Results - Check Engine Light ?

[astrocady]

Sniper,
It sounds like you have your EFIE set to high -- you are trying to lean your fuel too much. During the first half of the tank, the computer and EFIE are fighting and then finally the computer say, "OK, something is not right here. I'm getting strange and conflicting reading from my sensors, so I'm shutting down the fuel management system and going to a set overly rich mixture to prevent any damage."

You will need to 'Play' with that EFIE setting -- Find the spot where it almost turns on the check engine light.

[myoldyourgold]

Astro is right and you might want to try having your reactor turn off at idle. I have had the same thing happen and this solved the problem in some cases. I was not using an EFFIE though.

[Sniper168]

hmmmmm.... and how do I do this? lol

[myoldyourgold]

Look at post 277

http://www.hhoforums.com/showthread.php?t=6836&page=2

[Sniper168]

Look, I want to thank you all for entertaining my stupidity. I pulled out the papers that I downloaded and when I bought all this stuff and what do you think I found... but the freakin' directions on programing the EFIE.
Please forgive me for wasting your time.
But I will post back here to let you know how I make out.
Stupid Sniper
lol

[Sniper168]

I bought a new multi-meter and wouldn't ya know it, I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the readings that the paperwork is telling me I'm supposed to be getting.
THe paperwork said I'm should be starting st (I think) 350ma?
But I can't get my multi-meter to show me anything similar to that.
If you guys want to talk about shooting Haji's at 1200 meters, I'm all over that. But for the life of me this multi-meter is kicking my ass.
Sniper

[myoldyourgold]

First make sure the meter is set for millivolts something over the number you are looking for if you have a choice. Some meters have choices like 20 M or 2000M. You would have to chose 2000m if that was the only choices. Be cool and just pretend you are looking through your scope and take a deep breath and......

[Sniper168]

Ok so here's where I'm at. I set my multimeter to the 200m setting and was getting a reading from 200 to 0 (or close to 0 I think). Anyway, my instructions said that I should start out at 350mv and lean it out as far as I could until the engine started sputtering.
My engine would not sputter at all and the lowest I got was 60 before the Engine light came on.
I took off the ground wire to the battery to reset the computer, then started at 150 on my multimeter, lowering/leaning it out all the while watching this green LED light on the EFIE device.
That LED is supposed to be blinking - If it is solid, that is bad, if it is off, that too is bad.
So I was able to get my multimeter down to 90 and the LED is rapidly blinking away like a one man disco party.
I drove the car and all SEEMS to be fine; no loss of power, no sluggishness, no midgets chasing my down the road.
BUT! (and there is of course always a but), the Dual Digital EFIE that I have has a switch the, according the to the instructions, is for Dodge/Chrysler vehicles (which mine is Dodge Gr.Caravan) and should be in the off position if that is case. My EFIE arrived with this switch in the "ON" position and when I turn it to the off position my Green LED light goes out - which I'm guessing is bad.
Still shooting high and to the right.....
Sniper

[myoldyourgold]

Set your meter on the 2 position and ignore the decimal. 1 millivolt = 0.001 volts. If set at the 200mv you will read 0.

[Sniper168]

Ok, I set the multimeter on the "2" under the DCV category.
I plugged the red and bl
ack posted into the EFIE then started the car.
Sure enough, just as the instructions indicated, the beginning readings were 145.0 (.45 volts) After the 25 seconds of so, I noticed the volts coming down to the .090 that I had set it at a while ago.
I did drive the car and it seems quite fine.
My questions now are this:
1) The directions stated the green LED should be blinking, but does it matter if it's blinking fast, slow, etc? So long as it's not solid, and not off?
2) What the heck are these instructions talking about that switch intended for Dodge/Chrysler vehicles?
The instructions read, "There is a new switch added that was placed directly between the 2 red test points. The switch is only needed for making EFIE work on 2.5 volt, narrow band sensors, such as are used on some Dodge/Chrysler engines. For these, the switch should be in the "off" position. For all other vehicles, the switch should be left in the "on" p[osition. You can also tell which setting is selected by measuring the upper red test port with your meter. If the voltage is between 0 and .45 volts, its set for normal engine. If it's between 2.5 and 3.5 volts, then it's set for the Dodge/Chrysler modification."

It's almost like they're speaking enRish!