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Thread: Daniel Dingel's Honeycomb-Separator

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  1. #1
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    Lightbulb Daniel Dingel's Honeycomb-Separator

    Daniel Dingel converted his first car to run on ordinary tap water way back in 1968! He showed me a government white paper showing a 5-year recovery contingency plan if he was to have released his technology back then. He was given $1 million to 'continue his research' but to then just take people out for rides in his water-powered car; but not to tell anyone how it actually worked... And I promised him that I wouldn't release this information until after he had passed on and left this world.


    Thousands of people, from all over the world, trying to discover his secret visited him almost daily... If you look closely at the picture above, he had written the instructions on how it works under the bonnet:

    H2+O+[12V+HONEYCOMB SEPARATOR+H2O+SPARK]= ENERGY CALORIES

    And, as always, clearly hidden in plain view!



    The HONEYCOMB-SEPARATOR is the key

    The NEODYMIUM MAGNETS + BISMUTH make up the core...


    They thought (hoped) that he'd taken his secrets to the grave with him...


    So there's the formula and the main pieces of the puzzle... who out there is going to be the first person to replicate Daniel Dingel's 'HONEYCOMB-HHO-SEPARATOR'..?

    Another very big clue is that it also generates electricity... You put 12v of electricity into the unit and it disassociates the water molecules and gives out the HHO gas... but, if you disconnect it from the car battery, it then gives out electricity... so it's a two way reactor.

    Water and electricity in... and you get HHO gas out...

    Put just water in... and you then get electricity out...

    Daniel told me that by connecting one of these units to an inverter, to step up the output voltage, and simply filling it up with water, it would then power a small fridge or TV for several months, he said approximately three to four months... He didn't say, but I presume that after that time you just had to fill it up with some more water again...

    With the unit out of the car and sat on the ground with water in it he had an electric car lamp (12v) and when he connected it to the unit and put one connection on a probe and put it inside and touched it on the main flat honeycomb mesh inside of the unit the lamp lit.

    And the unit was definitely running on pure tap water as he filled it from the mains water supply, and I even put my finger in and tasted it, just to make 100% sure... and it was ordinary pure tap water with no electrolyte.

    He did also say that if fresh water isn't readily available it will work just as well with sea water... and that the car would drive at 70km/h for approximately 1 hour, on 1 litre of tap water... He also told me that so far he had converted over 100 cars there to run on water since he first invented it.

    I was originally a car mechanic for 15 years, so I know my engines inside out, and I inspected it, I drove it, and it works.

    The man was a genius, god rest his soul, and a brilliant mechanic, scientist and engineer. He had done a lot of fuel saving modifications in the first place to make the engine run more efficiently.

    He showed me a neat little trick whereby you hacksaw a grove about 1mm down from the top end of a spark plug, the threaded bit that screws into the head, cut the grove just over half way around the outer circumference of the threaded part. You then bend that part up, drill a small hole down the centre electrode and put a small round-headed screw in the middle, and then bend the outer bit that you cut previously up again and you have something which looks almost identical to the ever-lasting spark-plug which was first patented many years ago, yet still isn't being used by the car manufacturers.


    He also used his EMF Oil treatment which is a plant-derived synthetic oil additive which reduces the coefficient of friction to almost zero in any mechanical device which is lubricated with oil. No air filter and he had slightly modified the air intake to let more air in past the throttle valve and to incorporate the HHO gas feed pipe.

    The timing needs to be set to after TDC instead of before TDC i.e. if it's normally 8 degrees before TDC start somewhere around 8 degrees after TDC... and you also need to work out a way to eliminate the waste spark if your engine has one, i.e. if it sparks on the exhaust cycle as well as the compression cycle and most 4-stroke petrol engines do. The waste spark doesn't matter on petrol engines... but with HHO it's a completely different kettle of fish.

    Also, as HHO gas burns much hotter you need hardened valve seats or you'll soon burn them out running on pure HHO gas. LPG engines should be a lot easier to work with and convert as they should have hardened valve seats in them already.

    He also explained to me that most of the extra gadgets fitted under the bonnet were simply red-herrings to throw people off the scent and confuse them; like the three large solenoids at near the front of the engine - they were just fitted there for show and didn't actually do anything.

    I've done my bit... now it's up to you...

    Good Luck! ...and be careful out there... it really is a mad, mad, mad world!!!

    All the best, Ethos Pete...

    e: ethospete AT gmail.com

  2. #2
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    The NEODYMIUM MAGNETS + BISMUTH make up the core...
    Where did Dingel ever mention the Neodymium magnets and how are they incorporated in the Bismuth honeycomb?

    http://www.yet2.com/app/list/techpak...0&page=tpprint
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by myoldyourgold View Post
    Where did Dingel ever mention the Neodymium magnets and how are they incorporated in the Bismuth honeycomb?

    http://www.yet2.com/app/list/techpak...0&page=tpprint
    He wasn't allowed to mention it anywhere as I stated in the heading above... I visited him on March 28th 2008 at his home in the Philippines.

