Heavy HHO hitters

[Sodbuster]

Key on engine of: TPS ... 0.55 or 0%

Mash the foot feed... 0.55 to 4.49 or 0 to 100%

[Sodbuster]

update: " Fuel pump pressure regulated via a PWM".

"No voltage regulated" 13.8 volts at 57psi than increase throttle jumps to 60psi

"Regulated voltage" lower voltage to 7.5/8.0 volts pressure drops to 50 psi you can continue to lower voltage to 6.5 but the motor wants to stumble, and anything lower than 6.5 volts the truck needs to be moving under a light throttle.

Also I doubled the dry cells = 2x 38 plate cells at 4 LPM at 25 amps per cell.

Not sure whats up with the TPS values are good so maybe it glitched probably just replace it with a new one.

Also running dual battery's, 140 AMP ALT, dual PWM`s, and dual Bubbler's.

[TwinTurbo]

Key on engine of: TPS ... 0.55 or 0%

Mash the foot feed... 0.55 to 4.49 or 0 to 100%

It is common for a potentiometer to read properly at ends of the travel, you need to watch what the numbers do the whole way thru the cycle, slowly depress and release the foot feed while watching and make sure the numbers smoothly increase or decrease. Any hang up or erratic reading would indicate a problem.

[Madsceintist]

Key on engine of: TPS ... 0.55 or 0%

Mash the foot feed... 0.55 to 4.49 or 0 to 100%

Sod;
Yes watch for a steady and gradual movement of your TPS, it should read steady during the first 1/4 which is where they usually wear out. Its likely to jump from .58 to somewhere around .67, if you at any point cant get it to a number you want then change it. When you test it go very slow up then back down. Like I said however, I had some test fine and not be good!! But you said you had trans issues or what seemed like, Yes ? Change it ...

[Sodbuster]

Thanks guys !

Changed out the TPS .... problem solved

OK guys so far so good, I have added a second 38 plate cell and doubled my output to 4LPM I cant get over how well this engine is running, however if I lower the fuel pump voltage say to 8 volts and stand at Idle for any length of time I start throwing codes Po171,PO174,PO122,P1122 = looks to be all 02 codes. But running down the road both HWY and around town no codes just at Idle for any length of time. So I am thinking seriously of sending out the ECM to have the 02 sensor circuit widen to keep this from happening.

After I added the second cell I noticed a few things.
Engine temps are crazy low 160-165
Performance truck has 250,000 miles on it and it runs like it has a new motor.
The more HHO added the better it gets>>> but the more problems to solve as far as shutting fuel delivery down and check engine light/open loop.
So far the DEFIE is working the way it is supposed to "but" only running down the road, at standing Idle for any length of time = check engine light ON= open loop.
These rectangular tanks are great on the bench but road conditions not so great. I cant run any thing more than a gallon in each tank, the sloshing back and fourth is a huge problem, I think Round PVC is the way to go. Also the line connections do to vibration at the tank are a problem, thread thickness to threaded connection is not enough. The round PVC bubbler's work perfect with the PVC end caps and there is no sloshing with bobbers in the bubbler's.
I am going to design my own PVC supply tanks and incorporate clear PVC at full water levels for monitoring. Also I want to see at least three gallons of water instead of two.

What are your thoughts on this convertion going from the OEM Central Sequential Fuel injection to this ==)===> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-FJ105...sories&vxp=mtr or A/C Delco ==)===> http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-0-5-7-GM-S...ies&vxp=mtrand here is the explanation on how it works..... http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/A...injection.aspx

[Madsceintist]

Thanks guys !

Changed out the TPS .... problem solved

OK guys so far so good, I have added a second 38 plate cell and doubled my output to 4LPM I cant get over how well this engine is running, however if I lower the fuel pump voltage say to 8 volts and stand at Idle for any length of time I start throwing codes Po171,PO174,PO122,P1122 = looks to be all 02 codes. But running down the road both HWY and around town no codes just at Idle for any length of time. So I am thinking seriously of sending out the ECM to have the 02 sensor circuit widen to keep this from happening.

