Painless experiment in HHO

[Consaka]

Bryan,

Heat is controlled by design. Keep you gap voltage as close to 2v as you can, reduce current leakage and make sure all your electrical connections are good.

Russ.

Yes I know, but can you for the purpose of that test?

[Painless]

Yes I know, but can you for the purpose of that test?

I'm sorry, Bryan. I misunderstood the direction of your question.

I was thinking of doing the experiment backwards, starting at 50 amps then working backwards.

Russ.

[Painless]

On the subject of stopping ones reservoir from drinking from the bubbler on cooldown, the normally open solenoid isn't doing the trick. Its working correctly, but this morning my reservoir had still sucked up the water and alcohol from my first bubbler, ruining my last available batch of electrolyte. I order another 4lbs of KOH this morning, so I should be back in business when it gets here.

I went to Sears today and picked up a 19 piece tap and die set, then headed over to Lowes and bought a 3" brass nipple, a brass ball valve, two brass barbs and a packet of 0.35 MIG welder wire feeder tips. I also picked up some 0.25 tips too. I assembled all these together, as per d3adpools design and made a nice HHO torch. Can't test it until my KOH gets here though.

I also stopped off at Autozone and checked out quite a few different PCV check valves, unfortunately, none of them sealed completely when blown through the wrong way. Looks like the SS ball and spring types are the direction we need to look in, as long as the cracking pressure isn't too high.

Russ.

[H2OPWR]

On the subject of stopping ones reservoir from drinking from the bubbler on cooldown, the normally open solenoid isn't doing the trick. Its working correctly, but this morning my reservoir had still sucked up the water and alcohol from my first bubbler, ruining my last available batch of electrolyte. I order another 4lbs of KOH this morning, so I should be back in business when it gets here.

I went to Sears today and picked up a 19 piece tap and die set, then headed over to Lowes and bought a 3" brass nipple, a brass ball valve, two brass barbs and a packet of 0.35 MIG welder wire feeder tips. I also picked up some 0.25 tips too. I assembled all these together, as per d3adpools design and made a nice HHO torch. Can't test it until my KOH gets here though.

I also stopped off at Autozone and checked out quite a few different PCV check valves, unfortunately, none of them sealed completely when blown through the wrong way. Looks like the SS ball and spring types are the direction we need to look in, as long as the cracking pressure isn't too high.

Russ.

I ordered the check valves yesterday and received them today. Everyone wants to ship air to Alaska and charge a fortune!

The problem is that in my haste to order them I ordered 3/16 instead of 3/8. Now I have 10 3/16 check valves that I can not use. They seem to be much better than the normal reed kind that most are using. 1 psi cracking and absolutely no way to blow back the other direction. Now after looking again they do not make this particular check valve with 3/8" nipples. They stop at 1/4. I did find one that has 3/8 nipples and ordered 2 of them today. Mcmaster Carr seems to have the best selection I can find. Here is the link if anyone that uses 1/4" tubing wants to try one. They seem buch better to me.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6079t55

Larry

[Consaka]

On the subject of stopping ones reservoir from drinking from the bubbler on cooldown, the normally open solenoid isn't doing the trick. Its working correctly, but this morning my reservoir had still sucked up the water and alcohol from my first bubbler, ruining my last available batch of electrolyte. I order another 4lbs of KOH this morning, so I should be back in business when it gets here.

I went to Sears today and picked up a 19 piece tap and die set, then headed over to Lowes and bought a 3" brass nipple, a brass ball valve, two brass barbs and a packet of 0.35 MIG welder wire feeder tips. I also picked up some 0.25 tips too. I assembled all these together, as per d3adpools design and made a nice HHO torch. Can't test it until my KOH gets here though.

I also stopped off at Autozone and checked out quite a few different PCV check valves, unfortunately, none of them sealed completely when blown through the wrong way. Looks like the SS ball and spring types are the direction we need to look in, as long as the cracking pressure isn't too high.

Russ.

Do you have a link for that hho torch? Im having a hard time picturing it.. lol

[Bassman]

On the subject of stopping ones reservoir from drinking from the bubbler on cooldown, the normally open solenoid isn't doing the trick. Its working correctly, but this morning my reservoir had still sucked up the water and alcohol from my first bubbler, ruining my last available batch of electrolyte. I order another 4lbs of KOH this morning, so I should be back in business when it gets here.

If your check valve is spring loaded, could you also put one on your reservoir that would let it suck air if it pulled a vacuum? Then if one failed, maybe the other would work, providing that it sealed good enough that it didn't loose HHO.

[Painless]

If your check valve is spring loaded, could you also put one on your reservoir that would let it suck air if it pulled a vacuum? Then if one failed, maybe the other would work, providing that it sealed good enough that it didn't loose HHO.

That would do the job too.

[Painless]

Do you have a link for that hho torch? Im having a hard time picturing it.. lol

Here's a picture of my torch:



From left to right, it basically goes:

0.35" MIG tip, 1/4" barb, 3"x1/4" nipple, 1/4" ball valve, 1/4" barb

I had to cut a metric 6MMx1 thread inside the barb so that the MIG tip could be screwed into it. Also, the 3" nipple is stuffed solid with fine bronze wool as a flash arrestor. All threads are sealed with yellow thread sealant tape.

Next thing I want to do is find a suitable material to pad the nipple with, to keep the heat away from my fingers!

Russ.

[Painless]

I've been giving some serious thought today to high temperature electrolysis. We all know that we achieve separation of the H2 and O2 by supplying the required energy through electricity, however, it is also true that some of this energy may be supplied in a different form. Heat is a good example of this.

Water will split without electrolysis at 2500 degrees C which would be difficult to implement, however, why can't we design a new era of generator that utilises waste heat from the exhaust to contribute to the energy requirements of the water splitting process? This would reduce our electrical energy requirements.

The way I see it, a cell would need to be constructed that would withstand high degrees of heat, to the order of 1500 to 2000 F and that would withstand large changes in pressure due to expansion under changing heat inputs. Finding non-conductive materials that are happy under such an environment would be a challenge. I believe that 304SS and 316SS both can withstand up to about 1500 F?

So many of us are busy trying to increase our MMW's to save power, why not take that one step further by utilising already existent power that is just being blown out of our exhaust pipe?

Russ.

[Gary Diamond]

I've been giving some serious thought today to high temperature electrolysis. We all know that we achieve separation of the H2 and O2 by supplying the required energy through electricity, however, it is also true that some of this energy may be supplied in a different form. Heat is a good example of this.

Water will split without electrolysis at 2500 degrees C which would be difficult to implement, however, why can't we design a new era of generator that utilises waste heat from the exhaust to contribute to the energy requirements of the water splitting process? This would reduce our electrical energy requirements.

The way I see it, a cell would need to be constructed that would withstand high degrees of heat, to the order of 1500 to 2000 F and that would withstand large changes in pressure due to expansion under changing heat inputs. Finding non-conductive materials that are happy under such an environment would be a challenge. I believe that 304SS and 316SS both can withstand up to about 1500 F?

So many of us are busy trying to increase our MMW's to save power, why not take that one step further by utilising already existent power that is just being blown out of our exhaust pipe?

Russ.

Would not making steam be the biggest problem?