connection to air intake

[Jamesleaper]

James, welcome to the forum. OK, several things here... If you try to inject after the turbo then you are pressurizing the entire system all the way back to the reactor. I did a little research and a healthy 2.7TD makes 11.5psi of boost, that's a lot to overcome and trying do so will you quickly show just how many leaks you have in your system. Madscientist, in an overabundance of caution told you not to run HHO through the intercooler- this was said because KOH and NaOh will both attack aluminum, the favorite material for intercoolers.
That being said, you're most likely going to have to do it anyway, and here is how: dry your HHO.
Cut two 10" sections of 2" PVC, on one of them, glue caps to both ends then drill and tap one end center for a barbed hose fitting, on center of other end drill and tap for same. Screw in both hose barb fittings with sealant and set aside.
Obtain 2 Oatey 2" plastic mechanical test plugs, product #33401 and (1) 2" PVC repair coupler.
Cut the coupler in half so you have two rings and glue one ring on each end of the second 10" PVC tube so that the ends are flush.
Measure test plug depth so you can determine clearance distance for drilling side of tube at each end for barbed hose fittings. Extra layer thickness from split coupler is to prevent tube diameter increase from test plug tightening.
Cut four 2-1/8" dia. discs of SS, brass or bronze screen, NO aluminum or fiberglass or plastic.
Push one disc into tube a little beyond hose fitting hole, turn over and pour in 1 cup of uncooked rice, any brand.
Push a screen disc down almost onto the rice. Push in another screen disc leaving 4 or 5 inches between it and the last one. Pour in 1 cup of uncooked rice, any brand.
Push in last screen disc.
Install fittings with sealant and tighten test plugs.
You now have an inexpensive HHO dryer.
On installation you will run the line from your bubbler to the bottom of the first simple tube to catch gross liquids, line out from its top goes to bottom of gas (rice) dryer, line out of dryer's top intake air cleaner.
Both tubes need to be installed vertically.

Madscientist got turned around and accidentally said "advance" pump timing- he meant "retard" pump timing because an HHO enhanced combustion flame front moves so much faster that it advances your diesels timing for you! Therefore you need to retard the pump timing, starting with 1° while evaluating performance. If it is possible to decrease the fuel delivery curve (couldn't find your injector pump model) then gradually start doing that, also while monitoring performance. Timing, fuel volume and HHO volume must be tuned to obtain the best results. Need to know your year model also.

I had a compressor drier, (small type), fitted at one point, however it shattered, no idea why.
As for retarding pump timing, sounds complicated, i am not a mechanic and find the above beyond my capabilities.

ive recorded a video which shows the set up at the moment.

If you had some pictures/video of the homemade drier it would be appreciated.

http://youtu.be/b9xbVv3Igvg

[Jamesleaper]

My mistake with the advance to retard............ Lack of sleep no doubt !
Also your truck should be injecting or inhaling DRY HHO no doubt, I would not expect anything but! But that was not my concern with the inter-cooler, you should have the HHO entering as close as possible to the point of detonation as possible. If you have a vacuum brake booster you can tee off of that or the fuel tank purge valve vacuum line also works very well!

That appears to be mid 90's Nissan. Has it ever ran anything other then standard diesel?

You have the typical intake system as follows;
--air filter
--air flow meter
--air duct
--turbo
--duct
--inter-cooler
--duct
--intake manifold

So just follow the the air!

I run it on a mixture of veg oil and diesel. As for the rest of the vehicle its standard.

[ultra_efficient]

Hello, I was wondering if you could take a look at the video. It was suggested to me some time ago to connect my pipe for HHO delivery as close to the engine as possible. However doing this has bypassed a sensor on the intake. Which might explain why i dont get much improvement in MPG even after increasing HHO production. Any comments appreciated. Jim

http://youtu.be/t_M_2T-uS18

Hello everybody, to cut a long story short, if you dont re-tune your car it will forever stay at what it came from the factory with including the MPG ect. but if you re-tune leaner and compensate for the lean back with HHO to cool back the EGT to normal then you will be saving Fuel thus getting more MPG. HHO systems all depends on tuning

if you pump 20LPM into a 2.0L engine, yes it will get more power because its getting more fuel but it wont necessarily save fuel because the ECU is still set to factory settings, the same factory timing, the same injector pulsing, ect ect.....

but if you should re-tune that same car setup to lean the amount of fuel going to the engine via the timing and injector pulsing, then you will be cutting your fuel usage.

checkout the Apexi AFC thread

[BioFarmer93]

Good morning Richard,
I was not aware that that the Apexi AFC would also work on diesels- is it the same one you use or does Apexi make one that 90's Nissan diesel's can be tuned with?

[whear]

Ummm, you guys were saying that if the HHO is injected in the intercooler, it has to be dry.

Does he have to inject it in the intercooler because that's the best spot for a turbocharged car ? Or was it a different reason ?

My car is turbocharged ( VW Jetta 2001 1.8 T ) and I was wondering where should I inject the HHO.

