MyOld,
Is this what you are talking about ==)===> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2012-MOD...8a9621&vxp=mtr
Whats your take on this little gem ==)===> http://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm
MyOld,
Is this what you are talking about ==)===> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2012-MOD...8a9621&vxp=mtr
Whats your take on this little gem ==)===> http://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm
Green Fuel H20.. Dual "38" plate dry cells
Dual Batteries
Dual 50 amp current limiting PWM`s
Dual 6 quart reservoir`s
HHO Connection Mac Daddy Flashback arrestor
Dual HHO Connection Bobbler/arrestor
Green Fuel H20 Dual map sensor enhancer
Fuelsaver-mpg Digital DEFIE
30amp PWM fuel pump voltage controler
Sodbuster;
Sorry took so long. As mygold said try not to use the extenders they're not likely to help as much as they could hurt.
I'm into Fords a bit more than most but I work on everything. Diagnostics, rebuilds, everything related to an automobile. Any type.
A Fords CTS has more control over fuel then any other car I've seen, especially when cold. A bad or poorly working sensor and the car will dump gas! As well as the vortec Chevy's.
TO EVERYONE ...................................
This I've seen to many times to count, on many cars ! Over time the coolant will become electrostatic. Any sensor that is coolant controlled can or will become electrolyte-coated. Thus rendering it less effective to work quickly or correctly. A car that's ran hot, had the coolant turn rusty, had two coolants mixed(Dexcool and Glycol based), which gel up, or a car that has a poor ground circuit and is using the coolant to pass current. You can tell in most cases in how the sensor looks, by pulling it out to look at it. It should be a clean brass color without any residue on it. A white coating or rust, or even a green coating from the coolant should not be present. Nor should it be slimy.
This may not seem important to some of you but I assure you it is. This sensor has to due with your fuel consumption............
19tercel96;
Depending on your driving and what has been done to the car, how much HHO your using, other things factor into how often the computer will "catch onto" whats going on. So it's hard to say what time frame to reset it would be, not that I recommend doing it that way anyhow. There are places that can "build" a program for your app. Its not cheap nor quick. There's a place outside of ATL that does this. I'll get the card out and post it, it'll be a few days. Leaving for Memphis now.
Its done right or its not done !
Hail HHO.
That is what is out there at the moment and that is a dealer that is selling it on eBay. There are a number of other retailers selling it too. The new one will look similar but has 2 more pots and all but one pot will be 25 turn pots and a 16 port connector instead of the 14 on the current model. If you are interested in the new features PM me and I will explain them. It is not ready for public release yet because testing is not completed. There will also be one for diesels that do not have an O2 sensor but will include all the new features. The newer diesels with an O2 will use the same new controller as the gas one.
Use the ultra gauge on every vehicle I can. So far no problems with them. Cheep and reliable.
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."
ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .
Madscientist, In California I have had a car fail the smog test because it was to clean. Now if that is not nuts. It was explained to me that because it was so far out of the norm there had to be something wrong with the equipment or the method of testing so the computer fails it. What a joke!! Of course it would have been failed and fined with visual inspection anyway but that is a different problem.
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."
ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .
Mentor >Scientist great info there I'm following your lead pall
Mentor >My Old, yes sir I am very interested = HHO Electronics EFIE... thanks Budd
Brother > ABS Thanks for Book I need to brush up on my sensor`s and there roll play, I have been out of the game for many years... just one of those things if you don't use it... you loose it, and technology changes every day... just going to have to forgive me if you have to explain things twice.. I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed but I am a tool
Guys you have no Idea how frickin blown away I am with this technology!!
Today = success !!!! Installed the new Dual map sensor enhancer purchased from *****Green Fuel H20***** WOW I am so happy with this set up. Drove all around town today monitoring and adjusting the cell Via the PWM and Dual map sensor enhancer and my fuel gauge never moved
Guys..... thank you, thank you, thank you, I could have not done it without you. Also a very special thanks to "Green Fuel H20" and "HHO Connection"
The service, Emails, that went back and fourth was very professional and there products have got to be one of the best. If you are just a newbie like me and you want to be successful in your build these folks are the best in my book.
