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Thread: hho dry cell issue plz help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    8

    hho dry cell issue plz help

    i built a 6x6 dry cell 16gauge 304 steel plate from home depot i tried to set ups one is + nnnnn - nnnnn + nnnnn - on 13.6 v car/alternator with potassium carbonate 15 table spoons in 1/2 gallon of distilled water running at 8 amps about 500ml a min, so i then tried + nnn - nnn + nnn - nnn + nnn - with same potassium carbonate solution and got 40 amps but but maby 1lpm also tried citric acid pure 100% at 10table spoons running 40 amps same production. The engine light does not come on and cant tell a difference . I have a 97 chevy 5.0l silver ado i no i should have about 5lpm to start but i cant find a way to get it so my question is what electrolyte to use what plate setting and how much amps to get 5 lpm . If possible i would like to stay with a safer electrolyte like citric acid because i worry about touching the cell when i take it apart and cleaning it in the sink but all suggestions would be most appreciated thank you o yea my gaping is 1/16 using o rings , 1/4 steel bolts for wire connections to steel with nuts

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    333
    First let me say that you don't need 5lpm for your 5.0 engine. at the min 1.5-2.5lpm. The 6X6 plates you have should make that much if you configured them like this: +NNNNN-NNNNN+ and run a seperate fuse for the pos. In additition, you should alternate the eqaulizing holes. as far as, what electrolyte to use. Almost everyone in the forum use KOH, I for one use NaOH it is easier to get at a local store and I guess I am cheap when it comes to paying for shipping and waiting for it to arrive.

    If you were to use NaOH start with 1lb. per 1 gl of distilled water. If your driving is long then configure you cell this way: +NNNNNN-NNNNNN+. and use 2 lb. per 1 gl. of water. The 6 bipolar will keep the cell cool during the long drive and use less amps. That config should only used 25-30 amps and produce 2-25lpm, which is plenty for your 5.0 liter engine.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Bradenton, Florida
    Posts
    201
    RC,
    I tried Potassium Carbonate a couple of time, and could never get it to product much. To bad, because it a lot less caustic than KOH. If you follow koya1893's advice, you should have a good system. I just wanted to jump in to let you know my first hand experience with Potassium Carbonate.

    Steve
    1991 Plymouth Acclaim 3L V6.
    1 dry cells with nineteen 6"x8" 316L ss plates, driven by constant current PWM set at 35 amps (13.3V at PWM). 28% KOH electrolyte. Total measured output 2.5 lpm. Mileage went from 18 to 26 mpg, all city driving (44% increase). EFIE set at .370 and I still need to play with ignition timing.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    8

    hi

    i tried it with 5 neutrals and it didnt work tho i used more plates than you sugested . Do you think i have to many plates? Or maby its the electrolyte. Has anyone has any good results using citric acid . I mean it pulls amps just don't seem to produce tho i have to say i took a bit a foam of the top with the first try using lemon juice and a teaspoon was way loud when i lit it . so i went over to pure citric acid. As for the fuse i have one on positive already but why would you fuse both side. If i were to try to get around 2 2 .5 lpm what kind of realistic results would i get if it really possible for a truck getting 15mpg to get 40mpg.tks yal so far for you help and where could i buy naoh locally what would be the product name plz

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    333
    The reason I use a fuse for each pos that way if the cell amps usage is high with just signle fuse, having the second the amp draw will be pulled from each fuse. Where I leave there's a lot of Amish store, they get NaOH in 50 gl. barrel to make soap. I get is by the quart (6) at a time. That's the reason why I can get locally.

    i am not sure where you are located. Yes, if you use more than 5 bipolars you need to mix your solution a bit higher. with 5 bipolar 1lb. per 1 gl. of water is idea with using a PWM. Of course during the winter months you have to mix in alcohol to prevent it from freezing.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    8

    hey

    yea im using such thick wire 6 gauge and 1/4 bolts with washers with a hundred amp fuse i dought that i have to worry about the amp draw not drawing evenly , remember electricity flows in path of least resistance so i keep the paths even or at least try to . Have you gotten burned with that stuff yet , do you wash you plates off lets say every 5,000 miles in your sink or is it to dangerous. I'm just worrying about when i disable the cell

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    8
    come on people dont one have any advice i can do to get more production or least tell me what im doing right n wrong plz

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stanfordville, NY
    Posts
    799
    If you look, both Ben and Steve have been trying to help you.
    Run the plates -NNNNN+NNNNN-. Use KOH at 28% - that's 3 lbs. of 92% pure flake per gal. of distilled water.
    You don't need 6 awg. wire or 1/4" bolts. I use 12 ga. wire with #8 bolts & terminals. Draws 30 amps & stays nice & cool. Puts out 2.4LPM without any problem. Mine is larger though, 6"x9" 13 plate/12 cell.
    What gaskets do you use? 0.040" will work fine and the material is cheap.
    There is no reason to wash the plates unless they get contaminated by poor quality electrolyte or really cheap stainless that will corrode easily.
    In reality, the only way you're going to get from 15mpg to 40 mpg is going downhill only. With time and a proper build, maybe 21-24 mpg..
    The more information you post, the more we can help. Photos are best.
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by rc626184 View Post
    come on people dont one have any advice i can do to get more production or least tell me what im doing right n wrong plz
    I will be the first to tell you I am one to write proper grammar, but one thing I do well is read. Apperantly you can't do that because if read what we posted you should be able to build a cell to feed that 5.0 liter Chevy. Maybe I didn't share this with you at the begining, Chevy are the easiest system to overcome. so having said that let me say something and if you read it you will have enough to build a cell to produce enough for your truck.

    First:

    Identify how many wires your O2 has

    How many O2 do you have? Once you answer those two question, then you need to ask which EFIE do I need to treat those O2 (go to fuel save) you should be able get one from Mike tell him Ben sent you.

    Now we shared with you the configuration you should focus on (read our answer)

    We shared with you what electrolyte to use (read our answers)

    For the bubbler do a search or look at my Youtube site and search HydrogenTek

    The rest you should be able to figure out how to power it up. If you are doing things on your own and not take our advice into consideration, then you are on your own. If you are going down the road doing what you feel is correct, make sure you don't do your experimenting inside the house and be safe doing it. It could be someone close to you who gets hurt while you are doing something foolish with a VERY explosive gas. This is not a toy to play with. If that is you goal, then are not getting help from me.

    So, go build one using some of our advice and when it is not working come back and ask the question I bet someone will answer you with valid advice to lead you to a productive cell. Good luck and be safe.

    Here's my system on my F-150 to give you an idea what you are trying to build. The cell is two stack +NNNNNN-NNNNNN+ wire seperately, 3" X 11"
    Plates, solution is mixed 2 lbs. per 1 gl of water. The other photos are the EFIEd handling the four O2 on the truck, the black square is for the front AFR (Wide band) O2 the gray box with the ports on top handles the rear O2 (narrow).

    I am using these EFIE way outside their design to accommodate how much I want to lean the system out to the point of getting 17mpg city and 23 highway from a 5.4 liter eng.

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