2000 Camry 2.2L 4cyl (Best HHO intake placement?)

[jerrymc777]

Been reading this forum for quite a while and am now trying to do my own install on my 2000 Camry 2.2L 4cyl engine in CA.

My question is: Where would be the best location to place my HHO output to my intake? I've included a picture with arrows/numbers, but I've always read that the best location is closest to the manifold. As you can see in my picture, there are many hoses and ports to the manifold.

#5 hose appears to be rerouted back to the airfilter, opposite side of #2. I've searched my Haynes manual and online manuals to find out what this port is/does to no avail. I'm assuming it's an emmissions hose.

I will be using:

1. One Dry Cell, 26 4"x5" plates, -NNNN+NNNN-NNNN+NNNN-NNNN+ design with KOH & distilled water.

2. One 2 or 3 qt. reservoir/bubbler, depending upon where I can fit this under the hood.

3. One flashback arrestor.

4. One vaporizer/filter, depending on placement of HHO intake to engine. Possibly not needed?

5. One 15A PWM for control of production & current.

6. One MAP/MAF Enhancer.

7. Ammeter, On/Off switch, 30A inline fuse, 40A solenoid/switch, etc...

In 2008 I've messed around with some cheap HHO wet cells and wasn't too impressed, but now that I see the dry cell is the way to go, it's getting exciting again!

Thanks guys/gals for the help!

[myoldyourgold]

OK this is better. #5 where is it connected on the manifold side? Is it on the manifold or the throttle body. That is what is not visible.

I think you are confusing the reservoir with a bubbler. They are two different things even though the gas is bubbling through both of them. The bubbler does not have electrolyte in it, only clean water and I suggest some boric acid.

As I stated in the other thread that the reactor is much larger than need be and the number of n's will create to much heat. You only need 1 to 1.5 LPM.

Go to a -nnnnn+nnnnn-. If you need more which you will not for this engine you can build another one and run it in parallel each producing 600 mlpm and very efficiently.

I will get back to this when I have more time and others will I am sure give you some good advise.

[jerrymc777]

OK this is better. #5 where is it connected on the manifold side? Is it on the manifold or the throttle body. That is what is not visible.

I think you are confusing the reservoir with a bubbler. They are two different things even though the gas is bubbling through both of them. The bubbler does not have electrolyte in it, only clean water and I suggest some boric acid.

As I stated in the other thread that the reactor is much larger than need be and the number of n's will create to much heat. You only need 1 to 1.5 LPM.

Go to a -nnnnn+nnnnn-. If you need more which you will not for this engine you can build another one and run it in parallel each producing 600 mlpm and very efficiently.

I will get back to this when I have more time and others will I am sure give you some good advise.

Here's a closer pic. #5 appears to be connected to the intake air temperature switch (IAT), from what I can see in the Haynes manual. Although it's not exactly in the same spot as Hayne's illustration.

Yes, the reservoir is not a bubbler; not sure why they're listed as such on Ebay. Wouldn't filling the bubbler with boric acid cause it to leak back into the reservoir(KOH)?

Since I don't know how to build a dry cell or even have the tools, I ordered the cell from a guy on Ebay and that's the configuration he and others are using for a 26 plate design. Since I only have a 15A max PWM, wouldn't that keep it cooler? I really only want to max it out at 10A. I don't want to have to replace my alternator just yet...

Thanks again for the help!

[myoldyourgold]

Here's a closer pic. #5 appears to be connected to the intake air temperature switch (IAT), from what I can see in the Haynes manual. Although it's not exactly in the same spot as Hayne's illustration.

Yes, the reservoir is not a bubbler; not sure why they're listed as such on Ebay. Wouldn't filling the bubbler with boric acid cause it to leak back into the reservoir(KOH)?

Since I don't know how to build a dry cell or even have the tools, I ordered the cell from a guy on Ebay and that's the configuration he and others are using for a 26 plate design. Since I only have a 15A max PWM, wouldn't that keep it cooler? I really only want to max it out at 10A. I don't want to have to replace my alternator just yet.

I would put a vacuum gauge on that port and see if it has low vacuum at idle and raises with rpm. If it does you can use it by adding a T. If it does the opposite then you can not.

This is how your flow should be: Electrolyte form the bottom of your reservoir goes to the bottom of the reactor. Gas and electrolyte exits the top of the reactor and goes back to the reservoir. The gas bubbles through the electrolyte in the reservoir and exits the top of the reservoir to the bubbler (clean water) and bubbles up through the water and out the top to a dry filter and then through a flash back arrestor to the injection point.

