Results - Check Engine Light ?

[myoldyourgold]

1) The directions stated the green LED should be blinking, but does it matter if it's blinking fast, slow, etc? So long as it's not solid, and not off?
2) What the heck are these instructions talking about that switch intended for Dodge/Chrysler vehicles?
The instructions read, "There is a new switch added that was placed directly between the 2 red test points. The switch is only needed for making EFIE work on 2.5 volt, narrow band sensors, such as are used on some Dodge/Chrysler engines. For these, the switch should be in the "off" position. For all other vehicles, the switch should be left in the "on" p[osition. You can also tell which setting is selected by measuring the upper red test port with your meter. If the voltage is between 0 and .45 volts, its set for normal engine. If it's between 2.5 and 3.5 volts, then it's set for the Dodge/Chrysler modification."

I am going to be no help here. I have very little experience with EFIE's because most of my research is to try and avoid the use of one. Some of the others here who have had a lot of experience with them should be able to help you out. I have used very simple ones on obdI systems to see what the difference is between my mods and an EFIE but am working on OBDII right now and will be getting a digital one soon to do further testing.

[astrocady]

OK -- I'm not an EFIE expert either, but I think I know what is going on. I assume you're using a FuelSaver-MPG analog narrow band EFIE.

If you put your meter between the two test probe ports on the EFIE, you are reading the voltage that you are adding to the O2 signal. Normally that reading should be between 250 - 350 mili-volts.

If you put your meter between the black port and ground, you will read the voltage coming from the O2 sensor. On MOST cars this will rapidly fluctuate between 0 and 1 volt. If you put your meter between the red test port and ground, your meter will read the corrected signal going to the computer --- the reading from the black port added to the reading from the red-to-black port.

As I said, MOST cars use a signal voltage of between 0 and 1 volts. SOME DOGES use a higher signal voltage ranging up to 2.5 volts.

If the meter reading between the black port and ground goes above 1 volt, then you have one of the odd-balls, so you will need to put that switch in the off position.

I hope I've cleared this up a little rather than just muddying the water further


Steve

[Sniper168]

Thanks for all the advice gentlement - especially your patience Steve.
Now, onto a final thought; Do I need to install a flash-back arrestor?
it seems very straight forward to make and install, but isn't that what the bubbler is for?
Sniper

[myoldyourgold]

Do I need to install a flash-back arrestor?
it seems very straight forward to make and install, but isn't that what the bubbler is for?

Short answer YES. Be safe!!!

[frodo2222]

Hi you All!
I am having the same issues as you on the EFFIE and the lack of better MPG on my 1999 Town Country with the 3.8l engine.
I have messed with the different settings and have done many many 6 miles circuits with the different ones going up by 30 millivolts at the time and the best I can get is 21.6 MPG average over the 6 mile course. at 330 on front sensor and 200 on rear.

It seems like you wrote the computer shows way better MPG for about 1 mile and then the computer overrides or changes things and then it's back to the normal 20-21 range of MPG.
Any help or guidance on how to make it get better MPG is HUGELY appreciated!!

looking FORWARD TO HEARING YOU GUYS THOUGHTS AND HINTS!!

PS did you ever get that van to get more MPG and what did you do to make it happen!