First HHO drycell, open to advice :)

[aceras624]

So Ive started my first HHO dry cell and im open to advice.

30 amp PWM
29 pcs of 316L SS 6"x6"
-6N+6N-6N+6N-
1/16" thick rubber gaskets 1/2" wide
1"PVC front/back with threaded 3/8 barbed fittings
3 quart resevoir
1 quart bubbler
1/8 delivery line into air intake
30 amp ammeter
25amp fuse and proper wiring
enough KOH to pull up to 20-28 amps
pics soon

Ive got all the parts and will take pics soon so you guys can tear me apart
I made a similar "proof od concept" dry cell with ss wall plate covers so im moving on up to full scale.
going on my 3L V6 DOHC 2003 Ford Escape XLS (green

[Havens78]

You might consider also doing a search on plate preparation and secondary reservoir. These 2 things can make all the difference in the world when it comes to efficiency.

[aceras624]

efficiency is KEY for me. I plan on cleaning the plate with vinegar before puttin it together but I dont want to scuff the surface. I feel ill be able to get enough surface area for this project without removing any of the SS. what is the point of the second resevoir?

[BioFarmer93]

Would you mind elaborating a little on the smooth plate theory?

[aceras624]

by sanding the SS plates, you increase surface area for HHO production. In time the HHO production will eventually remove some of the material. I feel that I dont need the "boost" of production by having a sanded surface and would rather keep the material I would be sanding away for the HHO production to eventually remove on its own

[myoldyourgold]

by sanding the SS plates, you increase surface area for HHO production. In time the HHO production will eventually remove some of the material. I feel that I dont need the "boost" of production by having a sanded surface and would rather keep the material I would be sanding away for the HHO production to eventually remove on its own

What you are going to find is that the bubbles will not release as efficiently as they do on a cross hatched sanded or media blasted surface. What happens is that some of the bubbles grow in size stuck on the smooth surface and block the bubbles below and also insulate the surface of both plates forcing the current to flow on the outside of the bubble which will cause excess amps in a ring on the the plates. If the bubble is stuck long enough it will leave a mark in the shape of a ring which will be darker in color than the rest of the plate. The sharp points of the cross sanding and media blasting force the bubbles to release quickly and when they are smaller. This has been tested and verified by scientists with equipment that you and I can not afford. You will end up with a reactor that will not be as efficient. You will need to put a camera in the cell and watch things. I doubt you have that ability. Some of the material that gets removed in the conditioning process is unwanted parts of the stainless steel when done right. What remains has less resistance and takes centuries to wear out unless you over amp things. Most of us will be dead before it wears out. LOL

[aceras624]

wow! great info. Glad you told me before I put it together. will some 80 grit sandpaper be good enough? Im thinking ill just toss some 80 grit on a pad sander and have at it