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Thread: wiring question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    wiring question

    i have a question about installing it. I added a on/off toggle switch. but do you think its better to install somewhere where the ignition starts? if so where and how do you that?

  2. #2
    Many people use a combo of master on/off + a relay. Master on/off is just that. If it's set to on, when the car starts the relay is triggered turning on the electrolyzer and associated electronics.

    To figure out where you'll need to hook the relay up to, you'll need a wiring diagram of your vehicle. Many times this can be found online at autozone under the repair diagrams for your vehicle. Other sources are Haynes manuals or the dealership service manuals for the vehicle. You'll need to hook the relay to something that is only running when the engine is running.

  3. #3
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    I understand. I just have no idea where to splice it to. Since I am using 10awg I feel comfortable spliceing it to a #10. I did register to autozone and found a few wiring diagrams, but again don't know where or how to begin.

    I was thinking the entire dash apart, or
    Try to hooking it up to the a fuse from the fuse box, under the hood.

    I'm going to continue with it on Friday and hopefully be done.

  4. #4
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    Dec 2009
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    -Or, you could just do it like I do (I hate messing with my truck's wiring, it's bad enough already) and depend on the annoyance factor of LED's to remind you that your system is on. Here is a pretty straight forward method that should still keep you from blowing anything up...
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #5
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    The best (safest) way is to run the main lead from the oil pressure sending unit to a solenoid that's connected to a hand operated switch. This will ensure that the reactor will not be able to run unless the engine is running. Some people run off the fuel pump relay, which is dangerous, as this will be hot as soon as the key is turned.
    1998 Explorer 4x4, 4.0
    14 cell / 2 stack 6x9" drycell reactor 28%KOH dual EFIE, MAF enhancer, IAT & ECT controllers, 2.4 LPM @ 30 amps. 6.35 MMW http://reduceyourfuelbill.com.au/forum/index.php

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by lhazleton View Post
    The best (safest) way is to run the main lead from the oil pressure sending unit to a solenoid that's connected to a hand operated switch. This will ensure that the reactor will not be able to run unless the engine is running. Some people run off the fuel pump relay, which is dangerous, as this will be hot as soon as the key is turned.
    Lee,
    The main lead? You mean to the relay, right? I worry that a current draw from the oil pressure sender would throw off the oil pressure reading from some manufacturers- isn't that a fractional voltage anyway
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  7. #7
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    I much prefer a voltage sensing switch. It basically will not come on until the alternator is running.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  8. #8
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    Biofarmer thanks! You just saved me time and one big headache

  9. #9
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    Rimouski, Québec, CANADA
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    Quote Originally Posted by myoldyourgold View Post
    I much prefer a voltage sensing switch. It basically will not come on until the alternator is running.
    I Like this solution

    Do you have on-store (and part number) we can buy this voltage sensing switch ?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Here is one I have tested and works very well. There are others but this one is very good.

    http://www.solarpanelstore.com/solar...ch.info.1.html
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

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