I'm new here, please be easy on me. :)

[lhazleton]

Both. You don't want to go over 0.50 amps per sq.in. of active surface area.
With 4" round gaskets, one side of one plate is 12.56 sq.in. of space containing electrolyte.

[TrafficTrader]

Redesign is done and hooked back up, I increased the KOH Mix. I'm reading 15 amps steady, 100 degrees in the reservoir..... I'm getting ready to test it now.... I got the car at operating temp and I reset my volo chip...


Any idea where I might be as for output? and or improved mileage? I was getting 30mpg.


Thanks

[lhazleton]

OK, what you should do is make a eudiometer so you can measure the amount of gas the system is putting out so it can be adjusted for maximum efficiency.
Did you re-route the gas hoses? How is the reactor getting its power? I think you had mentioned a switch. If so, that's a bad idea.
As far as the FS2 goes, you have to remember that it takes about 125 miles to gather all necessary info to route the proper maps. IF it works at all. Patience is important.

[TrafficTrader]

eudiometer???? If you had to build one how would you build your's?

Yes I took off the Vacuum lead....
Power is connected where Battery is connected to the Fuse Box. Hope that made sense.

All the electrical was done by a GM Skilled Trades Electrician that worked on building harnesses and computer connection trouble shooter for all the proto type cars. He retired a few years ago, He now works for a 3rd party that is in the Battery Car Industry.... You said a switch is bad? The instruction in the video and docs call for 30 amps draw, for continuous draw of 30 amps we when to a heavy gauge which lead us to the cut off switch, we couldn't find a ignition lead that could handle that load. All connections are crimped and sodder.

55 mile trip my reservoir temp was 90 degrees 15 amps steady

+nnnnn- +nnnnn-

Thank you again......

[Bhart]

[QUOTE=lhazleton;43272]Kelly,

Another thing that would help would be if we knew what size engine you have. The standard rule of thumb for figuring out what reactor configuration to run is 1LPM (liter per minute) of actual gas output per liter of engine displacement.

Lee, shouldn't that be .5 LPM per 1 liter of engine displacement.

[lhazleton]

DUH!!! Thanks! Guess I should've checked what I was writing, huh?
Thanks for noticing, Bhart.
Kelly, make that .5 LPM per liter!

[lhazleton]

As far as the wiring goes, you can't have everything powered by a simple on/off switch. At some point, you'll forget to turn it off. When this happens, for even a few seconds, a lot of damage is gonna occur when you turn the ignition on. Power should come from the battery via a continuous duty solenoid. The solenoid should be turned on by connecting it to the oil pressure sending unit. By doing so, the reactor will run only when the engine is actually running. Of course, you still want to incorporate a main switch in case you want to keep everything off for any reason.

[TrafficTrader]

When I rebuilt the cells per your instructions I noticed some black burn marks on the plates with in the o-ring spacers.... then after the new set up was complete I noticed my water got some black floaties in it. I flushed the system and started fresh... That was using the OEM specs to run the system.

I used a 500ml water bottle to measure output.... took 50 secs to fill.

As for the switch..... Start the car before I turn on the system till I can add the solenoid???

As for the spacing on the plates, what would be an ideal width for them? Rebuilding the system I made sure they were airtight but I didn't know spacing distance.....

in one of your first messages to me you talk about a -nnnnnn+ setup but the next message you suggested a -nnnnn+ which is what I set them up as..... Im tying to figure out how to increase my out put of HHO...

Thank you lhazleton's

Kelly

[myoldyourgold]

You need an input port / balance port at the bottom of each plate. This should be a hole smaller (1/2 the size) than the exit port at the top and be offset on each plate. What is happening in your reactor is when it is not running if fills up with electrolyte and then when it runs, the electrolyte is pumped out with the gas lowering the level in each cell. This creates excess heat also. The center cells will be the worst. By adding the input ports you will keep the liquid equal in each cell and allow for flow to take place. A thermosyphon takes place and liquid electrolyte comes in from the bottom and goes out the top with the gas. This helps move the bubbles and of course cools the reactor. As it is now you are only using a small part of your plates (the low water mark) making it an inefficient reactor.

The black that you are seeing around the exit port is where there is excessive current leakage. To avoid current leakage you need to insulate these holes with Weldon 16. In order to make this stick on you will need to sand blast the area around the holes. You can also see the low water mark where it is darker at the bottom. The high water mark is at the top and is also visible. It is not so dark because it is only that high for a very short time. You want the color of the plates to be the same from top to bottom when you get everything right.

[lhazleton]

Kelly,
As Carter is saying, having gas holes only just won't work!
Each plate must have a hole for the electrolyte to pass through. These must be staggered. For instance, 1st plate hole at 5 O'clock, 2nd plate at 7 O'clock, 3rd at 5, 4th at 7, etc..
Additionally, you need to have tubing running from the bottom of the reservoir to each side of the reactors endplates (bottom). Top ports=gas out, bottom ports=electrolyte in.