHO Coming soon

    A TOOL Is only as GOOD as it's operator. If the Operator DON'T KNOW How to work it, The TOOL WON'T WORK

  10. #10
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    Nov 2010
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    thanks!

    I have been reading for weeks and what I am looking for is a dry cell build. A site that shows step by step build of a dry cell. I have only found sites that show aspects of it and not an actual build/diagram.

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