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Thread: BioBeast Progress...

  1. #151
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,418
    Gus, can you time how long it lasts with the meter hooked up to it or how low it goes before you get tired of waiting. LOL Also short it out and see how much it comes back to. I would like to compare to what results I found.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    340
    Bio;
    Please don't get ****ed at me . You have a beautiful setup, massive as h**l. But nice !! One thing, the candescent dryer... You ever work with air conditioning before ? That stuff is going to soak up all it can as long as it can. It seeks out moisture ! Which means it will take it out of your bubbler by microscopic drop after drop. Just saying.......

    I don't think you have a mass other than the unit, try to to just use or ground one cell at a time see what you get ! I'm thinking to much metal too little power ????????
    The voltage without power .......... My first cell did that every time, the hotter it was the more voltage it would put out on its own. I'd drive on it maybe 30 mins. then check it with and without power hooked up ; here's some of my results.
    Ignition off, after used 30 mins. wiring intact(relay cut off), 2.47 volts hot, 10 min later 1.61 volts, 30 mins later .09 volts.
    Run again 30 mins, ignition off, wiring disconnected from unit; 5.73 volts hot, 10 mins. later 2.79 volts, 30 mins. later 1.01 volts.
    I think that with the wiring disconnected that the amp meter wasn't pulling voltage, hence the higher voltage ! ? But i did the same test the same way so the only change was the wiring.
    Its done right or its not done !
    Hail HHO.

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    116
    Quote Originally Posted by BioFarmer93 View Post
    Madman, Igor, Darrell, Larry, a little something of passing interest...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=zGDnTDGLh6A
    I can get my 2 LED lights that are behind my bubblers to run for about 4 minutes before they go out. I also noticed that the charge will also begin to build after they are unhooked. Some of the UNI's I have built have also made voltage when most all of the elite was drained out of the reactor. Crazy stuff!

    "D"

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    show me state.. Missouri
    Posts
    90
    I'm no expert but first thing that comes to mind is somewhere during assembly POS + and NEG - are backward or out of order. From the looks of your vids you went into great detail keeping things clean during assembly so I would start with wiring .... do to plate configuration ( nice work) ...
    Green Fuel H20.. Dual "38" plate dry cells

    Dual Batteries

    Dual 50 amp current limiting PWM`s

    Dual 6 quart reservoir`s

    HHO Connection Mac Daddy Flashback arrestor

    Dual HHO Connection Bobbler/arrestor

    Green Fuel H20 Dual map sensor enhancer

    Fuelsaver-mpg Digital DEFIE

    30amp PWM fuel pump voltage controler

  5. #155
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,418
    Gus, take the tube off the active bubbler and plug it with your thumb long enough to get the other bubbler functioning. If that doesn't work then there is something plugged. If it does then there is some imbalance and the gas is going to the week side.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    116
    Quote Originally Posted by myoldyourgold View Post
    Gus, take the tube off the active bubbler and plug it with your thumb long enough to get the other bubbler functioning. If that doesn't work then there is something plugged. If it does then there is some imbalance and the gas is going to the week side.
    Yep, I am thinking the same thing. The water level is lower on the right bubbler side than the left. "D"

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,418
    Gus, I looked at the video again and and this is a possible scenario. When you first started there was no production for some time while pressure was building to clear the lines and overcome the back pressure. As soon as this process completed it started bubbling in both bubblers. A very slight imbalance which increases the longer it runs, lowering the level in one bubbler, creating even a greater imbalance stopping all flow to the other bubbler. You might have to split the exit into two complete separate systems, feeding their respective bubblers to solve the problem.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    NorthEast Fla.
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by iger13 View Post
    Thanks' Gus, very interesting.
    About the problem, I would try to blow throw hose to see if the problem in hoses, if not I would look for electrical.
    Yes, after visualizing the function and routing (and calming down some) I have narrowed the clog location down to two places- I have eliminated any electrical causes through testing after I shot the video...
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    NorthEast Fla.
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by myoldyourgold View Post
    Gus, can you time how long it lasts with the meter hooked up to it or how low it goes before you get tired of waiting. LOL Also short it out and see how much it comes back to. I would like to compare to what results I found.
    Carter,
    Not a problem, but I should probably do it after I get the KOH in it, right now I'm doing an active passivation with citric acid.. Remind me, OK? You know how I get...
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    NorthEast Fla.
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by Madsceintist View Post
    Bio;
    Please don't get ****ed at me . You have a beautiful setup, massive as h**l. But nice !! One thing, the candescent dryer... You ever work with air conditioning before ? That stuff is going to soak up all it can as long as it can. It seeks out moisture ! Which means it will take it out of your bubbler by microscopic drop after drop. Just saying.......

    I don't think you have a mass other than the unit, try to to just use or ground one cell at a time see what you get ! I'm thinking to much metal too little power ????????
    The voltage without power .......... My first cell did that every time, the hotter it was the more voltage it would put out on its own. I'd drive on it maybe 30 mins. then check it with and without power hooked up ; here's some of my results.
    Ignition off, after used 30 mins. wiring intact(relay cut off), 2.47 volts hot, 10 min later 1.61 volts, 30 mins later .09 volts.
    Run again 30 mins, ignition off, wiring disconnected from unit; 5.73 volts hot, 10 mins. later 2.79 volts, 30 mins. later 1.01 volts.
    I think that with the wiring disconnected that the amp meter wasn't pulling voltage, hence the higher voltage ! ? But i did the same test the same way so the only change was the wiring.
    Man, I don't just get randomly mad at people, OK? Especially when they provide me with information that I hadn't considered..
    One thing I noticed was that even though there was no production at first when I had the entire 7 group beast hooked up, after I ran 5 groups a few times, first
    (+) & closest 5 groups, then (-) & closest 5 groups, and alternated this about half a dozen times to get it warmed up, THEN it would produce some when I hooked up the whole thing... Not a lot, but it worked. But yeah, too much metal for a wimpy 8-10% citric acid electrolyte to carry enough current to do much.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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