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Thread: Results - Check Engine Light ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Anaconda, MT
    Posts
    6

    Results - Check Engine Light ?

    Info:
    - 2005 Dodge grand caravan
    - homemade 6x6 21 plate dry cell -nnnn+nnnn-nnnn+nnnn-
    - 2lpm, 11.2v, 28A = MMW 6.377
    - NaOH 1Tbs to a gallon

    I installed this after the air filter close the the throttle body and I am not seeing any difference after the mpg test. I was seeing a noticeable amount of HHO streaming from the end of the hose. I am certain it is not steam since heat is not an issue with this design. I thought I would have at least thrown a check engine light considering I have not done any mods on it. I have read that some people were getting some results with out them. I planned on the mods but wanted to see it work before spending more money on the mods.

    This was only one 50 mile test. Maybe I should leave it installed for a longer period of time. I have a 98 dodge 5.9L. I was thinking of trying it in here since it is a later model. idk...

    What are you all thoughts...?
    E/IR

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stanfordville, NY
    Posts
    799
    For a 5.9L engine you need 3LPM of gas. 2LPM won't cut it.
    Also, where does the '11.2 volts' come from?
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Anaconda, MT
    Posts
    6
    The volts that were mentioned were from the bench test since I have not taken the time to calculate the MMW while in the van. I did test the LPM in the van and at 35A I was running just over 2 lpm. I didn't check the volts in the van while running though.

    What do you suggest about the van? Should I call it good then and just work on the truck? Is there just some vehicles that HHO will not work in?

    THX...
    E/IR

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Bradenton, Florida
    Posts
    201
    witmeraa,

    Congratulations! It sounds like you've built yourself a nice system. But, there is always a but, there are a couple of suggestions I'd like to make.

    First, you say you can see the HHO streaming out of the hose going to your engine, but are certain it isn't steam. You are right in that it probably isn't steam. But what you are seeing is water vapor carrying with it whatever corrosive electrolyte you are using. This water vapor is caused by the mechanical agitation of the electrolyte inside the cell. It can't be avoided, but you do need to take measures to remove the NaOH from this water vapor before it enters your throttle body, because it will cause damage to it over time.

    We do this with a separate bubbler/scrubber. Search the forum and you should find lots of good information about this device.

    Secondly, about your check engine light and MPG. I do not consider what your seeing to be unusual. I just installed a system on a 2005 Kia Spectra with a 2 liter engine. I started with straight HHO and ran it at several levels, even going as high as 2.5 lpm in one test, and never threw and check engine light -- never saw any MPG improvements, either. I then installed a volo performance chip and repeated the same test and got the same results. I have recently unhooked the volo and installed a conventional EFIE. While tuning the efie, I at one point had it so lean that when I pulled onto the interstate the engine died at 60 MPH -- and I still wasn't showing a check engine light. (and it is does light when I start the engine so I know the light bulb is good, and scan gauge doesn't show any error codes). Fortunately I am starting to see some MPG gains and am currently looking for the sweet spot as far as lpm go.

    So, I guess my point here is that while some vehicles easily through a check engine light with HHO, some don't.

    Sorry for the length of this message, I don't have time to make it short.

    Steve
    1991 Plymouth Acclaim 3L V6.
    1 dry cells with nineteen 6"x8" 316L ss plates, driven by constant current PWM set at 35 amps (13.3V at PWM). 28% KOH electrolyte. Total measured output 2.5 lpm. Mileage went from 18 to 26 mpg, all city driving (44% increase). EFIE set at .370 and I still need to play with ignition timing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stanfordville, NY
    Posts
    799
    Steve,
    Hurry up & get the Kia perfected! At some point, I'm actually gonna get the new motor (1.6L) for my '04 Rio and I'll just make it easy on myself and do whatever you do!
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Anaconda, MT
    Posts
    6
    Thanks astrocady,

    Yeah, after reading through the forum I was hearing about the corrosion problem that some have been having on there aluminum parts. That is scary business. I do have a bubblier after the reservoir but that just wasn't enough I guess. I will for sure look up on some of those threads you mentioned.

    So you are suggesting installing an EFIE even if I am not seeing results and play with it and eventually I will see a change for the better in the mpg? With that I am just worried that the change that I will see is that I am only feeding it less fuel with the EFIE. I have also been reading and some have even installed a temperature gauge type deal in the exhaust so they can keep the engine running at factory temperature. I guess some have ran into overheating and ruining their engine due to a wrong adjustment on the EFIE?

    Thx, Aaron
    E/IR

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stanfordville, NY
    Posts
    799
    Aaron,
    Just to give you an idea of corrosion, this is my original MAF after not using a well built bubbler:
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stanfordville, NY
    Posts
    799
    Also, you need some form of equipment to change the A/F ratio (FS2, EFIE) or decreased MPG's can be expected. While inducing HHO, the O2 sensors see the increased oxygen level. Thinking the engine is running too lean, the ECU will send longer pulse signals to the injectors in an attempt to correct this.
    I'd never run my system without a EGT gauge. They're like 30 bucks or so and may save an engine.
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Anaconda, MT
    Posts
    6
    Thanks lhazleton

    I will do some more homework and get back to you guys in this same thread down the road. I will work on getting these suggestions down. If anyone else has any input it would be greatly appreciated. You guys are great!

    Thanks, Aaron
    E/IR

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    15

    Trying to understand....

    I'm new to your forums as well as HHO making, so bear with me. I just guilt a smack's booster with bubbler.
    I have the following setup:
    1) + wire coming from Fuel pump relay
    2) this goes to 40amp relay.
    3) 40amp relay goes to the Duel Digital EFIE as well as the CCPWM.
    4a) the Duel Digital EFIE is hooked up as per the instructions -but I still wonder if I got the right wires...
    4b) The CCPWM receives the + wire from #3, when the wire is hot, it allows + and - power lines from the Battery to come into the device and out to the Booster.
    5) CCPWM maintains 11.9-12.2 amp and 13.5-14 volts.
    6) HHO is generated and sent up through my bubbler.
    7) Hydroxy gas then is routed to my air hose after the air filter which goes into the plenum.

    I always have great gas mileage right up to about 1/2 of a tank, then the check engine light comes on and I can almost watch the fuel need move down (no kidding)!
    Any ideas? Help, please?
    Oh, it's on a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan SE Sport 3.3 liter v6 FWD.

    Thanks,
    Sniper

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