2012 Dodge 6.7 Diesel fun issues

[aceras624]

first adding extra nuetral plates is a good idea. Its just a more efficient way to produce HHO. Less heat mean less current wasted means less altenator usage means more MPG.

Second why dont you just put a relay in on a switched source. Ther are plenty of them and relays are super easy to work with!!!

Third the reason your PWM is staying on is either because its limiter is set lower than 13.8 or because the battery is capable of holding that high enough voltage for about a min. New batteries are quite good and capable of good capacidence<---lets pretend thats a real word

so just install a relay already! truck turns on, so does HHO, truck turns off, so does HHO. problem solved

[BioFarmer93]

first adding extra nuetral plates is a good idea. Its just a more efficient way to produce HHO. Less heat mean less current wasted means less altenator usage means more MPG.

Second why dont you just put a relay in on a switched source. Ther are plenty of them and relays are super easy to work with!!!

Third the reason your PWM is staying on is either because its limiter is set lower than 13.8 or because the battery is capable of holding that high enough voltage for about a min. New batteries are quite good and capable of good capacidence<---lets pretend thats a real word

so just install a relay already! truck turns on, so does HHO, truck turns off, so does HHO. problem solved

Tim,
I've got to go with Ace on the relay, Myold on the warranty and Koya about the properly built reactor. You're getting good advice here brother, and you need to heed. A PWM is an unnecessary expense looking for a home, send it back for a refund and use the cash to buy the rest of the plates to complete the reactor and there will be no need for a PWM.
I'm lucky, I have a 1989 7.3 idi and don't have to deal with electrickery, but a 2012 Cummins is already behind the electronics 8-ball, and having to deal with-

"Chrysler is having repair problems with its 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012 Dodge RAM trucks equipped with the 6.7 Liter Cummins turbo diesel engine. Typically, the check engine light comes on causing the owner to take it in to their dealer for warranty repairs. The dealers often find problems with the engine computer controls, the emissions system, the turbo, and the transmissions.
Dodge has issued technical service bulletins on these models dealing with engine control software issues and excessive turbocharger soot accumulation resulting in emissions problems."

So since she's going to be a warranty queen anyway, might as well go ahead and get a programmable controller and take charge of the situation from the get-go and just skip the dealer BS. I realize my approach sounds pretty scary and radical to some, but once the engine management system is under owner control, and someone realizes that their reactor is yet unfinished and needs to BE finished, emissions and mileage won't be problems. If you decide to continue running the inefficient poor performing steam machine, please let me know and I'll give you a BOOB (Brotherhood Of Oil Burners) price on a two stage rechargeable moisture eliminator to ease worries about caustics in the intake system. Don't get mad- get busy reading, because based on a couple of your responses you haven't finished your homework yet..

[iger13]

DO NOT INDUCE the hho at the turbo end. Induce it at the intak end after the cooler right at the bend of the intake elbow. I know this because of 10K miles on mine of testing.

Can you give a bit more explanation?

[myoldyourgold]

Ben what is your turbo pressure? What ever it is your HHO has to be something more to inject after the turbo. There is no question this works with parahydrogen but will be very dangerous or impossible with ortho rich hydrogen. There are a number of people/companies that are doing this but I have not seen one of them that is getting more than 2 to 4 miles increase if you can even believe them. I have seen much more than that in my Mercedes and all pre turbo injected.

[myoldyourgold]

Thank you Sir, I will be very interested in your finding. The stock boost pressure is around 26 to 28 psi in the commins. Tuners usually turn it up to as high as 35 psi some times higher. I am not sure what your engine has.

[myoldyourgold]

I switched the induction location several inches in front of the turbo. I did not like the way the truck performed. The initial sign of accel and behavior not to mention the mpg drop I was not happy with. hence it is being induced at the post turbo intake elbow.
The after market intake from AFE came with holes already to accommodate installation of water injection and HHO, so I elected to use them. That seems to yield better performance and mpg gain in my case.

Can you give us details of your system? I would like to know how you prevent the 20-30 pounds of pressure from going back into your HHO system. How long does it take for your system to build that much pressure? Have you ever put a pressure gauge on your reservoir? Maybe I am missing something here. But I am glad it is working as good as it is. At 3 LPM it will take quite a while to build 30 lbs. If I remember you use tie straps to hold your HHO lines on and they are able to keep things from leaking at that pressure is really good. I am still a little lost.

[Weapon_R]

I was wondering how long someone will ask that question. My "waterless" bubbler does build pressure to overcome the boost pressure. At first when I did not have the check valve anytime I get on the throttle the end cap for the bubble is pushed out. Now that the bubbler is a sealed unit and don't really get on throttle much the pressure from the bubbler is greater enough to overcome the boost press. I think I ran into something I can't explain, the bubbler is multiple chamber design. I've stopped the patent pending on it so I can share the design, but I am hesitant because it is that functional. i have 10k on my 2012 and still not seen any sign of moisture coming from the bubbler to the intake or the tube leading to it.
I thought of putting a gauge but I have so much on my plate that doing the research will be time consuming.

Yes, with thermol mulnipulation and spot ties the tubing does stay on the fittings 9around 50+ psi (tested it), to removed the tubing for maintenance I have to use a heat gun to soften the tube so I can remove them.

Impressive! Koya are you using a flashback arrestor?

[myoldyourgold]

Koya, what type of check valve are you using that prevents the pressure from the turbo going into your waterless bubbler? When you turn off the engine what is preventing the HHO form bleeding down/emptying the no water bubbler and filling the intake? In my system I run a pressure system but under 10 LBS because I turn off at idle and do not want to have any lag at start up so the system stays charged the whole time even when turned off. I know how I do it but was interested how you do it or do you just let it go into the intake and not worry about it. It might not make any difference in your case with such a little HHO but the volume of the bubbler will at least empty down to atmosphere pressure. In mine I inject a lot more HHO and that amount in the intake might cause a problem at start up. If I pressurize mine that much it most likely will explode.

[dixiepc]

Alright Ben, since you are ready to share your bubbler design with us, we are ready for you to share your bubbler design with us.

Shoot!