discouraged

[doug2168]

went and got a spark plug non-fouler and spent a while drilling and grinding it out. got 2 of them in one pack from o'reilly auto parts for 3.99. made a good fit for the o2 sensor. installed it.

made 4 more plates today too. installed them. mixed 1/2 tablespoon of sodium hydroxide with water. started out @ 5 amp draw cold. sealed booster. checked for leaks. filled gas tank at a late night station. drove a total of 32.9 miles round trip on the interstate right back to the same pump i used before. topped to brim just like before and it only took .6 gals. that's 54.8 mpg!!!!! YAY! up from 38 mpg with no mods. i have no idea what percentage this is. i'm guessing close to 40%.

now, what about the IAT, MAP, and other mods? i wonder.

thanks for the help and encouragement y'all. it's much appreciated!

i still have somewhat of a bubbler problem but, to just know this works and i'm over a big hump is great!!!

[Stratous]

Wow, I am happy for u. Wish I could get those gains on my truck.

[doug2168]

ran all day today no problems. booster still seemed hot but current draw was good all day to and from work. one hour each way. gonna see about getting an IR thermometer. saw one at harbor freight for 29.99 and good up to something like 450 degrees F.

cleaned booster out tonight and walgreens had distilled on sale buy 2 get one free. so i got 3 gals for 2.00. i bet it runs cooler than ever with distilled. i noticed that filling to my fill mark with it and using the same amount of sodium hydroxide drew less current. i guess that's from no junk in the water to be conductive.

i'm concerned about heat because i don't want a melt down. i can still touch it with bare hands, unfasten it and remove it from the engine compartment. so, i guess it's not too bad. just want to be sure about it. i may try and stop by a repair shop on the way home tomorrow afternoon and see if i can borrow someone's IR thermometer. i just want to see how hot it really is. i was only pulling 10 amps this afternoon. i noticed it went up with the a/c on and when i shut that off the draw went down. i attribute that to heat.

no big problems though.

[Stratous]

Sounds to me like its working as its supposed to. 10 amps is good and the heat doesnt sound bad at all. When my gen reaches 140 degrees I can stick my finger in the water, but it hurts just a little bit. Sounds to me like your gen is prolly not that hot although everyones tolerance for pain is different. 140 degrees can cause 3rd degree burns in 5 seconds, so I would imagine that your prolly running cooler than 140.

[Ronjinsan]

I have been looking at your photos Doug and only have one small tip that may help! Take your cell apart and straighten the plates better, Remeber you will get max production from the parts that are closest together.......which is a bad thing with warped plates, as the wider parts of the plates produce less! If I have bad plates I hammer them and bend them with pliers until they are straight...Cheers

[crew02]

went and got a spark plug non-fouler and spent a while drilling and grinding it out. got 2 of them in one pack from o'reilly auto parts for 3.99. made a good fit for the o2 sensor. installed it.

made 4 more plates today too. installed them. mixed 1/2 tablespoon of sodium hydroxide with water. started out @ 5 amp draw cold. sealed booster. checked for leaks. filled gas tank at a late night station. drove a total of 32.9 miles round trip on the interstate right back to the same pump i used before. topped to brim just like before and it only took .6 gals. that's 54.8 mpg!!!!! YAY! up from 38 mpg with no mods. i have no idea what percentage this is. i'm guessing close to 40%.

now, what about the IAT, MAP, and other mods? i wonder.

thanks for the help and encouragement y'all. it's much appreciated!

i still have somewhat of a bubbler problem but, to just know this works and i'm over a big hump is great!!!

What did ya do with the spark plugs you drilled out?

[tbhavsar]

went and got a spark plug non-fouler and spent a while drilling and grinding it out. got 2 of them in one pack from o'reilly auto parts for 3.99. made a good fit for the o2 sensor. installed it.

made 4 more plates today too. installed them. mixed 1/2 tablespoon of sodium hydroxide with water. started out @ 5 amp draw cold. sealed booster. checked for leaks. filled gas tank at a late night station. drove a total of 32.9 miles round trip on the interstate right back to the same pump i used before. topped to brim just like before and it only took .6 gals. that's 54.8 mpg!!!!! YAY! up from 38 mpg with no mods. i have no idea what percentage this is. i'm guessing close to 40%.

now, what about the IAT, MAP, and other mods? i wonder.

thanks for the help and encouragement y'all. it's much appreciated!

i still have somewhat of a bubbler problem but, to just know this works and i'm over a big hump is great!!!

Why spark plug? What & Why drilling and grinding was used? please explain little bit.

[doug2168]

sorry it took so long to get back to you all.

the spark plug anti-foulers can be had at any auto arts store locally instead of waiting to get the actual O2 sensor extenders that are already machined to your O2 sensor.

the roblem with the anti-foulers is they are not hollow all the through so you would need to either grind them to fit your O2 sensor or drill them with a 1/2" drill bit.

next thing is the O2 sensor extenders DO NOT work on all cars. only some peole have reorted them to actually work. what i've found out to hapen myself is this. i installed one, topped off, drove for a bit, went back and toped off again and did my calcs. i had a gain. i drove the rest of the tank for a week and was right back to my normal mpg. it seems from reading all over the internet, that what winds up haening, you may get some initial gains, but they're lost over time because the newer vehicles will learn about your hack, reset themselves in some way shape or form and go back to functioning as if everything is stock again and there are no mods.

i'm finding out that the only way to trick the newer cars is to get a baseline IPW (injector ulse width) using a scan tool and adjust IAT, MAP, ECT, and O2. adjust one at a time using resistors, and circuits to either up or drop signal voltages.

i started with IAT this week and will see how that goes. i am borrowing a friends scan tool that gives me all of the needed data in terms of IPW and what not so when i make a change i'm looking for a drop in IPW. i don't want to go too lean because that can do some serious damage to my engine. too much of anything is no good.

good luck to you all! this is a lot of work on these newer cars but the learning exerience in itself is GREAT!!! no one can ever take away the knowledge i have learned but, they can take away my house, my cars and my money.....the know ledge is here to stay....at least until i get "oldtimers". ;-)

[porkchop]

It is my understanding the oxygen sensor is on the exhaust manifold. Obviously measures oxygen. If your injection point is past the MAP sensor, and injected directly into the intake manifold (below the butterfly valve), wouldn't just the oxygen sensor come into play as far as what's measured by your PCM (power contol module)? I have a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee, the place that gathers and processes the sensor info is the PCM (FYI).
Now, I haven't tried mine yet, but while we are on this oxy sensor thing, thought I'd ask. How would you go about tricking the O2 sensor?

[Johnh]

The first place to start is actually try the unit on your car and see what the results are before trying any of the o2sensor mods.
The next thing is to make small steps in modifying the output.
If you make too much of a difference to the output of the o2 sensor the computer will just assume it is faulty and go into the full rich mode so as not to damage the engine, and leave the poor guy doing the mods wondering why his generator isn't working. It is otherwise your fuel consumption would really go up.
Regards
John