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Thread: Chevy 4.3L Vortec ECU

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Cleveland, OH
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    Chevy 4.3L Vortec ECU

    Anyone out there have any experience with the electronics on this engine? I have a 2001 Chevy Astro, 4.3L V-6 Vortec, and pretty much the same engine/ECU combination in alot of Chevy's. I have installed a HHOKitsDirect 772 Dual Block HHO kit. I'm pulling 30Amps with no problem and producing lots of HHO gas....tested it myself! Everything is installed to spec.

    Where the problems is....my ECU. I can't get it to budge! Here is what I have tried so far:
    - Mileage Chip from HHOKits (came with kit, no response, sent it back for EFIE)
    - Dual Wideband EFIE (got the wrong one, my engine has narrowband O2's)
    - Dual Narrowband EFIE (wired up, could not get O2 sensors to respond and lean out mix)
    - Changed all three O2 sensors using Denso's (old ones looked like they were burning good)
    - Changed spark plugs (installed PulseStar Irridiums. Awesome plugs!)
    - Still no response out of the Narrowband EFIE (sent back for another chip)
    - Just got another Mileage Chip, but this one looks identical to a Volo Chip
    - Installed, reset, and is working okay
    - Installed an Ultra Gauge to monitor emissions system
    - Engine is completely tuned and runs good (top of engine rebuilt, new gaskets, new injectors, new plugs, wires, cap/rotor, vacuum hoses, PCV, clean EGR, etc.)
    - HHO injection is into the Intake, behind the MAF sensor, about 6" before the throttle body.
    - Did a 'hot reset', when everything was at temperature and running hot.

    - I did notice that my exhaust pipes (duals) are a bit sooty. Exhaust smells normal, sometimes strong. I don't get that 'ozone smelling' exhaust that everyone talks about.

    Ran 500 miles on two fill-ups with this new, current Mileage Chip. Mileage is the same, actually a tad lower. (17.8mpg) HHO is running at 30Amps. My base average mpg is 18.8mpg. I get about 19.5 Hwy and 17 City.

    Anyone got any ideas on the OBDII workings of this engine? This can't be this hard to make something happen. I'm producing the HHO, the ECU is overriding everything I do.

    Thanks.....

  2. #2
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    Nov 2009
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    My thought is that it might not be an OBD II problem but a reactor problem. What I have read about the 772 reactor would make me believe that it is not the most efficient. I suspect that the gas produced is moisture laden and that there is very little HHO and what is there might not be very powerful. I think if you were in a very dry climate you might see some results because of the moisture. I have not tested one of these but based on what I know that works this product is not at the top of the list. Has good advertising though but.......Someone with the right equipment needs to test this beast. I could be wrong but I do not think so. Which narrow band EFIE did you try? That could have been the problem too. You need a good quad digital narrow band to treat all three of the sensors on that engine. I think that one has three. I know the 2000 does.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  3. #3
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    Oct 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by myoldyourgold View Post
    My thought is that it might not be an OBD II problem but a reactor problem. What I have read about the 772 reactor would make me believe that it is not the most efficient. I suspect that the gas produced is moisture laden and that there is very little HHO and what is there might not be very powerful. I think if you were in a very dry climate you might see some results because of the moisture. I have not tested one of these but based on what I know that works this product is not at the top of the list. Has good advertising though but.......Someone with the right equipment needs to test this beast. I could be wrong but I do not think so. Which narrow band EFIE did you try? That could have been the problem too. You need a good quad digital narrow band to treat all three of the sensors on that engine. I think that one has three. I know the 2000 does.
    I have three sensors, narrowband, 2 upstream and 1 downstream. I'm not exactly sure of the HHO output on my 772, but at 30Amps, its cranking pretty good. I set my injection hose in a bucket of water and lit the bubbles with a lighter. It definitely produced a light show....like little bombs going off! (Man that stuff is powerful!!) But, I'm having real good luck with my 772 operating nicely and the van holding the 25-30A current. My secondary bubbler goes really good too. The reactor is not overheating, everything is running good.

    I tried another reset of the chip today, with the engine idling and everything good and hot. We'll see how tomorrow's tank goes. My current Mileage Chip looks identical to the Volo HHO chip. I have no directions, other than installation. I found some resetting tips, but they're all different.

    Oh, the Narrowband EFIE I used was the one from HHOKitsDirect. Looks exactly like the one on Fuelsavers site. I used the Digital Quad Narrowband. It adjusted and worked, but I could not get no response to the OBDII or mixture. Still a rich mix. And, I'm definitely getting into closed loop mode.

    A thing I noticed today, on my Ultra Guage, I'm noticing that my engine temp is running at 184-188 degrees when operating. I just put a new 195 thermostat in too. I'm getting NO SES lights, just have a bit rich smelling exhaust and sooty pipes. All else runs normal.

    I'm wondering if there is one OBDII sensor that is overriding everything.