Now there are different methods of where the gas/electrolyte enters both the reservoir and bubbler. I have the gas entering the top and going down a tube to the bottom. On the bottom of the tube going down in the bubbler I use a diffuser to make very small bubbles so the gas gets as clean as possible traveling through 15 inches of water. No need for a diffuser in the reservoir. Distance is important not the amount of water. Long narrow bubblers are better than short fat ones.

To many people are confusing the reservoir with the bubbler because both have gas bubbling through them. They are very different animals and should not be confused. I put just a very small amount of boric acid, which is a very mild acid in my bubbler water.

To stop the reservoir form sucking the liquid out of the bubbler you must use a vacuum brake because during cool down a vacuum is formed in the reactor. A normal one way valve between the reservoir and the bubbler will leak and is not safe if vented to atmosphere. I have found with a good filter in front of it and venting it back to the air cleaner for safety it works. I use a home made filter and two one way valves in series. The [B]last one in the series[B] being electrical and has a tube connected to it that goes to a flash back arrestor and then to the air cleaner just in case both valves leak. I doubt this will ever happen but you can never be to safe. The electrical valve is normally open. That means it closes when the reactor has an electrical connection and opens when there is no electrical connection. I am sure there are simpler ways to do this but this is safe and works for me.

In winter in colder climates you can not use plain water in the bubbler, it will freeze. I am still working on a good solution for this and will post it when the problem is solved.

The easiest bubbler is a good dry filter I would check out Koyo's setup when he posts it.

[BioFarmer93]

Jerry,
In this last photo "..IAT marked.jpg" approximately where your ring finger appears to be, on the side/underside of that intake tube, drill a 9/16" dia. hole and and screw in a nylon 3/8-18NPTx3/8" hose barb, straight or elbow. Screw it 2/3 the way in then stop and apply a light bead of black RTV sealant on the exposed threads, then screw it the rest of the way in... You're good to go.

PS- take the intake tube off to drill it and make sure no plastic shavings are in it when you re-install it.

PPS- When you get your reactor, immediately take it apart and take the plates to a place that does sand blasting and have them turn the pressure down a little (so they don't warp the plates) and blast them. When you re-assemble the reactor, do it as myoldyourgold advised you and go with at least 5 neutral plates so that you are making HHO, not steam.
-nnnnn+nnnnn- is all you need or want for your engine size.

[Quebecker]

I would put a vacuum gauge on that port and see if it has low vacuum at idle and raises with rpm. If it does you can use it by adding a T. If it does the opposite then you can not.

This is how your flow should be: Electrolyte form the bottom of your reservoir goes to the bottom of the reactor. Gas and electrolyte exits the top of the reactor and goes back to the reservoir. The gas bubbles through the electrolyte in the reservoir and exits the top of the reservoir to the bubbler (clean water) and bubbles up through the water and out the top to a dry filter and then through a flash back arrestor to the injection point.

Now there are different methods of where the gas/electrolyte enters both the reservoir and bubbler. I have the gas entering the top and going down a tube to the bottom. On the bottom of the tube going down in the bubbler I use a diffuser to make very small bubbles so the gas gets as

clean as possible traveling through 15 inches of water. No need for a diffuser in the reservoir. Distance is important not the amount of water. Long narrow bubblers are better than short fat ones.

To many people are confusing the reservoir with the bubbler because both have gas bubbling through them. They are very different animals and should not be confused. I put just a very small amount of boric acid, which is a very mild acid in my bubbler water.

To stop the reservoir form sucking the liquid out of the bubbler you must use a vacuum brake because during cool down a vacuum is formed in the reactor. A normal one way valve between the reservoir and the bubbler will leak and is not safe if vented to atmosphere. I have found with a good filter in front of it and venting it back to the air cleaner for safety it works. I use a home made filter and two one way valves in series. The [B]last one in the series[B] being electrical and has a tube connected to it that goes to a flash back arrestor and then to the air cleaner just in case both valves leak. I doubt this will ever happen but you can never be to safe. The electrical valve is normally open. That means it closes when the reactor has an electrical connection and opens when there is no electrical connection. I am sure there are simpler ways to do this but this is safe and works for me.

In winter in colder climates you can not use plain water in the bubbler, it will freeze. I am still working on a good solution for this and will post it when the problem is solved.