After I added the second cell I noticed a few things.
Engine temps are crazy low 160-165
Performance truck has 250,000 miles on it and it runs like it has a new motor.
The more HHO added the better it gets>>> but the more problems to solve as far as shutting fuel delivery down and check engine light/open loop.
So far the DEFIE is working the way it is supposed to "but" only running down the road, at standing Idle for any length of time = check engine light ON= open loop.
These rectangular tanks are great on the bench but road conditions not so great. I cant run any thing more than a gallon in each tank, the sloshing back and fourth is a huge problem, I think Round PVC is the way to go. Also the line connections do to vibration at the tank are a problem, thread thickness to threaded connection is not enough. The round PVC bubbler's work perfect with the PVC end caps and there is no sloshing with bobbers in the bubbler's.
I am going to design my own PVC supply tanks and incorporate clear PVC at full water levels for monitoring. Also I want to see at least three gallons of water instead of two.

What are your thoughts on this convertion going from the OEM Central Sequential Fuel injection to this ==)===> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-FJ105...sories&vxp=mtr or A/C Delco ==)===> http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-0-5-7-GM-S...ies&vxp=mtrand here is the explanation on how it works..... http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/A...injection.aspx

Just got back from Long Island trip, way behind on reading!
A few things there Sod;
Congratulations...... Also the second injector is the GM upgrade for the injection, works amazing but stupid high price. I use the same upgrade from Advance.
The bobblers are good I suppose, but i like the foam packaging eggs with stainless mesh to hold it down. Zero splashing !
The idling codes are because you cut back so much fuel and your putting in the same amount of HHO as if your driving. You could do what your thinking of with the widening of the range. I'm telling you and I've said it before, forget the codes the O2 sensors and messing with the computer. Unplug the O2's, let the computer run in limp mode and run it on the basic programming that runs the truck. You get a basic fuel setting that the computer wont mess with related to the O2 sensors, yes it still uses the MAP and TPS ! You go from there and cut back fuel, add HHO, adjust timing and restrict a little air in(pvc). I have a piece of pvc adapted down to 2 inches from 3 inches, it seems to change the MAP readings and helps a lot.

One more thing you might be interested in Sod;
Take the intake air temp sensor out of the duct and leave it out side of the path of intake air. Plug the hole with something that wont get sucked in. The hotter air around the engine will show the computer you have a hotter ambient intake temp and will help cut back more fuel through the computer.
Also the more HHO you run the cooler the engine will run, on the Toyota, I've had to take out the thermostat and drill a hole(1/8) in it to help pass some coolant as it wasn't opening at all.

Look forward to hearing from you as to the progress. Later...........

[myoldyourgold]

I have just a few thoughts on this. Nothing I haven't said before though. Sod you are doing everything right but IMHOP the long way around. One controller will do everything you are doing and only takes a few minutes to tune once installed, and all your problems are solved. You do not need HHO at Idle. That is where the biggest imbalance is so turn it off. You also might not need both reactors running all the time if sized right, which the controller can handle. Shutting down at idle or one of the reactors when not needed, saves a little fuel because the alternator is not having to put out so much and keeps the computer happy at the same time at idle. I run two reactors one puts out more than the other and turn them on and off based on the demand of the engine and trigger points are tunable. The cranking down of the fuel pump seams to be working in your vehicle but will not in some unless you interrupt the signal and change it that is being sent to the computer from the pump. I have been through this so many times I can not count. As soon as the controller is ready I will let you know. The final testing is being done hopefully today but I have said that more than once already actually thought I would be done yesterday. LOL Great job! It is good to hear from someone who confirms what you know to be right. There are a few additions that you will need to do if you shut down at idle and you can PM me if you want the details.

