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Thread: Painless experiment in HHO

  1. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by Painless View Post
    It's connected on the drivers side exhaust manifold, just before where it links to the main exhaust, just before the CAT.
    I do not think you are going to lose much of your MMW gains by re-opening your bottom holes. The PWM does make gains over straight DC. I have tested it over and over. You will get more effecient as you raise electrolite levels and lower duty cycle. Every time your PWM turns off power there is a revirse electrical spike. Your cell will continue to make HHO during this process. Your best effeciency will come at lower duty cycles.

  2. #612
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    Ever feel like you work your ****'s off for nothing?

    Got up early this morning and went outside to re-install my cell, which I worked on late last night to remove the bottom hole block. Got it all plugged, bolted and plumbed, turned the PWM down to the lowest setting and fired her up with the engine running. Turned the PWM all the way up to 100% duty cycle........ 15 amps.

    I have to say that this is starting to get old, is it the NaOH? ...is the different catalyst really that bad at conducting? Is it my twin PVC shower pan liner gaskets? Is the slightly bigger gap making *THAT* much of a difference? I must have a pound (at least) of that 100% NaOH Roebic drain cleaner in my gallon of distilled water now.

    Russ.
    2006 Dodge Ram 4.7L - 16.5 mpg stock
    My thread Painless Experiment in HHO

  3. #613
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    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by Painless View Post
    That's good to know, Russ. How much offset voltage are you using? My bias adjustment system is wired to all four O2's, so hopefully I will see good results too when I come to use it. Do you have any MPG figures yet? How did you calc them?

    I rebuilt my cell again tonight and removed the bottom hole blockage, I'm interested to see how much my MMW will go down and if I can actually pull amperage now. I know that I did double my plate gap (two layers of 0.040" PVC) but I can't believe that would make that much of a difference. Tomorrow morning will tell.

    Russ.
    I have found that 0.040 is better han 0.080.

    I once used 0.025 and it was much better.

    The 0.025 was a hard to do cusom seal that lasted just long enough to prove its worth.

    I am looking for 0.025 gasket material.

    Inner tubes are approximately 0.050 thick and their rubber 'give' makes for great seals.


    BoyntonStu

  4. #614
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    Shorts

    I also have the wall plates from lowes which I use for test purposes on the workbench at the moment. I found that if you have a short the cell will not draw amps (in my case was stuck at 12 amps) I fiddled around with connections and all of a sudden it jumped from 12 to 18 with .5lpm to 1.78lpm. I would check for shorts or if not then your spacing is just too wide.
    Hope this helps.
    99 Ford F250 5.4 Triton
    21 plate drycell, digital efie, breaking in unit, no mpg yet

  5. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoyntonStu View Post
    I have found that 0.040 is better han 0.080.

    I once used 0.025 and it was much better.

    The 0.025 was a hard to do cusom seal that lasted just long enough to prove its worth.

    I am looking for 0.025 gasket material.

    Inner tubes are approximately 0.050 thick and their rubber 'give' makes for great seals.


    BoyntonStu
    I really don't think it's the NaOH as I know I've seen others pulling over 50 amps with it at 0.040" gap.

    This presents a dilemma, going back to a smaller gap means going back to shorts as the angled plate edges will start to touch again. The other answer would be to cut the angled edges off of all 26 plates, but I just don't have the equipment for that.

    A side warning for everyone here using KOH or NaOH or other caustic substances:

    If you have plastic gloves, WEAR THEM, if you don't have plastic gloves GO OUT AND BUY SOME! I didn't put mine on yesterday to drain my reservoir and slipped and spilt electrolyte all over the backs of both of my hands, they already had cuts and grazes on them from working with this project so I don't need to tell you how much that hurt. The backs of my hands this morning look like I've gone 20 rounds with Mike Tyson without boxing gloves and got in my fair share of punches.

    We really can't afford to be carefree with these electrolytes, my wife made me promise to wear my plastic gloves 100% from now on and I had no problems agreeing. Everyone, please be extra safe.

    Russ.
    2006 Dodge Ram 4.7L - 16.5 mpg stock
    My thread Painless Experiment in HHO

  6. #616
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    On your wall plates, could you possibly cut in at the corners at an angle about a 1/4" then put them in a vise and flatten them out?

  7. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carolinablue View Post
    On your wall plates, could you possibly cut in at the corners at an angle about a 1/4" then put them in a vise and flatten them out?
    Unfortunately, I don't even have a vise.

    I've tried flattening a wall plate before, couldn't get it perfectly flat.
    2006 Dodge Ram 4.7L - 16.5 mpg stock
    My thread Painless Experiment in HHO

  8. #618
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    Muskegon MI
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    Wall Plates 304 vs 316L Price

    Painless I have followed you since the beginning of your trek to bring HHO benefits at the least cost. I think its time you invested in NICE FLAT PLATES! SCM has a price list available which you would be pleasently surprised at how reasonable a 316L 3x4 ($1.50) or 3x5 ($1.80) is. I know at my lowes the switch plate ran $1.63 each so for peace of mind (your sanity!) it may be time to make your life a little easier on your HHO journey. One last thing read my post above as I did have the same thing happen to me with amp draw.
    99 Ford F250 5.4 Triton
    21 plate drycell, digital efie, breaking in unit, no mpg yet

  9. #619
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowriderjj View Post
    I also have the wall plates from lowes which I use for test purposes on the workbench at the moment. I found that if you have a short the cell will not draw amps (in my case was stuck at 12 amps) I fiddled around with connections and all of a sudden it jumped from 12 to 18 with .5lpm to 1.78lpm. I would check for shorts or if not then your spacing is just too wide.
    Hope this helps.
    This was always the problem with the 0.040" gap and why I went to the double gaskets. I've checked my cell over and over for shorts and not found any. I really think now that the gap is the issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by lowriderjj View Post
    Painless I have followed you since the beginning of your trek to bring HHO benefits at the least cost. I think its time you invested in NICE FLAT PLATES! SCM has a price list available which you would be pleasently surprised at how reasonable a 316L 3x4 ($1.50) or 3x5 ($1.80) is. I know at my lowes the switch plate ran $1.63 each so for peace of mind (your sanity!) it may be time to make your life a little easier on your HHO journey. One last thing read my post above as I did have the same thing happen to me with amp draw.
    I've been thinking the same, I PM'd scm for a price list this morning. Hopefully, it won't break the bank.

    Russ.
    2006 Dodge Ram 4.7L - 16.5 mpg stock
    My thread Painless Experiment in HHO

  10. #620
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    I've been thinking that this might be a good time to try and old theory of mine with these plate gaps, I'm thinking about finding a way to step up the voltage, say from 14 to 20 volts, and see what kind of performance and efficiency we get. The bigger gaps are definitely all about resistance, therefore, a larger voltage potential should get production up and more watts flowing. The point of interest will be how the cell then fares in terms of heat and MMW.

    I'm guessing I'll need a transformer with a 2 to 3 winding ratio, or is there an easier way?
    2006 Dodge Ram 4.7L - 16.5 mpg stock
    My thread Painless Experiment in HHO

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