New Member///New install

[myoldyourgold]

I will have to look into that......I hope it does lol.....im more than happy how its gone but why settle for silver if you can have gold

Is the injection timing something you have done myoldyourgold ?

Yes many times with excellent to mediocre results but always better. I must warn you to do a very little at a time. Some engines are very touchy. If it is to much it will be hard to start or worse will not start. I have not had a problem with 1º to 1.5º retard and have gone as high as 2.5º. Make sure you are retarding and not advancing the pump injection timing. Some pumps are not moveable and the timing is done on the coupler or gear/chain drive mechanism which is just to complicated and time consuming. On some engines it makes a big difference but on others it is just measurable. I am still working on much larger engines to see if with a reduction in the amount of fuel injected and a significant increase in HHO how much retard will be necessary and still be able to start especially in cold weather with direct injection engines and get gains with no loss of power. I wish I could say it is simple. It is not!!

It is all very expensive to change the volume of fuel injected. This requires some heavy equipment and removing the pump. Injector pressure also plays a part in all of this. I will be posting some interesting results in the spring after some winter testing in the frozen north.

[BioFarmer93]

Carter & T-man,
I don't know how many times I've remembered this only to forget it again when I'm in front of the computer, but finally the two coincide! A way to get finer fuel atomization upon injection AND slightly retard the timing is to have your injectors shimmed to raise the pop pressure by a few hundred psi. Almost any competent diesel shop can shim and pop-match your injectors for you. Some shops are too lazy to pop-match your injectors, and will tell you that it's not necessary. If you encounter this attitude just smile and say "OK, thanks", grab your injectors and find another shop. Usually it'll be an old timer that just looks at you and says "how close you want 'em?" To which you reply "Absolutely as close as you can get 'em, I'm tunin' for mileage". Don't mention the HHO because he may or may not think you're a crackpot and not bother to do a good job.

[myoldyourgold]

Here is one similar to the one I use. I do this myself. I picked mine up cheap at a farm sale where most people did not know what it was. Increased pressure increases diesel noise/knock and a decrease of pressure lowers the diesel noise. Bio is right about getting a slight retard by increasing the pressure. When you do both you must remember this.

[TRANSIT_MAN]

Here are some pics of the type of pump on my truck.....does it look as tho it could be retarded

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TRANS...#ht_500wt_1287

[myoldyourgold]

T Man, this pump is highly adjustable both for fuel and for timing. Here is a link for how to do it. I have not done one of these pumps but I am sure you can do just about anything with this puppy.

http://mebonty.monobasin.net/vepump.html

Close to the bottom of the page you will find this:


Injection Pump Timing

This task requires the following:

Appropriate hand tools
Manufacturer's special tools (static-timing adapter, dial indicator)
Manufacturer's service manual

VE injection pump timing is performed with the engine off. Despite the fact that it is used by several engine manufacturers, the timing process is basically the same. What must be measured is the amount of injection pump plunger travel at a specific point (usually engine TDC), Figure 35.

Prepare the vehicle according to the service manual. Check to be sure valve timing and timing belt tension are properly set. Remove the screw plug in the hydraulic head and mount the static timing adaptor in the pump, Figure 36. Rotate the crankshaft to the specified reading, then rotate the crankshaft (usually counterclockwise) until the dial indicator stops moving. Zero gauge the pointer and rotate the crankshaft clockwise to the specified position and note the dial indicator reading, Figure 37. (The reading should be withing specifications. If it is less than specified, timing is retarded. Greater than specified, timing is advanced.)

If it is necessary to adjust the timing, loosen the pump mounting nuts (bolts) and rotate the pump to the desired reading. Tighten the nuts (bolts) and check timing. Be sure to remove special tools and replace the screw plug. install any other components removed. Check the idle speed and adjust if necessary.

[TRANSIT_MAN]

Wow thanks for that info (and your time spent) Myoldyourgold I will look into getting the tools together and having a crack at it.

Ok todays update.............
I added another teaspoon of KOH flakes and made some of my pipe runs shorter.....went and filled her up with diesel and set off on the same run as the last time.......i set the pwm to max for the trip and it was peaking @19.6 amp.....Now today was bad weather with very very strong wind (not the best of days to do a mpg test )
ok returned and filled her back up again..........returned to do the maths ....

Now i was thinking that due to the driving wind & rain that i would have a drop in mpg but i got...........(drum roll please)........43.8 mpg......but what about all this extra heat that adding extra electolyte causes i hear about.......well it was all cool to the touch

So guys what do you all think......do i add a little more & go for gold or should i just call it a day.........im more of a if you never try you'll never know type of guy

[myoldyourgold]

Wow thanks for that info (and your time spent) Myoldyourgold I will look into getting the tools together and having a crack at it.

Ok todays update.............
I added another teaspoon of KOH flakes and made some of my pipe runs shorter.....went and filled her up with diesel and set off on the same run as the last time.......i set the pwm to max for the trip and it was peaking @19.6 amp.....Now today was bad weather with very very strong wind (not the best of days to do a mpg test )
ok returned and filled her back up again..........returned to do the maths ....

Now i was thinking that due to the driving wind & rain that i would have a drop in mpg but i got...........(drum roll please)........43.8 mpg......but what about all this extra heat that adding extra electolyte causes i hear about.......well it was all cool to the touch

So guys what do you all think......do i add a little more & go for gold or should i just call it a day.........im more of a if you never try you'll never know type of guy

Your very welcome. I would suggest you invest in a hydrometer they are cheap. This way you can share exactly how rich the electrolyte is and be able to duplicate it every time. This will also give us an idea on how much further you can go. By the way your pump is very adjustable and you can even change the volume of diesel injected to some extent and then raise the amount of HHO. All this has its limits though. Small steps until you find the sweet spot. Excellent work. Keep it up.

[TRANSIT_MAN]

Thanks again
on your advise hydrometer is on its way ....i will post results when i have them. I understand that the magic number is 28 ? KOH Still trying to get my head around perfect amps

[myoldyourgold]

Yes 28 % by weight but on the hydrometer scale it will be 1.2609

http://www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/spc...i?submit=Entry

[TRANSIT_MAN]

Your a star