Heavy HHO hitters

[abssystems]

being no expert on what you have or HHO in general
a few things you may want to consider before going all that way to hook up a pwm to your pump
one that fuel pump most likely doesn't draw that much in amps
alot pumps draw off a 15 to 20 amp circut
as a simple test to your theary
why can't you simple hook a "POT" into line on your fuel pump circut at the pump side of the fuse or relay and monitor it with a DVOM thus turn the power/voltage down while watching the pressure?
thus "IMHO" i would suspect it will still give you 60 psi at say 5 amps /13.4 volts as it would at 10 amps 13.4volts
i have never tested a wave pattern on a fuel pump so i'm not sure on this but it would seem likely to me.
however reducing the volatge to that pump via wattage control should slow the pump down for a test to see if it will do what you want
trying the simple "pot" idea above should prove out that ?

another thing to consider and the biggy in my mind is this
your injectors need x pressure to atomize the fuel correctly thus if you reduce the fuel pressure to much your going to get dripps of fuel off the injector and thats not going to be productive to your goal is it?
thus you may not be able to cut the pressure far enought down without puddling to get where it make enough differance to your goal.

so yes i think you can limit some fuel via the way your thinking and make it adjustable from inside the cab but i would use caution on how much before you start bad side affects like premature pump failure and lack of fuel atomization

just my two cents
be curious how you make out
by the way I'm testing a 31 plate cell in a 2.3 liter LOL

[Sodbuster]

MY Old= Shortening the nozzle would be helpful and would not be to much work. Just make sure none of the metal parts are grounded. I am assuming that is plastic the nozzle is screwed into.

Good point and thanks for the tip: Yes the nozzle is " a pressure fit" into the top of the throttle body witch is plastic, however the bracket that holds the nozzle in place is bolted to the top of the throttle body that is metal. So the nozzle is grounded so i need to ditch this bracket and come up with another plan to hold the nozzle in place..... Thanks.... also I'm going to ditch all the brass connections and take your advise and go plastic all the way from start to finish.

abssystems: I'm not following you as far as this devise (pot) I get what you are saying but the abbreviation has thrown my mind into open loop
I have done several searches on pot but I keep coming up with a green leafy plant when smoked or ingested causes hallucinations, and I get enough that just trying to figure this out I'm just kidding man, and I understand what your trying to tell me just not up on abbreviations.

[Sodbuster]

abssystems,

Is this what you are talking about.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cosmos-Poten...item53eb6f35b6

[abssystems]

@ sodbuster

"pot " is basically a rheostat potentiometer differant types will acomplish differant results
i would think if you have tried ones and they " burnt up" your using under rated ones
many of the ones you see are only rated for 2 - 6 amps and i suspect your fuel pump to be drawing 15 to 20 amps max?
what is the fuse that protects it rated for?
that will give you a clue how heavy amp load it will draw so you can use a rheostat type that will handle the load
Mind you using a rheostat temp wired into that circut is going to cut voltage/wattage not amp draw
so I wouldn't leave it on for any longer than to test fuel pressure results
as reducing the voltage to your pump may make it run hotter and increase the draw
install a fuse rated just below your fuel pump rated fuse between the pump and the testing rheostat to protect the pump while testing this out


i would suggest looking at ones that work for music amps/ guitars?
or even maybe 115 volt 20 amp for testing your theory

[Sodbuster]

Abssystems, Would a 115 volt AC dimmer switch work as a Rheostat potentiometer say for home use? I gave that try and for some crazy reason it would not flow any DC current, could not get it to work at all. So I came to a conclusion that a AC Rheostat will not work on DC current... Don`t no .... Anyways yea I understand were your coming from, the pump is on a 20 amp fuse and a relay. Going to put a AMP meter across the + wire while the truck is running and see what kinda amps it pulls.

Hey on your 31 plate Cell... Abssystems, who manufactures it or did you build it yourself ?

[Madsceintist]

Abssystems, Would a 115 volt AC dimmer switch work as a Rheostat potentiometer say for home use? I gave that try and for some crazy reason it would not flow any DC current, could not get it to work at all. So I came to a conclusion that a AC Rheostat will not work on DC current... Don`t no .... Anyways yea I understand were your coming from, the pump is on a 20 amp fuse and a relay. Going to put a AMP meter across the + wire while the truck is running and see what kinda amps it pulls.

Hey on your 31 plate Cell... Abssystems, who manufactures it or did you build it yourself ?

Been there done that. Too high of an amperage pull, it shorts them out in a second.


You'd be better off with a 30 amp fuse and a 30 amp circuit breaker. Also, without an amp meter I was producing less then with .?! so you would and do need an amp meter.

If you use a relay use one that's rated for continuous duty such as for a fuel pump or fan. It will stay cooler and not burn up.

[delvis11]

I've never tried putting a pot on the fuel pump system but what about using a motor speed controller. It's made for heavy loads and has a adjustable duty cycle. It may do the job, Again I have never tried this.

[Sodbuster]

Sup Guys,

OK what I tried was using my PWM to control the fuel pump and it worked, wires stayed cool and I was able to very the amps to the pump and in turn lower pump pressure. However I could only go down to 10 amp`s or so and I needed to go even further.... motor started to run a tad bit ruff so I no I was getting close to were I wanted to be. So I think what i need is another PWM, one that will get down around 5 amp`s to were it will kill the motor than I can go up from there by balancing fuel and HHO = think were on to something

My Old: I ditched the pex delivery line and the copper nozzle and went all plastic with a nylon nozzle, turned out perfect.... so I took your advise

Take a look: first pic is the nozzle


Next pic is the nozel instaled inside of throttle body cover.

[abssystems]

@ Sodbuster
as already stated a light dimmer will not work as they work a bit differant
and most are only rated for MAX peek load of 15 amp and the constant load is much lower
of course they do make heavier duty
but you have already done your test to find out you can control and get lower pump pressure
but as I suspected it didn't do much at 10 amps

seeing you already tried your PWM and it showed the test that you can turn down your pump to at least 10 amps and get some sort of desired result

my suggestion follows along with the other posters idea of a DC motor speed controler being able to help you out

the first thing that comes to mind would be a " tread mill motor speed control" they are pretty easy to aquire, low cost and will handle the amps you will need.
believe it or not most tread mill motors are actually DC
I wont bore you with why they use DC motors and convert AC from the wall to run them but they are usually DC becasue the basic is that DC motors produce more Tourque

look around on ebay or at your local thrift store like salvation army store and you may not only find the control but a neat drive motor

this type of drive motor are well known for home built wind power stations
i think that will get you on track to a DC control device that will back your fuel pump motor down to stand still if desired
affixing a good quality relay and fuse to load side will help you save your pump should your test go astray

[Sodbuster]

ABS,

Is this what you are talking about..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/MC-30-Used-T...item27c51c8f4e

Let me ask you this, not that I am doubting you because I am taking your advise and if you say a treadmill speed motor controller will do the job than thats what we will try next but I need to ask a question here just future thinking.

On a Constant Current PWM would this not have more control from voltage run away and have more control from the pump trying to pull to many amps ?