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Thread: HHO 21 plate cell weird configuration?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    HHO 21 plate cell weird configuration?

    I bought a vehicle with a HHO cell 21 plate but looks like the configuration is different than the others i have seen .
    I have -nnn+nnn-nnn+nnn-nnn+
    Is this OK or I should change to -nnnn+nnnn-nnnn+nnnn-

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    1,418
    I bought a vehicle with a HHO cell 21 plate but looks like the configuration is different than the others i have seen .
    I have -nnn+nnn-nnn+nnn-nnn+
    Is this OK or I should change to -nnnn+nnnn-nnnn+nnnn-

    What temperature does it run at and how many amps does it draw? Do you know how much HHO is being produced? What size are the plates? What kind of driving are you planning to do with the car? Sorry for all the questions but this will help everyone to give you some good advice.

    This setup is splitting voltage by 4 and amps by 5. Because it is splitting amps by 5 it might not over heat with 3.45 volts per cell especially if the plates are media blasted. Before you change anything can you answer my questions. It is generally agreed that going to 4 n's per stack would be better and 5 would be even better which should make a more efficient reactor.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    20
    Thank you for the quick reply!
    The size of the plates are 6x4 , the temperature I have not measured and don't know how.
    It produces 1 liter of HHO for 45sec at around 20amps with 2 tbs KOH per 1 quart of distilled water without PWM but the amps keep rising in just a few minutes.
    I am planning mainly city driving , the furthest would be about 40-45 min hwy max.
    The engine is V8 4.4 .
    I bought a PWM 35 amp and a dual EFIE.
    Thanks for all your suggestions and help !
    Ioan

    P.S. Ask as many questions as you want

  4. #4
    If you have access to an IR thermometer use that to read the temps. When I take the readings on my reactor, I read the hdpe endplate, the plate stack, and the electrolyte.

    If you don't have one...I'd suggest one...really handy for many things other than just hho projects

  5. #5
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    Nov 2009
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    If the amps are climbing reduce the amount of KOH to the point where after 10 minutes of run time it stops climbing. Check to see if you are still making enough HHO and that it is not getting to hot. Should just be barely warm to the touch. You should run not hotter than 130º F after hours of running. Cooler the better. 90º F to 100º F is the best.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  6. #6
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    Jun 2011
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    I just took the cell apart and 3 of the active plates( 2 positive and 1 negative) are really bad corroded and one of them you can almost see through it.
    What should I do? Put them back or order new ones?
    BTW where can I order the same design and size 6"X4"?

  7. #7
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    Jun 2011
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    Forgot, also some of the neutral plates have one side corroded .
    Does it matter or need to be replaced too?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    I just took the cell apart and 3 of the active plates( 2 positive and 1 negative) are really bad corroded and one of them you can almost see through it.
    What should I do? Put them back or order new ones?
    BTW where can I order the same design and size 6"X4"?

    Forgot, also some of the neutral plates have one side corroded .
    Does it matter or need to be replaced too?
    Here are a few reasons this is happening. Your plates are overheating most likely because of exceeding .5 amps per active surface area on one side of one plate or your electrolyte has been run low for some reason or another. By running low on electrolyte your plates have less active area and can over amp and create damaging heat very quickly, in hours in fact. It would really be helpful if we could see pictures of the plates. There could be other problems but would need to see the plates. The plates are shot if they are almost eaten through. If your plate starts to look like a map or some kind of art work that is the end of them. This should not happen for years if ever if everything is right. I suggest you go to a -nnnnn+nnnnn-nnnnn+ 19 plate setup. In a 4 X 6 running at max 20 amps this should make close to 1.5 lpm and last a very long time. For a reactor with this many plates it will be important to have the correct size of ports to prevent flow problems. Another reason for us to see the plates. Input ports and exit ports should be on both ends. If you do not have a gasket on the last plates so there is electrolyte on both sides of the last plates you need to do that too. You need to give us more detailed information to help otherwise we are going to guessing about some things.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    20
    The cell had used baking soda for electrolyte and Hydrogen peroxide.
    Yes, some of the neutral plates look like a map and corroded and the active plates some eaten through .
    The cell has 2 ports , one of each side and there is only one gasket on the last plates.
    Look like the previous owner run below 20 amps because he had a 20 Amp fuse at the line.
    Please, give me an email so I can send you pics of it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    I sent you a PM. You can post the pictures here. There are a lot of very good people here that will be able to help. More people looking at it the better advise you will get.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

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