[Weapon_R]

Just got back from Long Island trip, way behind on reading!
A few things there Sod;
Congratulations...... Also the second injector is the GM upgrade for the injection, works amazing but stupid high price. I use the same upgrade from Advance.
The bobblers are good I suppose, but i like the foam packaging eggs with stainless mesh to hold it down. Zero splashing !
The idling codes are because you cut back so much fuel and your putting in the same amount of HHO as if your driving. You could do what your thinking of with the widening of the range. I'm telling you and I've said it before, forget the codes the O2 sensors and messing with the computer. Unplug the O2's, let the computer run in limp mode and run it on the basic programming that runs the truck. You get a basic fuel setting that the computer wont mess with related to the O2 sensors, yes it still uses the MAP and TPS ! You go from there and cut back fuel, add HHO, adjust timing and restrict a little air in(pvc). I have a piece of pvc adapted down to 2 inches from 3 inches, it seems to change the MAP readings and helps a lot.

One more thing you might be interested in Sod;
Take the intake air temp sensor out of the duct and leave it out side of the path of intake air. Plug the hole with something that wont get sucked in. The hotter air around the engine will show the computer you have a hotter ambient intake temp and will help cut back more fuel through the computer.
Also the more HHO you run the cooler the engine will run, on the Toyota, I've had to take out the thermostat and drill a hole(1/8) in it to help pass some coolant as it wasn't opening at all.

Look forward to hearing from you as to the progress. Later...........

Mad great post. Finally some who knows what he is talking about. I dont understand why everyone fears the engine check light. Lol

MyGold what will be the price of that controller and how many input outputs does it have?
Is it programmable and if so via what method???

[myoldyourgold]

MyGold what will be the price of that controller and how many input outputs does it have?
Is it programmable and if so via what method???

The final configuration has not been decided on yet so inputs and outputs are not fixed and price has not been set. There is basically an unlimited amount of things it can control with some limitations on when items are on or off but not the number of items that require the same on and off. This is not trying to directly compete with AEM or Apexi or other piggy back tuners so is not programmable but tunable mechanically similar to an EFIE. It does many things that the AEM & Apexi are capable of doing but are related to HHO which has limitations. It could be used to increase HP with no regard to conserving fuel using HHO. To do that more effectively it might require a small add-on though. That will be investigated down the road. The product is still a ways off from actual production though, but the initial testing should be finished very soon and then I should be able to give you more details. Lots to finalize yet.

Running in limp mode is only an option for experimentation and yes a solution for many things. It is in no way something you could promote to the general public though. Even electronic controllers have a very difficult road to get any kind of official approval but theoretically could be possible where limp mode would never have a chance.

[Madsceintist]

Mad great post. Finally some who knows what he is talking about. I dont understand why everyone fears the engine check light. Lol

MyGold what will be the price of that controller and how many input outputs does it have?
Is it programmable and if so via what method???

Weapon R;
In most states, big cities have emission testing so the check engine light can't be on or have any codes related to emissions, otherwise you will not pass. Several states have a visual check and pass as well. I live in a county that doesn't have emission testing but the adjacent 2 counties around me do! I'm less than a mile from one.

Here's something that a lot of people don't know..........

The Toyota is going to be inspected by the state(same place where they inspect salvage vehicles), so that it can be classified as an alternative fuel vehicle to omit the emission inspections. I already have the forms but the windshield is cracked badly and has to to be changed, and I just hadn't worried with it. This way it can be registered anywhere in the state no inspection. Just because it is getting this doesn't mean anyone can pass this, the car can run and be driven on no gas which gives it the ability to pass. The suburb can't do this as it runs on gas all the time, even if it gets twice the mileage it should.


By the way, the engine light is very useful in the fact that it can tell you if something else is a problem, i,e; trans codes other engine problems, some body codes, so on. Unfortunately I see some costumers that will drive for years with it on and not know why! If it is on check it ! Fix the problem not related to HHO, and go ...........