I thought that it's good to inject it before the turbo. And the intercooler is actually after the turbo. I'm confused

I'm sorry if my questions seem silly. My knowledge is still very limited.


Thanks

[Jamesleaper]

Nissan diesel motor in a truck I take it?
That would do for it if its on the engine side of the turbo and you have a check valve and flashback arrestor in the HHO line. You don't want to have the HHO go through the inter-cooler. Ask the diesel guys but I think you could RETARD the fuel timing to actually decrease the consumption in conjunction with the HHO. If that were gas, I could give you the answer for sure.

Doesn't look like there's an inter-cooler ?? What year and motor size is that?

i was looking at how to retard the diesel pump on you tube, i couldn't find anything for my car, would you say this video is what is involved?, and as a total amateur i would be right in thinking this is best left to a mechanic?

http://youtu.be/FTXAm4P6nXU

[Madsceintist]

i was looking at how to retard the diesel pump on you tube, i couldn't find anything for my car, would you say this video is what is involved?, and as a total amateur i would be right in thinking this is best left to a mechanic?

http://youtu.be/FTXAm4P6nXU

If you have that same pump then that's how you could do that OR experiment and and keep very detailed track of your adjustments. Mark BEFORE you do anything so you can always return to normal. If you mess things up often and your not sure if you want to tackle it then have a mechanic do it. Not saying that you would but people who aren't mechanically inclined tend to mess up. Just use common sense and caution.

[Jamesleaper]

If you have that same pump then that's how you could do that OR experiment and and keep very detailed track of your adjustments. Mark BEFORE you do anything so you can always return to normal. If you mess things up often and your not sure if you want to tackle it then have a mechanic do it. Not saying that you would but people who aren't mechanically inclined tend to mess up. Just use common sense and caution.

Well at the moment the fuse is blowing, so i am going to test across each plate this weekend as suggested. I am not sure what i am looking ie. voltage increase or decrease, and what that would tell me. I do know that each plate is roughly 1.97 volts, the ones i have tested, so if i see any major discrepancy i will report back to you and await your suggestions. I am beginning to wish i had these plates laser cut and not from the guy on e-bay, who i thought was laser cutting them.

[BioFarmer93]

Well at the moment the fuse is blowing, so i am going to test across each plate this weekend as suggested. I am not sure what i am looking ie. voltage increase or decrease, and what that would tell me. I do know that each plate is roughly 1.97 volts, the ones i have tested, so if i see any major discrepancy i will report back to you and await your suggestions. I am beginning to wish i had these plates laser cut and not from the guy on e-bay, who i thought was laser cutting them.

Jim, I hope that you have not remounted the units- if so then you need to pull them out again. they need to be rinsed out thoroughly with fresh water then distilled water. What you are testing for is not an increase or decrease in voltage, but rather continuity between any two plates that are side by side regardless of polarity or neutrality. You will use the Ohms setting on your multimeter, be sure the test leads are in the proper holes on the meter face and the function indicator is set to the Ω symbol. The smaller the value that is shown on the display, the smaller the resistance (and the greater the continuity) will show where the short is. the higher the value, the higher the resistance. This test is done UNPOWERED! To do otherwise will smoke your meter. You test plate 1 against plate 2, then plate 2 against plate 3, etc., etc.. Depending on the sensitivity of your meter and how thorough a job you did of getting all of the electrolyte out of the reactor, all of the values should be very high and the one or two low ones you read will tell you which plates are touching each other. By the way, what material did you make your gaskets from?

[D.O.G]

Well at the moment the fuse is blowing, so i am going to test across each plate this weekend as suggested. I am not sure what i am looking ie. voltage increase or decrease, and what that would tell me. I do know that each plate is roughly 1.97 volts, the ones i have tested, so if i see any major discrepancy i will report back to you and await your suggestions. I am beginning to wish i had these plates laser cut and not from the guy on e-bay, who i thought was laser cutting them.

By all means, check the voltage between each plate and it's neighbor, you're looking to see about the same voltage at each gap of a stack. A very low reading could be a warped plate, conductive contamination inside the cell, or just the edge of the plates touching something external to the reactor.

Having said that, I think there's a more likely reason to be still blowing fuses.
I don't recall you telling us what size fuse you run, but it was green, so I'm guessing 30A.
After you drained and refilled your system in your last video, you were still drawing 29A, that's going to rise with a little extra heat, either from the system running, or radiated heat from the engine.

I see four options:
1. Use larger fuses, 35A (purple) and 40A (orange) are available in that style.
2. Use a second 30A fuse, with a second relay and wire the new reactor back to the battery.
3. Half drain the system again and refill with distilled water to lower the electrolyte concentration further. This will lower your current draw.
4. Reconnect the PWM into the circuit to lower your current draw.

The first option is only a temporary measure, you don't really know how high it will get until you run for an extended time.
The second option is better if you need to draw that current (make that much HHO).

The last two options will reduce the amount of HHO produced, along with reducing your current draw. You have to decide if this is OK for your particular application.

Pete.