low LPM

[myoldyourgold]

OK was there a PWM in use?

[Madsceintist]

OK was there a PWM in use?

At THAT time it was running- hot wire from the alternator- to the relay- to the reactor- to the ampmeter- to the ground. My reactor relay had its power on from my fuel pump relay, so as there would be no power to the reactor if the car wasn't actually running. Keep in mind these were the things that I started off with from my beginnings over a year ago. Much different now but it was a great start. I must say some of it has been mind numbing but over all its been fun and rewarding!

Also, NO there was little to no electronics as in PWM's. I wanted to keep it as simple as possible and play with the car more than the HHO. Just needed the right amount of HHO to make combustion.

[Jamesleaper]

Just bypassed the PWM, however havent changed wire size and took a reading on the ampmeter, no change, so increased amount of KOH, still no change on ampmeter.

Question, Is my wire size, (2.5mm2), controlling the amount of production?

im not an electric person, but with wire size i was always told to imagine a water pipe which will only allow a specific flow through any given diameter, so im thinking change the wire before it sets on fire!

correct me if im wrong, thanks, jim

[Madsceintist]

Just bypassed the PWM, however havent changed wire size and took a reading on the ampmeter, no change, so increased amount of KOH, still no change on ampmeter.

Question, Is my wire size, (2.5mm2), controlling the amount of production?

im not an electric person, but with wire size i was always told to imagine a water pipe which will only allow a specific flow through any given diameter, so im thinking change the wire before it sets on fire!

correct me if im wrong, thanks, jim

Are you saying there's no change in production with and without the PWM, or is there no difference without the PWM?
Also if your pulling to many amps with to small of a wire, you can melt the insulation off of it and cause a fire.

[aceras624]

seems like he'd notice the wires getting REALLY hot if lack of wire size was the issue

[D.O.G]

Just bypassed the PWM, however havent changed wire size and took a reading on the ampmeter, no change, so increased amount of KOH, still no change on ampmeter.

Question, Is my wire size, (2.5mm2), controlling the amount of production?

im not an electric person, but with wire size i was always told to imagine a water pipe which will only allow a specific flow through any given diameter, so im thinking change the wire before it sets on fire!

correct me if im wrong, thanks, jim

OK Jim,
You've told us the first reactor is 25 plates (4 stacks of 6 cells I guess) and has 1.97V across each plate. This equals 11.82V across each stack of the reactor. If that figure is with the car running (13.8V), you have about 2V voltage drop at this point.
You've told us the second reactor is 13 plates (2 stacks of 6 cells?) with 1.65V across each plate. This equals 9.9V across each stack of the reactor, giving you about 4V voltage drop at this point.
This is probably caused by drawing 24A (36mV on a 75mV/50A shunt) on 2.5mm cable and maybe a couple of hot joints.

If you run each reactor with 2.5mm back to the battery (no PWM) you would probably see much better production, even better with 4mm cable.
If you want to use the PWM, run 6mm cable as a minimum.

Ideally, you want to see no voltage drop at each stack of your reactors. I'd suggest you run the biggest cable you can fit and use the minimum number of joints that get the job done. You should see an increase in Amps drawn and LPM produced.

[Jamesleaper]

OK Jim,
You've told us the first reactor is 25 plates (4 stacks of 6 cells I guess) and has 1.97V across each plate. This equals 11.82V across each stack of the reactor. If that figure is with the car running (13.8V), you have about 2V voltage drop at this point.
You've told us the second reactor is 13 plates (2 stacks of 6 cells?) with 1.65V across each plate. This equals 9.9V across each stack of the reactor, giving you about 4V voltage drop at this point.
This is probably caused by drawing 24A (36mV on a 75mV/50A shunt) on 2.5mm cable and maybe a couple of hot joints.

If you run each reactor with 2.5mm back to the battery (no PWM) you would probably see much better production, even better with 4mm cable.
If you want to use the PWM, run 6mm cable as a minimum.

Ideally, you want to see no voltage drop at each stack of your reactors. I'd suggest you run the biggest cable you can fit and use the minimum number of joints that get the job done. You should see an increase in Amps drawn and LPM produced.

Question, i have earthed to the chasis and not the battery, and as yet have no negative connection at all to the battery, other than via the chasis, would a direct connection to the battery improve performance?

I am going to change all the wire to 6mm, and forget about PWM for now.

[BioFarmer93]

Question, i have earthed to the chasis and not the battery, and as yet have no negative connection at all to the battery, other than via the chasis, would a direct connection to the battery improve performance?

I am going to change all the wire to 6mm, and forget about PWM for now.

Jim,
-Impossible to do better than a direct connection to the battery..

[Madsceintist]

jim,
-impossible to do better than a direct connection to the battery..

Ditto............

[D.O.G]

Question, i have earthed to the chasis and not the battery, and as yet have no negative connection at all to the battery, other than via the chasis, would a direct connection to the battery improve performance?

I am going to change all the wire to 6mm, and forget about PWM for now.

Jim, I really can't understand why your reactor didn't work when the wiring was connected directly to the negative (earth) terminal of the battery the first time. That should be the better way of connecting it.

Obviously, connecting through the chassis works for you, I'm just concerned that it introduces a couple of extra joints that could be contributing to the voltage drop you are experiencing.

Just one other point (that you probably already know). Check that your fuse base and relay are rated (maximum continuous amps) for more that you actually expect to draw. Your shunt is good for 50A, your relay and fuse base should be about the same. Once again, this can help to remove a possible cause of voltage drop.

I hope this helps,
Pete.