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Thread: Dry cell nozzles

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  1. #1

    Dry cell nozzles

    Hey all! I'm having problems with my hho dry cell, in attaching the nozzle to the cell (the connection is a threaded nozzle on one end and barbed on the other). The threaded side goes onto the cell and the barbed side to the hose (probably obvious). So I'm having trouble connecting the nozzle to the plastic cell plates. How do you guys do it?

    Here's what I've tried:
    First I used small plastic nozzles and glued it in, but eventually it would leak. Then I tried brass ones with a different kind of glue (first set I used liquid electrical tape and marine goop, then I used Gorilla glue). It seems like every glue I used would eventually disintegrate in the KOH solution. Using brass nozzles probably wasn't a very good idea either since I think they were touching the plates and making a bit of HHO.

    Any ideas appreciated!! Thanks!

  2. #2
    Pictures of any of your systems would also help.

    My main concern is securely attaching the nozzle to the plastic plates while taking up minimal space and trying to avoid glues. (unless you know of a glue that's unaffected by KOH)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    164
    I use plastic barbed connections, threaded into the plastic and secured with marine 'GOOP'. Nice tight hose clamp around the hose connections as well. Works just fine in the 1lb of NaOH per gallon of water I'm running.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    NorthEast Fla.
    Posts
    988
    I'm going to proceed under the assumption that this is not a joke-


    There is a tool called a "tap" and it looks somewhat like a bolt, but with vertical grooves cut out of the threads in several places. Purchase a tap that has the same thread size as your fitting (barbed & threaded nozzel). You place the tap at the hole opening and turn it clockwise to cut threads into the plastic. Be sure to carefully position it vertically when you start the hole. Also, after you have taken 4 full turns into the plastic with it, back it out 1/2 turn, then proceed clockwise again for 1-1/2 turns, back out 1/2 turn again, then forward 1-1/2. Repeat, etc.. Do not "bury" the tap into the plastic, leave 1/4" of cutting threads above the face of the hole to insure a good tight fit and seal on your fitting.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #5
    I apologize for my stupidity, but thank-you very much

    (it was not a joke, i did not know those things existed; you have helped me in defeating my ignorance!)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    NorthEast Fla.
    Posts
    988
    My friend, do not confuse stupidity with a simple case of method-ignorance. You were smart enough to ask, and now you know. We all have our areas of expertise and ignorance, and I'm glad to help.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by BioFarmer93 View Post
    Do not "bury" the tap into the plastic, leave 1/4" of cutting threads above the face of the hole to insure a good tight fit and seal on your fitting.
    Did you follow the last bit of Bio's advice?
    With a taper tap, the cut thread gets "looser" as you near the top of the tap.

    Ive used teflon tape and a liquid teflon sealant at different times, either one worked OK for me, but I started with "tight" threads. I didn't need to use any glue.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    164
    if you use 1/4" tap you need to use 3/8" npt fittings. using 1/4 fittings with a 1/4" tap will not give you a tight seal. And some of us learned this the hard way.

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