The easiest bubbler is a good dry filter I would check out Koyo's setup when he posts it.

Could you tell approx. How much boric acid do you use ?
How many boric acid Tbsp per liter Of distiller Water

Thanks

[jerrymc777]

Jerry,
In this last photo "..IAT marked.jpg" approximately where your ring finger appears to be, on the side/underside of that intake tube, drill a 9/16" dia. hole and and screw in a nylon 3/8-18NPTx3/8" hose barb, straight or elbow. Screw it 2/3 the way in then stop and apply a light bead of black RTV sealant on the exposed threads, then screw it the rest of the way in... You're good to go.

PS- take the intake tube off to drill it and make sure no plastic shavings are in it when you re-install it.

PPS- When you get your reactor, immediately take it apart and take the plates to a place that does sand blasting and have them turn the pressure down a little (so they don't warp the plates) and blast them. When you re-assemble the reactor, do it as myoldyourgold advised you and go with at least 5 neutral plates so that you are making HHO, not steam.
-nnnnn+nnnnn- is all you need or want for your engine size.

I believe you're talking about the large black plastic square/rectangle intake hose?

This is fantastic info. and I appreciate ALL of your help!

[jerrymc777]

I would put a vacuum gauge on that port and see if it has low vacuum at idle and raises with rpm. If it does you can use it by adding a T. If it does the opposite then you can not.

This is how your flow should be: Electrolyte form the bottom of your reservoir goes to the bottom of the reactor. Gas and electrolyte exits the top of the reactor and goes back to the reservoir. The gas bubbles through the electrolyte in the reservoir and exits the top of the reservoir to the bubbler (clean water) and bubbles up through the water and out the top to a dry filter and then through a flash back arrestor to the injection point.

Now there are different methods of where the gas/electrolyte enters both the reservoir and bubbler. I have the gas entering the top and going down a tube to the bottom. On the bottom of the tube going down in the bubbler I use a diffuser to make very small bubbles so the gas gets as clean as possible traveling through 15 inches of water. No need for a diffuser in the reservoir. Distance is important not the amount of water. Long narrow bubblers are better than short fat ones.

To many people are confusing the reservoir with the bubbler because both have gas bubbling through them. They are very different animals and should not be confused. I put just a very small amount of boric acid, which is a very mild acid in my bubbler water.

To stop the reservoir form sucking the liquid out of the bubbler you must use a vacuum brake because during cool down a vacuum is formed in the reactor. A normal one way valve between the reservoir and the bubbler will leak and is not safe if vented to atmosphere. I have found with a good filter in front of it and venting it back to the air cleaner for safety it works. I use a home made filter and two one way valves in series. The [B]last one in the series[B] being electrical and has a tube connected to it that goes to a flash back arrestor and then to the air cleaner just in case both valves leak. I doubt this will ever happen but you can never be to safe. The electrical valve is normally open. That means it closes when the reactor has an electrical connection and opens when there is no electrical connection. I am sure there are simpler ways to do this but this is safe and works for me.

In winter in colder climates you can not use plain water in the bubbler, it will freeze. I am still working on a good solution for this and will post it when the problem is solved.

The easiest bubbler is a good dry filter I would check out Koyo's setup when he posts it.

I removed this IAT hose (on the IAT sensor side) with the engine running and the engine ran smoother and at a higher RPM. I test drove it around the block (disconnected) and it drove great.

The hose does have a strong vacuum but I don't have a gauge to read the amount.

Thanks myoldyourgold for all your help. It is greatly appreciated!
I can't wait to get this project going and to document my results and post here and on YouTube!

[BioFarmer93]

I believe you're talking about the large black plastic square/rectangle intake hose?

This is fantastic info. and I appreciate ALL of your help!

HUH?! Not hose, The BIG ROUND TUBE THAT THE INTAKE AIR GOES THROUGH TO THE THROTTLE BODY. It looks like it has donuts around it and in the photo it bends right then left and attaches to the throttle body.

[jerrymc777]

HUH?! Not hose, The BIG ROUND TUBE THAT THE INTAKE AIR GOES THROUGH TO THE THROTTLE BODY. It looks like it has donuts around it and in the photo it bends right then left and attaches to the throttle body.

LOL...yes that's what I was referring to. In person it looks kinda square.
Ya, I didn't think I could drill a hole through a tiny 3/8" hose...