Painless experiment in HHO

[Painless]

In case anyone looks and wonders, I've taken down the hhoknowhow wiki site. It was getting almost zero traffic and contribution was non-existant. I've saved some of the information to be used on it's replacement.

In it's place, I've started putting together an HHO knowledge website called http://www.hhoknowhow.info/. It's based on Drupal, an open source CMS. I can write PHP etc, but just don't have the time.

This site will now be a collection point for all information pertaining to HHO that I come across and want to share, if anyone is interested in writing any articles, either on a one-off or regular basis, please PM me.

Russ.

[Painless]

I've just come in from outside and have removed the O2 sensor extenders, warm air intake / restriction, my cell and the electronic wiring for it. In effect, my vehicle is now very much stock again. I'm going to reset the computer and use this time to generate a new baseline, purely from gallons pumped divided by miles.

Meanwhile, I'm working on building my new cell design with the plates that Dane was kind enough to send me. Power source is going to be a problem, although I do have a computer ATX PSU which I've just modified as a lab supply. 15.3v is the closest I'm going to get to automobile voltage though.

If anyone has a re-wired microwave oven transformer they can donate, I wouldn't say no!

Russ.

[Painless]

So far so good with my truck, she is running a lot smoother since my work on Monday. The lumpy idle also appears to have gone.

I'm considering eliminating the relay from my next install. My thought process (and please speak up if you have an opinion!) is that, with the 50 amp PWM, I can run the PWM circuits power (for the PWM, not the power that it controls to the cell) from my add-a-line in the fuse box. This will ensure that the PWM only runs when the engine is on. Relays, even high amp rated ones, just seem to be causing too many issues.

I am going to need to find a good source for a resettable 50 amp protection. Inline fuses are OK, but a pain in the arse when you accidentally blow one and have to get another. So far, the only resettable breakers I've found are the ones that I had previously which didn't blow even though I was over current by 30% plus.

I'm still working on my low current leakage cell design, I've had to abandon one method due to my inability to work well with plastics (lack of tools) and go another route which I had in mind earlier. This is going to be called 'The Canoe Cell', the name will become clear when you see my pictures

[coffeeachiever]

I posted a link in your other thread that gives tips on working with plastics(acrylic, which is what you said). I don't know if it has anything you don't already know, but it seems to be what you asked for.
Hope it helps.
I'm still thinking about the gasses separating with the magnets and what Stephane said about defeating his O2 sensor without an EFIE by separating the gasses.
You said before that you had some more experiments in mind to do with the magnets. Have you explored that yet?

[Painless]

Coffee,

I did see your link, it gave me some ideas. Thank you!

As for the magnets, I'm thinking of trying to apply them to my dry cell when it's complete and see if it helps with getting the bubbles off of the plates. In reality, for a decent sized cell, the magnets I have (from an old hard drive) aren't really going to cut it, I think. However, if they make any difference with the small cell then I shall consider investing in some large ones.

Russ.

[Painless]

It's been fairly quiet since I got to work, so I've been doing some googling to find any existing information out there reference the effects of magnetism on electrolysis.

This guys page is worth a read:

http://www.geocities.com/mj_17870/myideas.html

His paper, 'The influence of permanent magnets on electrolysis cells' is a definite must read. Larry, you definitely need to read this before trying your magnetic coils.

I also found this interesting, although it is obviously questionable:

http://www.zpenergy.com/modules.php?...rticle&sid=470

Bit of bedtime reading for everyone, there will be a test later!

Russ.

[Carolinablue]

Wonder how it do to make the gasket from that rubber magnet material like fridge magnet are made from. Seems like I've seen this in craft stores.

[H2OPWR]

Wonder how it do to make the gasket from that rubber magnet material like fridge magnet are made from. Seems like I've seen this in craft stores.

Good Idea but I think that anything that is magnetic will conduct electricity and would short out the cell.

[daddymikey1975]

So far so good with my truck, she is running a lot smoother since my work on Monday. The lumpy idle also appears to have gone.

