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Thread: using a inverter to power up a dry or wet cell any thoughts?

  1. #1
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    Question using a inverter to power up a dry or wet cell any thoughts?

    I have only to date built wet or bath type cells. I have the stuff now to build a dry cell but have been thinking about using a DC to AC inverter for my power. Has anyone tried this before? Please let me know and what the results were thanks.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by hhagen_1 View Post
    I have only to date built wet or bath type cells. I have the stuff now to build a dry cell but have been thinking about using a DC to AC inverter for my power. Has anyone tried this before? Please let me know and what the results were thanks.
    Why do you want to use AC? To power a DC power supply perhaps? So DC to AC to DC... That's a pretty lossy way to go about it. (No, I didn't mis-type 'lousy'). I mean that there are a lot of conversion losses involved in that little scenario.
    I may be wrong, but I think you might be able to use a DC to DC converter with a LOT more efficiency.. Like these folks sell.. http://zahninc.com/httpzahninc.compr...FQ1U7Aod-xQcYg
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  3. #3
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    Question Not what I was talking about

    What I was thinking about is using a DC to AC converter to power the generator with AC power. Less battery draw and lower amps needed unless it over produces witch might be the case. I'm not a electronics guru by any means but I think it may work better with less heat and draw. I saw one online that put out 5 liters a minute but it was a 57 plate dry cell witch is a bit much for 1.9L Saturn.
    I have built 2 wet cell now one worked well but not enough production. The second one was a 2 plate design with produced 1 liter but got really hot.
    What is the best number of plates to use on a dry cell and what gasket thickness should I use?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by hhagen_1 View Post
    What I was thinking about is using a DC to AC converter to power the generator with AC power. Less battery draw and lower amps needed unless it over produces witch might be the case. I'm not a electronics guru by any means but I think it may work better with less heat and draw. I saw one online that put out 5 liters a minute but it was a 57 plate dry cell witch is a bit much for 1.9L Saturn.
    I have built 2 wet cell now one worked well but not enough production. The second one was a 2 plate design with produced 1 liter but got really hot.
    What is the best number of plates to use on a dry cell and what gasket thickness should I use?
    Oh, OK, I see what you were getting at. It's a no-go.. DC only for electrolysis, and the AC 57 plate unit you saw had diodes somewhere in it (its power supply) to convert the AC house current to DC for electrolysis. For Your 1.9L engine you can get by quite well with a 13 plate unit loafing along somewhere around 15-18 amps.
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  5. #5
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    thanks

    I thought that sounded a little off. I know 110 and water is a no no. I did build a 2 plate for my first try and it built a half liter but got hot as hell and cooked the one plate. Thank god the stainless was free lol. I have the stuff to make a 8 plate but not sure of what I should use for the mix. I have read so much on line about pot ash to draino and saw one guy using hydrogen peroxide with rubbing alcohol.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by hhagen_1 View Post
    I thought that sounded a little off. I know 110 and water is a no no. I did build a 2 plate for my first try and it built a half liter but got hot as hell and cooked the one plate. Thank god the stainless was free lol. I have the stuff to make a 8 plate but not sure of what I should use for the mix. I have read so much on line about pot ash to draino and saw one guy using hydrogen peroxide with rubbing alcohol.
    IF the plates are 316L stainless, and IF they are approx 50 sq.in. a piece, then you can make your gas volume with 8 plates [+nnnnnn-] at around 16-18 amps using NaOh (lye). Lye seems to be the new preferred choice of electrolyte these days- I'm stuck with 50 gallons of 45%KOH so you know what I'll be using Anyway, if you need patterns or cad/cam .dwg's or .dxf's just let me know the size pieces you have to work with and I'll hook you up.
    P.S.- Hydrogen peroxide is H2O2.. When split it makes equal amounts of H & O, talk about REALLY messing with O2 sensors! Alcohol? -only to lower the freezing point.
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  7. #7
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    plate size

    So if I made plates say 6X6 I would need 11 plates for a dry cell? I thought you wanted 1.7V per plate for best results. I watched a thing on you tube about plate spacing and number of plates I cant remember who did it now but he has a lot of videos that I have seen.
    How long have you been doing HHO?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hhagen_1 View Post
    So if I made plates say 6X6 I would need 11 plates for a dry cell? I thought you wanted 1.7V per plate for best results. I watched a thing on you tube about plate spacing and number of plates I cant remember who did it now but he has a lot of videos that I have seen.
    How long have you been doing HHO?
    I started studying the hardware and production methods in 1990, but didn't start building anything until 1998 and that was just proof of concept stuff & wind/solar hydrogen working models for demo's. I didn't start getting truly serious until 2006.
    Plate spacing, electrolyte strength and voltage all are "tune-able" variables and nothing is carved in stone. That being said, what seems to work pretty well is up to 1/2 amp per square inch per one power plate per stack. Between 1.9 and 2.1VpC (volts per cell) and anywhere from .04" to .125" between plates, depending on flow-ability and electrolyte strength
    For clarification:
    A "cell" is two plates and the electrolyte in between.
    A "stack" is a series of cells consisting of a positive plate, a negative plate, and the bipolar or "neutral" plates in between. A stack, or multiple stacks are made from a series of cells and is called a reactor, or an electrolyser.
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