Brown water

[Madsceintist]

Any way you can post a pic of this unit ? Sounds a little much with the silly-con. Honestly if I need to use a sealer I like windsheild butale. Small amounts and you can almost break your parts before the sealer.

A TEST......... With gloves, take that brown muk and put in a flat dish. Let dry, then add to a small plant(potted plant as in isolated). In a week or so or month, see if the plants alive or not. If dead, then i'd say its safe to say that its most likely toxic! If to plants then definitely to us.
* Of course take care of the plant as normal!

As far as the pump idea, unless you produce more then 5 lpm and can pressurize and intend on not using gas, you wont have a need for pumping to the intake. Seriously. Vacuum alone will do all you need. Just matters where you insert the feed. The size line, vacuum source area, and NO vacuum leaks are important. Most carburetors, throttle bodys have ported vacuum outlets for various things; vacuum advance, dashpots, servos, solenoids, ehr (exhaust heat riser), ETC. . So you can do what most do and tap into a large vacuum line with a tee or tap into a ported smaller line that is only operational as you apply the accelerator such as the advance to the distributor.

[Left-handed individual]

Sorry for the late reply. As of now I can't post any pics..having ttouble uploading them.so far I've had it running for almost a month.. it was doing good.. seeing Gaines of 2-4 mpg and a noticeable increase in throtle response. Now it is definitely brown water.. and due to me not securing it in place as I should have it nearly fell of during a bumpy ride.. im gonna open it up.. clean it up.. and keep on keeping on.

I'm gonna take your advice and use what you recommended to seal it up.. i only used silicone cause I had plenty of that stuff laying around... But its not as effective as it should be.

I've been trying to find a thread for cleaning and conditioning stainless steel.. I could really brush up on some of that knowledge.

I'll do that test with a plant.. I can get one for a few cents at home depot since I'm a cashier and am always hooking everyone up. Sure enough I sealed up all leaks and eliminated any need for a pump.. thinking about doing that T thing cause as of now I plug in The hose where the bypass hose runs through. I don't know the proper name.. but i think it recycles some of the exhaust back into the Intake.. thats what I was told but when I clog it with my finger for about 10 seconds it has a negative vaccine of its own. Either way I re route that one to face the radiator fan incase it is drawing air and plug in the HHO hose where that one should go and have been seeing results.

-NOTE; we all know that HHO is produced on demand... At first mine wasn't like that. I have a 30 amp relay I salvaged of a power wheel and for a while that was it. No fuse or switch. I had to open the hood to turn it off or on. Then I put a switch and noticed that's when it started producing more as the rpm rose. I figured it was the need of the fuse.. my switch is acting as w fuse I guess cause its 20 amps. Before I would accelerate and production was the same.. after adding the switch it started working like a real HHO booster should.
Is this really simply the work of the switch? I have made no other adjustments.

[hhofox]

Hmmm... It sounds like things are getting better for you -happy to hear that!
To cut back on/eliminate the brown water, be sure to used distilled water and not exceed .5amps per sq inch of your plates. I have been told that you should not exceed .25amps per sq inch if the plates are not 316L.

The conditioning info is here on this forum. Just use the search feature and you will be in business.

It seems like you are saying that you used a T between the PCV valve and Intake Manifold. That will get you results, but can put too much pressure on your reactor and bubbler. I'd regulate it with some sort of lock-off, if I were you.


Also, it seems like you left something disconnected. You said you turned it towards the radiator fan. Please explain that a bit more. The switch and relay bit is a bit hazy too...or is it just me?

[aceras624]

Sorry for the late reply. As of now I can't post any pics..having ttouble uploading them.so far I've had it running for almost a month.. it was doing good.. seeing Gaines of 2-4 mpg and a noticeable increase in throtle response. Now it is definitely brown water.. and due to me not securing it in place as I should have it nearly fell of during a bumpy ride.. im gonna open it up.. clean it up.. and keep on keeping on.

I'm gonna take your advice and use what you recommended to seal it up.. i only used silicone cause I had plenty of that stuff laying around... But its not as effective as it should be.

I've been trying to find a thread for cleaning and conditioning stainless steel.. I could really brush up on some of that knowledge.