OK ..... I'm in,,, full throttle boys I want to make this happen!!! I need a scanner, I'm thinking the Snap on MT 2500 ? I have used this scanner back in the day and I am familiar with it and there is a ton of them on EBay.
Now I see what you guys are constantly talking about with your supply tanks getting WARM/Hot. Bench testing and road condition are not even close, what happened on the bench ... stayed on the bench, road condition are not even close, and the sloshing around in the bubbler after a speed bump no choice to run it less than half full. Also this 6 QT supply tank is awesome but two would even be better, one tank per inlet and outlet on the cell.... cooling is going to be a issue >>>> beginning to see the light you folks have been shedding.... Thanks, Greg
Green Fuel H20.. Dual "38" plate dry cells
Dual Batteries
Dual 50 amp current limiting PWM`s
Dual 6 quart reservoir`s
HHO Connection Mac Daddy Flashback arrestor
Dual HHO Connection Bobbler/arrestor
Green Fuel H20 Dual map sensor enhancer
Fuelsaver-mpg Digital DEFIE
30amp PWM fuel pump voltage controler
Back from Memphis to spend the day with family, instead I have to work on something to take the trip back tomorrow as I blew out the input shaft seal from my SHO's transmission yesterday. However I did get the mileage for use without HHO (21.4), sooner or later I'll get mileage with !!!!!
Just to give everyone my method again, I fill up then drive till it runs out (stalls). This way I'm not off by half gal or so, it's more exact.
Also I am still working on the Toyota donor just slowly. But for HHO supplement I'll be using what i drive daily; 1989 Ford Taurus SHO 3.0v6, 5 speed, Supertuner chip, with a heap of upgrades for road track. I will be making quicker progress with this .............
Mygold;
That's funny.. You'd think they would welcome clean air !
Sodbuster;
I use the red brick(MT 2500) myself. No trouble. I have the updated cartridge's that's reprogrammable for future updates.
Its done right or its not done !
Hail HHO.
Mygold;
When I had my first cell working at peak. My scanner was showing that the O2's were reading ;
B1-S1 40-120 ish,
B1-S2 0-40 ish.
with the fuel pump running at 4.5 volts.
B1-S1 0- 70 ish,
B1-S2 0-0
with the pump cut out completely.
I think that the reading at all without the pump off is due to left over carbon or something still in the intake or oil blow-by. Not sure but the volt meter said 0 volts at the pump and obviously the readings can't lie that there wasn't a presence of fuel.
With the fuel pump running at 12 volts, the readings were as normal;
B1-S1 350 ish to 980 ish,
B1-S2 150 ish to 700 ish,
They drop some with HHO turned on but nothing like when you drop fuel pressure.
Its done right or its not done !
Hail HHO.
Very good information. I need to think about this a little. What vehicle was this in? Were you using a pwm to control the fuel pump? Is this a tank pump? What rpm was the readings taken at? I am going to have a lot of questions. LOL I might be able to answer most of them after doing some thinking and understanding the particular vehicle the test was done on. Excellent data thanks.Mygold;
When I had my first cell working at peak. My scanner was showing that the O2's were reading ;
B1-S1 40-120 ish,
B1-S2 0-40 ish.
with the fuel pump running at 4.5 volts.
B1-S1 0- 70 ish,
B1-S2 0-0
with the pump cut out completely.
I think that the reading at all without the pump off is due to left over carbon or something still in the intake or oil blow-by. Not sure but the volt meter said 0 volts at the pump and obviously the readings can't lie that there wasn't a presence of fuel.
With the fuel pump running at 12 volts, the readings were as normal;
B1-S1 350 ish to 980 ish,
B1-S2 150 ish to 700 ish,
They drop some with HHO turned on but nothing like when you drop fuel pressure.
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."
ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .
Thanks for the mention Greg! And thanks for acknowledging the others on this forum. The amount of free information that is given so unselfishly by the "heavy hitters" here is a wonderful thing. I don't think many people realize the amount of time it takes to answer all of these very complex questions. I try to answer as many basic questions as I can in the many many emails that I get. But when it comes to installation questions, as you found out, I always refer them here and the forum down under. The more people like yourself that join in the mix, the sooner this will become mainstream.
WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF HHO, ENJOY THE RIDE!