I'm considering eliminating the relay from my next install. My thought process (and please speak up if you have an opinion!) is that, with the 50 amp PWM, I can run the PWM circuits power (for the PWM, not the power that it controls to the cell) from my add-a-line in the fuse box. This will ensure that the PWM only runs when the engine is on. Relays, even high amp rated ones, just seem to be causing too many issues.

I am going to need to find a good source for a resettable 50 amp protection. Inline fuses are OK, but a pain in the arse when you accidentally blow one and have to get another. So far, the only resettable breakers I've found are the ones that I had previously which didn't blow even though I was over current by 30% plus.

I'm still working on my low current leakage cell design, I've had to abandon one method due to my inability to work well with plastics (lack of tools) and go another route which I had in mind earlier. This is going to be called 'The Canoe Cell', the name will become clear when you see my pictures

Russ, if you take your dash apart, at the ignition switch, there's a pink wire with a white stripe. This wire is the ignition wire in your truck. it turns on with the key, and turns off with the key. it's ONLY 2AMPS... use it to turn on a relay to power the PWM's supply circuit (not the Cell side). This will work for you without problems. I've installed aftermarket sunroofs in these trucks and used the same idea to power the sunroof. I ger my constant power for the relay's power from the electric brake controller wiring harness under the dash. It's a blue 4 pin plug, on the driver's side of the firewall (under dash) just 'above' the kick panel just to the right of the parking brake. it's at the top of that large harness/plug that's there... you'll see it. blue plug about 3 finger's width and as tall as your thumb is wide with the 4 pins facing the rear of the truck.

as for resettable current limiting, have you tried one of these?? http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d29.html

they can be found at your local audio install shop. NOT best buy or circuit city. must be a 'smaller' but high reputation shop. Also could find them at any place that installs power lifts for wheelchair access on vans, or places that install plows to the front of trucks.

if the 50A ones don't blow at 50A, get a smaller one... most circuit breakers are designed to allow a percentage of current in excess of it's rated protection, but i don't know for how long it'll allow this. it'll drop a spike up to it's design limit, but constant draw it'll allow.

I hope this helps.
mike

[Painless]

Russ, if you take your dash apart, at the ignition switch, there's a pink wire with a white stripe. This wire is the ignition wire in your truck. it turns on with the key, and turns off with the key. it's ONLY 2AMPS... use it to turn on a relay to power the PWM's supply circuit (not the Cell side). This will work for you without problems. I've installed aftermarket sunroofs in these trucks and used the same idea to power the sunroof. I ger my constant power for the relay's power from the electric brake controller wiring harness under the dash. It's a blue 4 pin plug, on the driver's side of the firewall (under dash) just 'above' the kick panel just to the right of the parking brake. it's at the top of that large harness/plug that's there... you'll see it. blue plug about 3 finger's width and as tall as your thumb is wide with the 4 pins facing the rear of the truck.

as for resettable current limiting, have you tried one of these?? http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d29.html

they can be found at your local audio install shop. NOT best buy or circuit city. must be a 'smaller' but high reputation shop. Also could find them at any place that installs power lifts for wheelchair access on vans, or places that install plows to the front of trucks.

if the 50A ones don't blow at 50A, get a smaller one... most circuit breakers are designed to allow a percentage of current in excess of it's rated protection, but i don't know for how long it'll allow this. it'll drop a spike up to it's design limit, but constant draw it'll allow.

I hope this helps.
mike

I think I've seen those kind of breakers in AutoZone, although I didn't use them in my earlier experiments as I was only looking to limit at about 20-30 amps. I'll check them out again, thanks for the reminder!

As for the ignition link, what I have already is an add-a-line/fuse connected to the auto shutdown relay circuit. This provides an ignition source that will be cut if the vehicle is in an accident. I would suspect that the wiring you mentioned may be as well, if it's ignition based. I also need to take my dash apart again to find a good source for linking into the dash illumination so I can see my amp meter in the dark

Russ.