Stopping Your Reactor at Idle

[myoldyourgold]

There is a number of RPM switches available but most of them are programed to start around 2000 RPM and go up as I remember. If someone can find one that would work at lower rpm then please let me know.

[Quebecker]

There is a number of RPM switches available but most of them are programed to start around 2000 RPM and go up as I remember. If someone can find one that would work at lower rpm then please let me know.

like that ?

http://www.raptorperformance.com/Tec...structions.pdf RPM Range from 100 to 9900



http://www.holley.com/15982NOS.asp

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=709475_0_0_

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GRANATELLI-GM...item20bc0a2493

http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/msd-...aign=Shopzilla

[myoldyourgold]

I like the raptor one the best. I would like something cheaper but if not I will just have stop eating for a number of days and cough up the $105 plus shipping. LOL It at least goes low enough and is made to do exactly what we need.

Thanks that is a good find.

[MtnGoatXJ]

This is more involved than you might think at first because it wants to use more amps to clear the lines because the pressure has dropped the level of the electrolyte in the reactor by pushing out some electrolyte out of the input port before it overcomes gravity just like it does every time it starts up after sitting for a while.

Check valves in the gas output lines?

[D.O.G]

I like the raptor one the best. I would like something cheaper but if not I will just have stop eating for a number of days and cough up the $105 plus shipping. LOL It at least goes low enough and is made to do exactly what we need.

Thanks that is a good find.

A possible cheaper alternative is an automotive frequency switch kit.
Jaycar have a kit (KC-5378) of the Silicon Chip circuit for $37.95.
There should be someone marketing similar kits in the U.S. (probably cheaper).

I use a different approach to this.
A vacuum switch on the ported vacuum line (zero at idle) switches my reactor on and off. I have it adjusted so that the reactor only turns on at cruise.

[myoldyourgold]

Check valves in the gas output lines?

MtnGoatXJ,Every check valve I have tested leaks quite quickly if it has electrolyte passing through it. It is not a reliable solution.

I use a different approach to this.
A vacuum switch on the ported vacuum line (zero at idle) switches my reactor on and off. I have it adjusted so that the reactor only turns on at cruise.

Pete, what vacuum switch do you use? I tried one a year or two back and it failed after about a week of use. Obviously the wrong one and have not tried it again. Price and availability is always an issue too.

[D.O.G]

Pete, what vacuum switch do you use? I tried one a year or two back and it failed after about a week of use. Obviously the wrong one and have not tried it again. Price and availability is always an issue too.

The one I'm using now is a ZSE40F-01-22L from SMC.
This gives you a 3 digit LED display and two outputs (NPN 80mA) that can be set anywhere from 100kpa to -100kpa.
With only 80mA outputs, I switch small PCB relays, which then switch ordinary 30A automotive relays.
This isn't a cheap option, a quick search found two places (in the U.S.) quoting $120. I scrounged a couple of second hand ones for somewhat less than that.
The beauty of this is that, with the unit mounted on the dashboard, I can change set points on the move.

A cheaper option would be a simple switch type. They're used in auto LPG conversions and lots of industrial applications. I've used a few brands (for work) over the years, most would be capable of switching ordinary automotive relays.
I've used one before as a "safety switch" for a reactor, no engine vacuum = no power to the reactor.

Please understand, I'm not saying that this is the "best" way of doing it, but on an old banger like my car, that has no MAF, MAP, TPS, CAS, etc, signals to use ... it works.

Pete.

[kimbo]

love the brake light solution....no electronics! why worry about the time delay? if yer braking yer foot is off the gas.

[myoldyourgold]

love the brake light solution....no electronics! why worry about the time delay? if yer braking yer foot is off the gas.

Not while you are just slowing down (coasting) before you put on the brakes. It is during this time that the O2 sensor senses an out of balance situation and will force the computer to make corrections over time.

[myoldyourgold]

This isn't a cheap option, a quick search found two places (in the U.S.) quoting $120. I scrounged a couple of second hand ones for somewhat less than that.

Thanks Pete, that confirms my research. Not a cheap solution but one all the same. Your adjustable one is excellent for testing with. On newer cars the throttle position sensor would be the best and easiest spot to get a signal from but none of the solutions I have found are cheaper than my $1.50 to $2.50 lever switch. My labor is cheap, with the mounting being not the easiest and getting it adjusted a challenge, it might work out to be the same except for my cheap labor. LOL