  4. #4
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    I'm not exactly sure of the HHO output on my 772, but at 30Amps, its cranking pretty good.
    If you look at the manufactures own video you will see what he is calling 3 to 4 lpm is about 1 lpm maybe slightly more, of moisture laden HHO at 35 amps. Yes, it will make some noise when lit but still not enough to give you gains. The seller is using a meter that is not made to measure moisture laden HHO. It can be off as much as 4 X. If you look closely you can see the moisture vapor coming out of the cup. 3 lpm would blow that little cup of the table. The reactor is running in a flooded state and because of that will never be very efficient but they have to do that to keep it cool. Without having one in front of me it is hard to tell for sure but this looks like a 3 plate 2 cell reactor running at 13.8v 17.5 amps per cell with wide gaps and electrolyte concentration controlling thermal runaway.

    This is there claim to fame and the only part of the reactor that is interesting and shows some creativity.

    The internal structure is Better than a dry cell - it is not a wet cell either (though it shares some features of both) and is another part of our patent. It combines the strengths of both, while eliminating the weaknesses of each design. This is why I call it a HYBRID CELL
    I have no idea what feature of a wet cell has any benefit.

    Their claim of making 1 lpm at 120 to 160 watts using brute force is suspect. I think it is closer to 1 lpm at about 300 watts which is not very efficient.

    This is why I think you are not getting any gains. Not the OBD II problems. I would feel a lot better if I am wrong because a lot of people have bought this reactor. This reactor will work to some extent in very dry climates. The added moisture and a little HHO giving some gains. You need really good bubblers with this one!!!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQ0Vp...layer_embedded
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  5. #5
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    I did a couple of things tonight and we'll see how it goes tomorrow. I checked my output over a bowl of ice. There was some steam coming out, not a lot, but I did see a little. The inside of my intake looks real dry. There's one little tiny drip spot under the inlet, but it wasn't much for the amount of miles I just ran.

    I also re modified my intake tube. My inlet is just behind the MAF sensor, on the rubber flex hose. What I never knew was just below my inlet is a 3/8" manifold vacuum connection. I would bet that a good portion of HHO was going into the manifold. So, I fabbed a 90 degree fitting with an 8 inch tube going back to the throttle body. Now the gas comes out just above the throttle plate.

    Reset my Mileage Chip and took it for a ride. Not much difference, but only went a few miles.

    Going to do some research on the steam issue. Wonder if McMaster Carr sells and inline dryer, or some kind of gadget that filters the air and removes moisture.

  6. #6
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    What you call steam might not be steam but just moisture. HHO is loaded with moisture unless you filter it out. The object of the game is to run the most efficient reactor as possible and that comes with less moisture. Moisture is not necessarily bad, especially in very dry climates. Just make sure your bubbler is doing a good job to clean out the electrolyte that comes with the moisture. Even the most efficient reactor will have some moisture but less. It is part of the process. How we deal with it is what counts.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  7. #7
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    Portland Oregon
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    Yep! Got to get the moisture out of the gas to avoid it from recombining. What is the temp of the reactor and gas coming off it when running? One thing to think about, there are allot of people now showing great results running several reactors at under 5 amps each. The reactors may not be at there most efficient down low but the gas quality is very good because it stays cool, getting more hho the the vehicle.

    Just something to think about. "D"

  8. #8
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    May 2011
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    I'll be doing regular maintenance on my 771 this weekend and i'll try to take some shots of the reactor. I won't be taking it apart to see the structure as I was requested not to dismantle our only working system right before we start traveling for family gatherings this winter. But you'll be able to see the plates pretty well through the inlet and outlet holes. BTW, the remote reservoir I installed a few weeks ago dropped the temp of my eletrolyte by around 10 degrees, something to think about Thunder if you have the room.

    Regular maintenance for me is simply draining and refilling the system and trying out some things to keep the bubblers from freezing up as its starting to drop below freezing here at night.

  9. #9
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    Havens78, How many plates dose it have? Just 3? If that is the case what are you paying for. If you count the plastic and if the plastic is injection molded plus 3 plates nuts and bolts you are talking about very little money. In a normal small reactor that produce a good 1 to 1.5 lpm measured with out moisture or about 3 lpm with very little moisture will have 8 316L plates which ups the cost quite a bit. The 771 must have more plates but I have only heard them talking about 3. Just ask the seller how many plates is in it if you can not take it apart. This information will help determine what the reactor is really capable of and how to help anyone who is having trouble. Ask the seller to clarify how it takes the best of an open bath and a sealed flow throw series reactor. I hate to be negative about anybodies reactor but with the information and the feed back by many others who have emailed me that are having trouble tends to make me think something is not right. It might not be the reactor though. Help us out here with some details. I would suggest that you run the reactor between 25 and max 28 amps. This will cut down the moisture quite be but will reduce the production, heat and make a more efficient reactor. I doubt you will be able to tell the difference in fact you might get better gains if you are getting any at all to begin with.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    If i recall you can see 5 plates, but that's still only 3 neutrals and i've tried to get information out of the seller and he simply won't release anything for fear of someone reproducing his product. He does state that he can't prepare the plates (passivate) because of the volume of sales that he pushes out, but the plates are sanded and cleaned before the units are installed. I think i asked too many questions about if the plates were blasted or passivated as I have stopped getting emails from the seller, but that doesn't bother me. If i hadn't started questioning the efficiency of the reactor I wouldn't have found this forum and learned that I build something a lot better.

    I should be able to get to this tomorrow afternoon/evening after I pick up my marvels mystery oil. I'll post some pics as soon as I can.

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