After you make the modifications suggested to you, if you don't get enough gas production you might add a third stack.
+nnnnn-nnnnn+nnnnn-
After you make the modifications suggested to you, if you don't get enough gas production you might add a third stack.
+nnnnn-nnnnn+nnnnn-
Thanks on the bottom holes.....
As for the other questions?
The switch, Don't turn on the unit unless the car is running, correct?
and the distance between the plates, should there be a certain distance????
Thank again (both of you)
Switch.... Yes you are correct do not turn on the switch until the engine is running and has started to warm up at least on computer controlled fuel injection ( 1 minute is about right). There is a number of ways to automate this but the cheapest way is just a switch that is wired through the ignition. When the ignition is off the switch can not be turned on !!! and when the ignition is turned off the reactor goes off. (Ignition on the reactor can be turned on with the ignition off the reactor cannot be turned on!!) Lee can attest to what happens if it is left on by accident LOL!!! This is still not fool proof because you can run the reactor with the ignition on and the engine not running!!Thanks on the bottom holes.....
As for the other questions?
The switch, Don't turn on the unit unless the car is running, correct?
and the distance between the plates, should there be a certain distance????
Thank again (both of you)
Distance between plates.... there is a number of theories about this is what I use based on my testing but does not apply across the board because of so many types of plate designs, plate preparation, and the all unipolar designs. That said you can experiment with my rules. On reactors with less than 12 square inches of active area on one side of one plate 1/6 inch thick gasket. On reactors with more than 12 square inches of active area on one side of one plate 1/8 inches. Regardless of the reactive surface area if the gas has to travel more than 6 inches to get out then you need 1/8 inch gaskets.
Methods of automating the on off, I suggest you do a search on this forum and you will find some of them. It is my opinion that at idle there is no need to be running the reactor at all especially in computer controlled fuel injected engines. The main reason behind this is to help the O2 censor not to richen the air fuel ratio, when not using an EFIE and to get better mpg because of the less drag on the alternator when it is not necessary.
To keep the post short and not having the time to go into details I am not explaining the reasons why the different thickness of gasket material but there are good reasons to why at least to me and as stated does not always apply depending on a number of things.
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."
ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .
Hey Kelly,
My name is Paul and I'm brand new to this Forum. I'm learning how to navigate. The question I have is how I could place a thread out there for everyone to read and make a comment on if they wish to?
Thanks in advance. Let me know if you receive this mailing.
Paul
If you want to start a new thread in this section of the forum then use this link. http://www.hhoforums.com/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=6
Or go to the section you want to post into and click the New Thread button on the left side of your screen.
1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php
All of your suggestion have been great but I have restriction that does not allow me to implement all of them.
I disassembled the units, doing so the black soot was worse. During that test my amps did go to 20-25.
I drilled holes (alittle smaller than the top) at 5 & 7 o'clock positions and reassembled. I could not place any more inlet ports because of space. plus I do not have a sand blaster so I could not blast the holes.
After I drilled I did file down any burs on the new holes plus I used a very fine steal wool to clean the black off of the plates.
I place my solution, and tested the units. I was running 20-25 amps again, I dolooted my solution by 25%, still running same amps. I dolooted it again by 25% with the same results. I cut the solution by half and my amps are coming down....
I believe the extra holes are causing me to change my KOH percentage.
Temps on the cells about 87-92degrees, bubbler same....
I'll test tomorrow going to work and back (60miles).
Ok..... Whats the best way to build a meter to measure the gas flow or volume. Or are their any out there that can be bought for a reasonable price ie. $20?
Again thank you for your input.....
Kelly
I have a crude but effective way of measuring HHO. I fill a five gallon bucket 3/4 full of water, take a one litter plastic bottle and fill it with water. Turn plastic bottle upside down in the bucket of water making sure no water escapes from bottle. Place gas tubing from HHO system into plastic bottle neck. Now time how long it takes for the HHO gas to fill up the bottle and the first bubble to escape from bottle and that will give you a good idea on how much production you have. liter/min.