I'll do that test with a plant.. I can get one for a few cents at home depot since I'm a cashier and am always hooking everyone up. Sure enough I sealed up all leaks and eliminated any need for a pump.. thinking about doing that T thing cause as of now I plug in The hose where the bypass hose runs through. I don't know the proper name.. but i think it recycles some of the exhaust back into the Intake.. thats what I was told but when I clog it with my finger for about 10 seconds it has a negative vaccine of its own. Either way I re route that one to face the radiator fan incase it is drawing air and plug in the HHO hose where that one should go and have been seeing results.

-NOTE; we all know that HHO is produced on demand... At first mine wasn't like that. I have a 30 amp relay I salvaged of a power wheel and for a while that was it. No fuse or switch. I had to open the hood to turn it off or on. Then I put a switch and noticed that's when it started producing more as the rpm rose. I figured it was the need of the fuse.. my switch is acting as w fuse I guess cause its 20 amps. Before I would accelerate and production was the same.. after adding the switch it started working like a real HHO booster should.
Is this really simply the work of the switch? I have made no other adjustments.

are you saying you steal from home depot????

also if youre seeing MORE production apon acceleration, youre alternator is the problem. It needs higher revs to maintain voltage which increases your production

[Left-handed individual]

-hhofox. Thanks sure was making some good progress there. How can you tell if you have 316L stainless steel? And excuse my ignorance my expertise has never been anywhere close to this but is that a purity level or thickness of the piece of steel?
No I haven't used any T.. and I will be buying a cold air intake which has an extra port in which I can connect the hose from the HHO withought changing or replacing anything else.. its perfect.
What I was talking about I believe only applies to fuel-injected vehicles. On the intake of my particular car there are two hose or lines connected to it. 1 is for the idle air control valve which is connected to the throttle body. The other one connects from the intake to the opposite side of the engine into the valve cover. Daam it I wish I could upload pics.
So what I did here since I didn't connect a T onto this hose (which is plastic not rubber) or anything else is I just simply removed it from the intake and turned it to face the front of the car towards the fan. Its either a bypass re-routing some air to the oxygen sensors... Or recycling exhaust back into the intake. By the way not all fuel-injected vehicles have that.

About the relay this is how it was primarily set up.
First off the negative was directly connected from the battery to the cell.. directly.
The positive went from the battery to what I 'believe' (not to to sure anymore) to h a 30 amp relay. I know its 30 amps and its a little square black box with two wires coming out. It doesn't specify if its an amp or relay but I would connect a 30 amp fuse and it'll always blow.. I blew 3.. one when the cell was cold one when warm and one when at the max. This is still working till this day.
So I had it like this and wether the rpm be 650 or 5000 production was the same... Or slightly barely better but pretty much the same.

Then I left the negative the same... And added the switch to the positive.
I now have the positive set up from the battery to the 'relay' and from there to a 20 amp switch.. then directly to the cell. That's it. after simply adding the switch between the 'relay' and the cell it started producing more gas as the rpm rose.
Most beautiful thing I ever saw.
I hope this helps you understand what's going on under my car's hood better.


-aceras624. No I do not steal from home depot I'm a cashier and a Daam honest one too. Whenever the store marks down items we can simply give each other heads up to purchase them for a cheap price before some customers do. As a matter of fact I found a 100 dollar bill today and did the right thing and turned it in to bookkeeping. Besides.. there are high quality cameras that literally see everything and home depot will prosecute. I already have a record and grew up in a gang I've been there done that I'm turning over a new leaf... Slowly but surely.

Anyway my alternator is good. It has been In the same condition since I bought the car a little more than a year ago and I'm sure it didnt break or get fixed up in 1 hour which is how long it took me to simply add the switch and not have any contact with the alternator.

4.6L fuel injected V8 and seeing noticeable gains in power and a few Mpg at producing only 1/2L of HHO at idle. Now that production speeds up with rpm I don't know how that will affect mpg and performance... but for Now my cell is out of commission until I repair it.
(please excuse any typos.. small smart phone keyboard... too lazy to go back up and correct all the errors)

[Left-handed individual]

By the way I use no map enhancer or PWM or any other add on.