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Thread: Relay to on/off switch

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    6

    Relay to on/off switch

    For the life of me I can't understand the connection between the relay and the on/off switch. Don't you need a complete loop between the relay and the on/off switch? I see only one wire from the relay #86 to the switch. How does the switch work if there is no wire back to the relay itself to complete the current? Does this system work differently from the electrical wires in homes?

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by rotorooter View Post
    For the life of me I can't understand the connection between the relay and the on/off switch. Don't you need a complete loop between the relay and the on/off switch? I see only one wire from the relay #86 to the switch. How does the switch work if there is no wire back to the relay itself to complete the current? Does this system work differently from the electrical wires in homes?
    A switch can be wired from the positive (and return) at the relay, but then it can be left turned on accidentally when the car is turned off.

    If the switch is wired using a positive that only turns on when the engine is running, like for the fuel pump, the relay then turns on and off with that other positive and can't be left on when the car is turned off.

    If this isn't answering your question, post the diagram you have.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    6

    Pictures

    I guess I understand your explanation, I'm just not used to a non-completed circuit, just not used to the idea. Anyway, I have attached a picture of my on/off switch, fuse and amp meter. Feel free to comment if I made any mistakes. Especially the amp meter - I have a 10 gauge wire connecting to the puny amp meter wires - it just doesn't seem right.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    194
    the relay uses an electromagentic switch to turn on. a very small ammount of current is needed to do this. the power in should have a large enough guage to handle ALL the current going through everything. While the sensor for when the relay is on can be very small as you dont need any large ammount of current at all. I use a remote wire from my head unit(radio)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    340
    Quote Originally Posted by rotorooter View Post
    I guess I understand your explanation, I'm just not used to a non-completed circuit, just not used to the idea. Anyway, I have attached a picture of my on/off switch, fuse and amp meter. Feel free to comment if I made any mistakes. Especially the amp meter - I have a 10 gauge wire connecting to the puny amp meter wires - it just doesn't seem right.
    The picture you've shown of the ampmeter shows that you only have the light on the ampmeter attached. The two studs on the back are what you attach the wires to in-line. Meaning that the ground from the generator goes to one of the studs and then from the other stud to a grounded location. The light(that you have attached in the picture) only gets attached to the cars interior lights, or leave it unplugged. Also, you should have your fuse(looks like a breaker) mounted to something that can disperse heat quickly, not just hanging somewhere.
    Its done right or its not done !
    Hail HHO.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    6
    Thanks! Didn't realize the small wires on the amp meter was for lights.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    194
    be warned. not all ampmeters are like this. some use a shunt and still have mounting bolts

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