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Thread: Kia Soul 2010 HHO Newbi

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Huntsville, Alabama, USA
    Posts
    3

    Kia Soul 2010 HHO Newbi

    I'm new to HHO and have been researching for several months now. I've built two drycell units. The latest one is a 7 plate system +NNNNN- that has yet to be tested. I have an electrolyte(drain cleaner from walmart) that has both NAoh and KOH in it. The contents label only shows those two chemicals and the says it is a Concetrated Lye. My cell has .5in plastic ends and 304SS wall plates from Lowes. My gasket material is .125in. rubber mat cut to fit. I have an inlet on the bottom and a return on the top. My water reservior is a universal radiator over flow tank. I do not have a bubbler or a flash back system. My tubing is clear and my fittings are plastic. Please comment on anything you think I need to make this system better. I'll be addressing the EFIE later. Thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    8

    hey

    whats the name of that stuff you got from walmart , i would be carefull there could be other stuff in there even stuff like salt is safe to eat but very dangerous to burn .And if u add the return (outlet) line from your cell to your reservoir it becomes a bubbler . Be carefull i took a table spoon of bubbles and lit it in my drive way it was so loud sounded like a m80 i thaught the cops were going to be called . Best advice i found is use the cutting board from walmart as your ends its much more durable and wont crack !!!! Buy some hose clamps to keep your fittings from leaking its helps and add shut off valve so you can service easy and add one at the lowest point of cell for easy draining specially when on car . Wear gloves and eye protection and keep vinegar around if spills on you only use that to neutralize it .o yea have two lower inlet holes and two higher holes it will flow better . hoped i help a bit

  3. #3
    Nice looking reactor you have.

    Your bottom inlet holes need to be staggered one left, than one right as far away from the previous hole as possible. What size wire are you running? You might want to go with a minimum of 10 gauge. Your end plates will have a tendency to crack when the reactor heats up like rc626184 stated. Definitely go with two inlet and two outlet ports. I use wire ties on my fittings. You might want to also put your leads in opposite corners.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Huntsville, Alabama, USA
    Posts
    3
    rc626184,
    -The stuff I got from walmart is a Scotch Cleaning Brand called "Instant Power, Main Line Cleaner." The bottle only list the hazardous chemicals which are Sodium Hydroxide(NaOH) and Potassium Hydroxide(KOH). I called the company to see if I could get a list of other chemicals or solutions in the product. They said that this kind of info was proprietary and they could not tell me. Even the MSDS was limited to NaOH and KOH. I guess this is why you should only use pure KOH or NaOH for an electrolyte.
    -The bubbler issue. Should the return line be submerged in the water that is in the reservoir so a bubbling action occurs? And if this is done should I also add another devise between the reservoir and the intake to the engine?
    -The cutting board is a great idea. My first tought was clear plastic allows me to see that the cell is working, but that is not needed if the bubbler is showing the same effect.
    -Shut off valve. That is a great idea. I dont think I've seen this on any other builds. I will attempt to inculde this for ease of cleaning.
    -Vinegar also great idea.
    Thank you for the advice!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Huntsville, Alabama, USA
    Posts
    3
    Bhart,
    Thank you for the compliment.
    -Bottom inlet holes? Would it be a good idea to stagger the bottom hole in the ss plates so that the solution is diverted for better displacement?
    -Wire? I'm using a small 16AWG for testing only. I do plan on using 12 or 10 on the final build along with some type of lug and bolt so it will make a better connection.
    -In and out ports. The inlet ports on the bootom are to be staggered. What about the outlet ports?
    -Wire ties...great idea!
    -leads in opposite corners. Are you talking about one on top left and then one on bottom right? If so does it matter which is + or -?
    Thank you for the advice!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    8

    hey

    copy this bubble design ,lowerest point inlet to cell next lower point out let to cell and hightest point to car on line to car stuff with bronze so if u hit bumps will keep water from smplashing out also helps with flash back as a second protector , bubler act s 3rd . http://cgi.ebay.com/HHO-DRY-CELL-RES...item255bf92625
    As 1st protector only use this http://cgi.ebay.com/HHO-FLASHBACK-AR...item3a63d52d6f others are not that safe dont make your own there to cheap to be playing around , plus when wire up cell relay wire using same wire off gas pump relay this way it only goes on when the gas is on not the iginition .

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stanfordville, NY
    Posts
    799
    Quote Originally Posted by KiaSoulHHO View Post
    Bhart,
    Thank you for the compliment.
    -Bottom inlet holes? Would it be a good idea to stagger the bottom hole in the ss plates so that the solution is diverted for better displacement?

    Not for displacement, but to control volt leakage. You want the electrolyte holes as far away from each other as possible.
    -Wire? I'm using a small 16AWG for testing only. I do plan on using 12 or 10 on the final build along with some type of lug and bolt so it will make a better connection.

    10 ga., also bolt connectors to the plates.
    -In and out ports. The inlet ports on the bootom are to be staggered. What about the outlet ports?
    Staggering the ports themselves does nothing.
    -Wire ties...great idea!
    -leads in opposite corners. Are you talking about one on top left and then one on bottom right? If so does it matter which is + or -?
    (+) on 1 side, (-) on the other. You can also make connections at opposing corners, ie: (+) top left & bottom right, etc..
    Thank you for the advice!
    Hope this helps.
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,418
    Staggering the ports themselves does nothing.
    I guess there are a lot of variables involved but I can say that there is a measurable difference with staggering both the input port and the exit ports in reactors with bipolar plates. Size, placement, insulation of the ports and a number of other things when combined all add up to the wanted effect. I would stagger them. It works on a lot of reactors.

    Now in some very large reactors this could be a disadvantage and create a hot spot in the center portion of the reactor and makes placement and port size more critical to get it right. In reactors with only unipolar plates and where each set does not share electrolyte with any other then this is not necessary. Sorry Lee.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

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