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Thread: my dry cell plan

  1. #1
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    my dry cell plan

    ok guys i want to make this dry cell what do you guys think are there any improvments or suggestions? how many amps do u think it would draw? just or how much it would produce off car electrical system?

  2. #2
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    -Unless you have some way to keep the electrolyte level below those slots, just save your Weldon and build unipolar because that thing is gonna leak current like a sieve... Sorry
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  3. #3
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    so what if i alternate a top hole in each plate back and forth like on the botom for the water in ? and then seal the exposed metal outside my gasgets?

  4. #4
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    @Bio
    why are you always all about unipolar cells? Dont they take up a lot of space and I thought no leakage was found as long as weldon is used properly? dont get me wrong, if I want to use 200 amps, unipolar all the way

  5. #5
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    Weld-on minimizes current leakage. It will not stop it 100% if you run in a continual flooded state. I thought we went over this once before but I guess it is another case of my misunderstanding, which I do soooo well. LOL
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by aceras624 View Post
    @Bio
    why are you always all about unipolar cells? Dont they take up a lot of space and I thought no leakage was found as long as weldon is used properly? dont get me wrong, if I want to use 200 amps, unipolar all the way
    Well Ace,
    It's like this.. He wants to build bipolar, but laid out his plates with bigass slots in the tops ala unipolar plates in which you don't have to worry about current skipping all the neutral plates and blasting straight through the slots to the opposite polarity power plate at the other end, got it now?

    -And as for why I'm all about unipolar...
    Well, I'll tell you, and I have never brought this up before in an open forum, and have only responded to it on back channels. I'm the guy that brought the unipolar method out of the shadows. Check my earliest posts on this forum to see what was happening, then check anywhere else on here, other HHO sites, Youtube, what have you... Zero's batt cell, Larry's magnetic Beastie, Iger13's builds... Look at their dates. I didn't discover the method, I simply resurrected it, brought it back into the HHO community consciousness for re-consideration. Unipolar is old tech, albeit slightly more efficient than bipolar, especially poorly designed bipolar reactors with less than 6 neutrals. It IS bigger, it IS bulkier, it IS a more complex build, but there are MANY other applications besides automobiles in which a bigass unipolar reactor is just the ticket. Diesel trucks, diesel pumps, diesel gen-sets, diesel saw mills (Koya) school buses, and applications that don't even come to mind at the moment.
    Does that answer your question sufficiently?
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dswareagle View Post
    so what if i alternate a top hole in each plate back and forth like on the botom for the water in ? and then seal the exposed metal outside my gasgets?
    That sounds like a winner.. The bipolar "standards" have been established for a while now, with incremental improvements along the way that have upped productivity, efficiency, longevity and lowered heating and resistance.

    The keys to building a good bipolar reactor are:

    A. Limit it to two stacks with a no-hole center power plate. This means it has to be fed and vented from each retainer (end) plate.
    B. Media blast your plates.
    C. Stagger all holes.
    D. Use Weldon-16 in and 1/2" around all holes.
    E. Two electrical connection points diagonally located on each power plate.
    F. Holes in power plates are at opposite corners from power connections.
    G. HDPE retainer (end) plates should be at least 3/4" thick.
    H. Unit should be designed around output desired (sq.in. & amps calculated) using full strength electrolyte so that no PWM needs to be used.
    I. Retainer bolts should be no farther than 2" apart and made of S.S..
    J. Electrical connector bolts & nuts should be brass (or if possible copper).
    K. Use an anti-oxidation cream (Noalox or other brands) on all electrical connections.
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  8. #8
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    Bio after following the steps above what kind of output (amps per litre) can be achieved?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Weapon_R View Post
    Bio after following the steps above what kind of output (amps per litre) can be achieved?
    I hesitate to put a definitive number to that question, but would say that you should be able to do a lpm at 13A or there about.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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