    When you look in the top of the unit you can see the honeycomb grid, about 2/3 of the way down inside the unit, sat horizontally above the core below.

    He told me that a good scientist, with a good understanding of physics and metallurgy, would be able to crack it from the information above. I'm just the messenger and an ex-car mechanic... I'm unfortunately not a scientist or an expert in metallurgy.

    He said bismuth is the key... from the discussion below, maybe the core is a series of blocks of bismuth and neodymium magnets put together in a certain configuration and the honeycomb above is made out of some other metal. Or if the honeycomb is made of bismuth and then the magnets are below that.

    I found a discussion on overunity.com on the subject of neodymium magnets and bismuth so maybe they might be able to shed some more light on the matter as they were discussing the possible applications of using bismuth with neodymium magnets. Like I said, I'm unfortunately not a scientist.

    http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=10727.0

    Bismuth, Diamagnetism and magnetism
    « on: May 13, 2011, 01:37:24 AM »
    Instead of using magnets opposing one another, is it possible to use neodymium magnets opposed by Bismuth arrays in an attempt to perform useful work?

    Bismuth is very strongly diamagnetic (which is to say it creates a magnetic field in opposition to an externally applied magnetic field).

    I would be interested to know if such arrays (in certain configurations) might prevent back-emf?

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    Bismuth, Diamagnetism and magnetism
    « on: May 13, 2011, 01:37:24 AM »
    Sponsored links:


    quantumtangles
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    Posts: 105

    Re: Bismuth, Diamagnetism and magnetism
    « Reply #1 on: May 13, 2011, 01:43:00 AM »
    I was thinking for example about using Bismuth as a 'dielectric' in a neodymium sandwich and wondered what would happen in that event.
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    Re: Bismuth, Diamagnetism and magnetism
    « Reply #1 on: May 13, 2011, 01:43:00 AM »
    quantumtangles
    Full Member

    Posts: 105

    Re: Bismuth, Diamagnetism and magnetism
    « Reply #2 on: May 13, 2011, 06:01:59 PM »
    Could any configuration of bismuth and neodymium possibly be used to create that almost mythical creature, the magnetic monopole?

    - 0 -

    ...I think you can actually buy ready-made shielded magnets now..?

    All the best

    Ethos Pete...

  4. #4
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    Thank you. I had seen that thread on overunity and have done some limited research on bismuth which I have some ideas of my own on how to use it in conjunction with a gas conditioner which has neodymium magnets in it. Now after reading your post I might do some more research and see if I can do some simple testing to confirm what you have suggested. Thanks again.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  5. #5
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    ethospete

    Wonderfull post thanks.

  6. #6
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    Shielded Magnets

    Many thanks and it's my pleasure... Good luck!

    Maybe also try adding some Bismuth to the shield here...


    As he says in the video, both wheels need to have teeth to maintain the correct alignment... That might mean that they have to be aligned exactly, or slightly offset by one or two teeth...

    Also, I'd suggest having the whole unit built horizontally, instead of vertically as depicted in the video.

    I reckon it's getting very close now to something that will actually work!

    I think that shielding is the key and that they deliberately only ever gave us conventional North-South magnets as they won't work as standard.

    These new programmable magnets might somehow be useful too...

    All the best

    Ethos Pete...

    P.S. I've just put together a new facebook page with links to all the most interesting videos etc. that I've ever found on free energy devices.

    http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Et...13698195311575

  7. #7
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    In one of his video, he said. From12vdc to Ignition coil AC then its goes DC thru the system.....I think the electrical system is not a straight thru and has something to do with it.

  8. #8
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    As Mr. Dingle said, From 12volts dc to ignition coil ac then convert to dc thru the system. Might possible to have inverter using ignition coil then step-down converter dc.

  9. #9
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    That statement of his is confusing because in one of his videos he does a bench test of the system on a car battery no AC coil there? (from what you can see)

  10. #10
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    There has been more than one contradictory statement made by Dingle. I have not been able to determine if it was because he changed some of his methods over the years, or if it was to mislead, or just him getting forgetful as he got older. None the less there are obviously enough people that assisted him who should be aware of exactly what he did, not to mention the actual car and device. Who is in control of all of that? If this is truly a working water car, and I have no real evidence that it isn't, then who is holding up the information now and why? I have read all of his reasons but they no longer apply. Even though the research is interesting and might turn up something, I see no reason to spend more time until there is better verifiable evidence to support Dingles claims. It is like looking for a lost gold mine that actually might exist but also might not.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

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