Daniel Dingel converted his first car to run on ordinary tap water way back in 1968! He showed me a government white paper showing a 5-year recovery contingency plan if he was to have released his technology back then. He was given $1 million to 'continue his research' but to then just take people out for rides in his water-powered car; but not to tell anyone how it actually worked... And I promised him that I wouldn't release this information until after he had passed on and left this world.
Thousands of people, from all over the world, trying to discover his secret visited him almost daily... If you look closely at the picture above, he had written the instructions on how it works under the bonnet:
H2+O+[12V+HONEYCOMB SEPARATOR+H2O+SPARK]= ENERGY CALORIES
And, as always, clearly hidden in plain view!
The HONEYCOMB-SEPARATOR is the key
The NEODYMIUM MAGNETS + BISMUTH make up the core...
They thought (hoped) that he'd taken his secrets to the grave with him...
So there's the formula and the main pieces of the puzzle... who out there is going to be the first person to replicate Daniel Dingel's 'HONEYCOMB-HHO-SEPARATOR'..?
Another very big clue is that it also generates electricity... You put 12v of electricity into the unit and it disassociates the water molecules and gives out the HHO gas... but, if you disconnect it from the car battery, it then gives out electricity... so it's a two way reactor.
Water and electricity in... and you get HHO gas out...
Put just water in... and you then get electricity out...
Daniel told me that by connecting one of these units to an inverter, to step up the output voltage, and simply filling it up with water, it would then power a small fridge or TV for several months, he said approximately three to four months... He didn't say, but I presume that after that time you just had to fill it up with some more water again...
With the unit out of the car and sat on the ground with water in it he had an electric car lamp (12v) and when he connected it to the unit and put one connection on a probe and put it inside and touched it on the main flat honeycomb mesh inside of the unit the lamp lit.
And the unit was definitely running on pure tap water as he filled it from the mains water supply, and I even put my finger in and tasted it, just to make 100% sure... and it was ordinary pure tap water with no electrolyte.
He did also say that if fresh water isn't readily available it will work just as well with sea water... and that the car would drive at 70km/h for approximately 1 hour, on 1 litre of tap water... He also told me that so far he had converted over 100 cars there to run on water since he first invented it.
I was originally a car mechanic for 15 years, so I know my engines inside out, and I inspected it, I drove it, and it works.
The man was a genius, god rest his soul, and a brilliant mechanic, scientist and engineer. He had done a lot of fuel saving modifications in the first place to make the engine run more efficiently.
He showed me a neat little trick whereby you hacksaw a grove about 1mm down from the top end of a spark plug, the threaded bit that screws into the head, cut the grove just over half way around the outer circumference of the threaded part. You then bend that part up, drill a small hole down the centre electrode and put a small round-headed screw in the middle, and then bend the outer bit that you cut previously up again and you have something which looks almost identical to the ever-lasting spark-plug which was first patented many years ago, yet still isn't being used by the car manufacturers.
He also used his EMF Oil treatment which is a plant-derived synthetic oil additive which reduces the coefficient of friction to almost zero in any mechanical device which is lubricated with oil. No air filter and he had slightly modified the air intake to let more air in past the throttle valve and to incorporate the HHO gas feed pipe.
The timing needs to be set to after TDC instead of before TDC i.e. if it's normally 8 degrees before TDC start somewhere around 8 degrees after TDC... and you also need to work out a way to eliminate the waste spark if your engine has one, i.e. if it sparks on the exhaust cycle as well as the compression cycle and most 4-stroke petrol engines do. The waste spark doesn't matter on petrol engines... but with HHO it's a completely different kettle of fish.
Also, as HHO gas burns much hotter you need hardened valve seats or you'll soon burn them out running on pure HHO gas. LPG engines should be a lot easier to work with and convert as they should have hardened valve seats in them already.
He also explained to me that most of the extra gadgets fitted under the bonnet were simply red-herrings to throw people off the scent and confuse them; like the three large solenoids at near the front of the engine - they were just fitted there for show and didn't actually do anything.
I've done my bit... now it's up to you...
Good Luck! ...and be careful out there... it really is a mad, mad, mad world!!!
All the best, Ethos Pete...
e: ethospete AT gmail.com