Painless experiment in HHO

[H2OPWR]

After doing a little more securing of my cell this morning, just to make sure my cell doesn't become road debris, I went for a 20 minute test drive:

The cell is definitely putting a good load on my alternator, cruising at 50mph after a good warm up the battery voltage was down to about 13.2 volts (normally she runs at 14.1+). I also noticed that I cannot run the heater fan at full speed with the cell on as this kills the volts to a point where the vehicle triggers the 'check gauges' light.

It's clear that if I want to run this sort of output as standard that I will need to invest in a better alternator. I'm going to run this setup for one tankful of gas and see if there are any noticeable changes. If so, I'll look into the alternator situation. If not, well, who knows.

Russ.

Be careful Russ, You do not want a dead battery or worse blown diodes in your alternator. Although I know where you are coming from. I too beleive we need this type of output to get the gains we seek.

Larry

[Painless]

Be careful Russ, You do not want a dead battery or worse blown diodes in your alternator. Although I know where you are coming from. I too beleive we need this type of output to get the gains we seek.

Larry

I understand your concerns, Larry. To be frank, I share them. I have a jump starter box I can carry with me, although that will be no help if I lose the alternator. I just don't know how else to prove this out without dishing out a ton of money on a heavy duty alternator.

Russ.

[H2OPWR]

I understand your concerns, Larry. To be frank, I share them. I have a jump starter box I can carry with me, although that will be no help if I lose the alternator. I just don't know how else to prove this out without dishing out a ton of money on a heavy duty alternator.

Russ.

Russ, I do strongly beleive as you do that most people simply are not feeding enough HHO into the engines to get max gains. This is going to continue to be a huge problem without some sort of a breakthrough in effeciency. Most vehicles simply do not have the electrical system capacity to provide the needed current to generate 4 to 5 LPM. Adding the needed high amp alternator can be between $300 and $1000.00 depending on the vehicle you have. Yours should be on the lower end of the scale because domestic trucks have the most availability of off the shelf high amp alternators available.

I still have reservations about the ability to acheive gains without electronic enhancements on the newer vehicles. The ECU's are just too smart.

Good luck I hope to see you acheive gains. You always seem willing to risk much to acheive your goals. You are a credit to the people that are trying to make a difference.

Larry

[livehho]

I have a prototype PWM built that increases the current flow to the genny proportionally to engine load, but it's still an untested prototype until I get the system up and running in my Jeep....I don't know what kind of results it will produce. It will probably have a delay time on throttle changes, but hopefully it won't be too severe.

The prototype is capable of driving the genny at up to 60 amps.

have you been able to test it?

[crewdog]

I looked to see what was offered for my truck as far as alternators go, it was as high as 200 amp. Which I think will drive my cell OK for the 45 to 50 amps that I'm shooting for, but I think down the road, I may want more amps so I may buy the 200 amp alternator just to cover what I may try. The stock alternator is a 130 amp and I can see it not keeping up at low RPMs with the head lights and heater on with the cell which is only pulling 40 amp's.

crewdog

[H2OPWR]

I looked to see what was offered for my truck as far as alternators go, it was as high as 200 amp. Which I think will drive my cell OK for the 45 to 50 amps that I'm shooting for, but I think down the road, I may want more amps so I may buy the 200 amp alternator just to cover what I may try. The stock alternator is a 130 amp and I can see it not keeping up at low RPMs with the head lights and heater on with the cell which is only pulling 40 amp's.

crewdog

I got a 265 amp alternator to replace my 130 amp stock alternator. The guys at Ohio Generator were great but quite spendy.

Larry

[Painless]

I've had an exciting evening, got into my truck to take the family out this evening, started her up and she was running REAL rough. The exhaust gas temp was 1000 F at *IDLE* and any attempt to throttle her caused her to stutter and usually stop running.

After looking at all sorts of sensor outputs, I noticed that the O2's were signalling mega rich and the MAP sensor was showing a permanent reading of 13.9 PSI. This would not change under any circumstances. I did manage to take a short test drive, the MAP reading was still stuck at 13.9 PSI though.

I examined the MAP sensor wiring, all looked OK and took a voltage reading from the signal wire, 4.5v constant. I finally took a pair of cutters and cut the MAP sensor signal wire, after this the engine ran fine albeit with a code and finally went into closed loop.

I took another test ride and she ran fine, although the cruise control was dead (I'm guessing this needs MAP) and the rev limiter was cutting in at 4,000 RPM.

Looks like I need to buy a new MAP sensor.

Russ.

[H2OPWR]

I've had an exciting evening, got into my truck to take the family out this evening, started her up and she was running REAL rough. The exhaust gas temp was 1000 F at *IDLE* and any attempt to throttle her caused her to stutter and usually stop running.

After looking at all sorts of sensor outputs, I noticed that the O2's were signalling mega rich and the MAP sensor was showing a permanent reading of 13.9 PSI. This would not change under any circumstances. I did manage to take a short test drive, the MAP reading was still stuck at 13.9 PSI though.

I examined the MAP sensor wiring, all looked OK and took a voltage reading from the signal wire, 4.5v constant. I finally took a pair of cutters and cut the MAP sensor signal wire, after this the engine ran fine albeit with a code and finally went into closed loop.

I took another test ride and she ran fine, although the cruise control was dead (I'm guessing this needs MAP) and the rev limiter was cutting in at 4,000 RPM.

Looks like I need to buy a new MAP sensor.

Russ.

Russ, Call the dealer. Anything emission related carry's a much longer warranty than stock. There is a chance that your warranty will cover it for free.

Larry

[Gary Diamond]

I got a 265 amp alternator to replace my 130 amp stock alternator. The guys at Ohio Generator were great but quite spendy.

Larry

That 130 amp must be peak rating not constant

[H2OPWR]

That 130 amp must be peak rating not constant

Yes. Alternators are always rated at peak. No matter which one. The high effeciency 265 amp alternator will provide 250 continuous amp draw. It is a very high quality product with very little current leakage. The OEM alternators will always heat up at high draw. The factory 130 amp alternator will provide 130 amps for a short period. Once fully hot will be down around 100 amps. All OEM alternators will only provide around 80% peak draw on a continuous draw. It is important for people to know the rating of their alternator and figure 80% at best for OEM. They are mass produced by the lowest bidder and of poor quality.

Larry