Bubbler water levitation

[BALLSCREWPRO]

DIY tube in a tube design bubbler, od50mm, L250, 3 to 5 LMP, small compact and
effective, When unit shut down it'll fill up the inner tube and balance water return back to reservoir.

[Weapon_R]

DIY tube in a tube design bubbler, od50mm, L250, 3 to 5 LMP, small compact and
effective, When unit shut down it'll fill up the inner tube and balance water return back to reservoir.

BALLSCREWPRO very interesting. Never seen or heard of this before. Is this an original concept? Do you have more pics?

[BALLSCREWPRO]

BALLSCREWPRO very interesting. Never seen or heard of this before. Is this an original concept? Do you have more pics?

Yes more new innovations pictures on the wayhttp://www.h2.sg

[myoldyourgold]

If I understand this you are returning the liquid back to the reservoir. That means that the liquid is electrolyte. If this is the case and you have a bubbler this device is just to prevent sucking water out of the bubbler. Is this correct? If it is then it is a clever method to solve that problem. If possible could you explain this a little more to clear this up please. What I am at a loss to understand is why is everyone bubbling their gas though electrolyte and picking up more moisture laden electrolyte. The object is to get the gas totally free of moisture laden electrolyte not put more into it and then have to filter it out. Am I not thinking right. I stopped bubbling my gas through the reservoir years ago. With a bubbler I could never figure out what the advantage was to run the gas through the electrolyte. I can see doing that with no bubbler but then you are just asking for trouble.

[hhofox]

I was wondering why it seemed as if it was being used as a reservoir. Wouldn't it be more useful as a bubbler if it has filtration capabilities?
More info on the design/construction please.

[myoldyourgold]

HHOfox, it would work as a bubbler similar to the dual bubbler design does allowing liquid to go back and forth possibly. It is interesting and once we understand how it actually works could test it.

[BALLSCREWPRO]

This is my durable dry cell 4" 26-316L plates g22, This reactor has been running in my VW caddy nearly 2 years without a single problem and still on it now.
The first time setting up of electrolyte is by adding bit by bit of Koh to tune current to 20 amp cold start. When heated up after few hours the current go up to about 25amp and will stray there.
Plates arrangement +nnnn-nnnn+nnnn-nnnn+nnnn-
The dry cell must be those design with bolts going through the gasket and plates. These are the cells that is difficult to made but will last for years rather than
those o-ring gasket type where you can see the bolt outside and liquid will leak out after heated up

[frodo2222]

Hi myoldyourgold:

Trying to figure out why I am not getting any increase in MPG, got a cell that puts out about 1 liter, got bubbler and a EFFIE and a new PWM that seems to work great. However there is no difference in drive or MPG. The EFFIE is a fuel saver one and one time when I had the switch for a chrysler on rather then off it seemed to make a difference for a short spurt but then the check engine light came on and I also could not change the upstream sensor pot any more then to 90 I believe if memory serves me right.
Any ideas or suggestions?

[Madsceintist]

frodo;
I don't use the EFIE's and such. But I can tell u that if you have a bad or contaminated O'2 sensor, you may not get the results you think if your not getting the correct voltage in the first place from a bad O'2 ! 1, Have you tested the voltage before and after the EFIE? Is it near what it should be? 2, I hear that using an O'2 extender helps? But that's just a shot.

[myoldyourgold]

Hi myoldyourgold:

Trying to figure out why I am not getting any increase in MPG, got a cell that puts out about 1 liter, got bubbler and a EFFIE and a new PWM that seems to work great. However there is no difference in drive or MPG. The EFFIE is a fuel saver one and one time when I had the switch for a chrysler on rather then off it seemed to make a difference for a short spurt but then the check engine light came on and I also could not change the upstream sensor pot any more then to 90 I believe if memory serves me right.
Any ideas or suggestions?

Hard to hit it right every time without knowing all the facts. Here are some problems I see. When you just control the O2 you might get gains and might not. The gains you do get might not last either. The gains could also be very little. Make sure you have .5 LPM for every liter of engine size and no leaks. Leaks are a problem more than not. Next you really need to control the CTS, IAT, MAP/MAF and the O2. Here is an example. If you lean the MAP out and do nothing to the O2, the O2 sensor will pick it up and tell the computer to ad more fuel. Both have to be in sink in order to not throw a code and to get gains. Same with the IAT and CTS. Balance is what is needed between all the sensors in order for the computer to pull the leanest maps the computer will allow. So here is a summary. You must have the right amount of HHO to compensate for the the amount of lean and all the sensors need to be in sink. One can not be lean and another one rich. All have there part to play. There are ranges that the computer will tolerate things being out of sink but the largest gains are not in that small range. One of these days when time permits I will post how each sensor effects the computer and what needs to be done to get the max gains. Some things are still needing more testing before I am comfortable going into detail at this moment.