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Hey koya thanks a lot for your help too man I forgot to give you some credit haha. I tried not to ask stupid questions I dont know much yet but in some time I should be getting better at it all. That pipe is actually going to be my resivoir I like that video though ill try and see if I could try that thanks for the advice.
Senior Member
D3,
Looking much better! Not to overstep Ben, but I've used the expansion plugs in the past & didn't like them. They will rust, and you don't need contaminants in the e/lyte. Instead, I bought the cheaper black rubber ends with hose clamps on them. They work really well.
Also, a 12vdc power supply will work, but remember: an average car will be putting out 13.8vdc, not 12. Believe me, 1.8 volts makes a whole lot of difference when it comes to splitting molecules!
After running it with the power supply for a while & playing with it, try just attaching it to jumper cables hooked up to a running car. You'll see what I mean!
Have fun & be safe.
1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php
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That is a good point I did not even think about how they would rust and the black caps do make more sense but almost seems like in that video In Ben comments if I did that it would be a pretty strong for a good reservoir. Also the car battery is a good point ill try that and see if I can get some type of PWM device or somthing thanks for your help.
Senior Member
No worries Lee, one thing I did not mention was replacing that bolt with a SS one from West Marine. good point. It all depend where you are located, the shower liner "Buro Meter" is too high to compress and when it get cold like it is in most of area you need to really torque down your bolt to keep it tight and from leaking.
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Yea i was thinking that too it is very cold out so I'm sure it will have to be real tight. I could not get anything done today because of schoolwork haha except for get some more supplies and I located a steel supplier 1 mile from my house who will get me 316L Stainless steel of any gauge I want for cheap and will even cut it for free. Check out their website its a pretty cool place http://www.aaa-metals.com/laser-wate...tting-new.html . So if the build I'm working on actually does pretty well then I will be upgrading to a bigger unit very soon. I will be posting the actual build this weekend once I get started on it ill try and take some good pictures.
Senior Member
Change the bolt on the plug to stainless and clean the grease out of them or you will have trouble. They come with grease on the inside. Take it apart wash it good and change the stove bolt to stainless. It is worth the money.
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."
ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .
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Yea thanks for the tip your right that thing is greasy as hell and its very easy to replace that stupid bolt with a nice Stainless steel one im sure they have a good enoguht bolt at home depot or lowes.
Senior Member
Originally Posted by (D3F0)
Thank you for that link I am in the process of looking for another supplier that can do more of the drillilng and cutting my plates instead of having a helper do.
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Yea they are a good place its located in Hanson, MA today is going to finally be the day i start building again but I still have not made up my mind about the spacing I know that the closer spacing = less resistance within the gap, more current flow and more gas released. So I guess .040 inches isn't bad Ive read a couple times for example in the comments of this you tube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fWwwsB1KN0 that double stacking is the way to go because it is more efficient. I know Bio farmer you said it should be find cause you use the same gap but the reason I am thinking about double stacking the gaskets is because my plates have a slight curve in them all since they are just wall plates that I flattened out in a little vice. I still am convinced ill easily short it out due to how much pressure Im going to have to put on these gaskets to seal 21 plates correctly. I'm gonna start cutting my plates tell me what you think about the spacing.
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Alright everyone I just spent 6 hours straight finishing up my dry cell and it looks pretty good i still need to get a couple things but here is a big update there are going to be 15 pictures so stay with me here haha.
First thing I did was clean off all my plates I fount out that the plates from Home depot are 430 grade stainless steel. I also got some of the same quality from Lowe's but i think Lowe's has two types and i got the crappy magnetic stuff because there other ones were out of stock. The plates I have will stain, Rust and corrode they suck and I do not even get why I even wasted my time with them. It turns out for these to last a little longer they need to be shined to a mirror finish, stupidly I scratched the hell out of mine. So I had to shine them up the best I could. Here is a pic of a comparison the one on the left I touched up the one on the right was from the failure before.
It took me about an hour to clean all my previous plates this way I used a wire brush on a grinder to get it all done. After I shined them up i cut 7 more neutral plates and did the same thing.
They look pretty good for now but I hope they last a couple days at least. Once i got them all cut up and shined I cut the bop holes on the new neutral plates a lot bigger so i can get a better flow when I stack them so that the cell is kind of temped to fill up better.
After the holes were drilled i cut up the cutting board from Wall mart it was started to look like I actually was getting somewhere about here.
Once the board was cut I used a drill with a 1/2 inch drill bit to make a hole and then used some type of really old tap thing i found in a random spot in my basement.
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