Relay to on/off switch

[rotorooter]

For the life of me I can't understand the connection between the relay and the on/off switch. Don't you need a complete loop between the relay and the on/off switch? I see only one wire from the relay #86 to the switch. How does the switch work if there is no wire back to the relay itself to complete the current? Does this system work differently from the electrical wires in homes?

[D.O.G]

For the life of me I can't understand the connection between the relay and the on/off switch. Don't you need a complete loop between the relay and the on/off switch? I see only one wire from the relay #86 to the switch. How does the switch work if there is no wire back to the relay itself to complete the current? Does this system work differently from the electrical wires in homes?

A switch can be wired from the positive (and return) at the relay, but then it can be left turned on accidentally when the car is turned off.

If the switch is wired using a positive that only turns on when the engine is running, like for the fuel pump, the relay then turns on and off with that other positive and can't be left on when the car is turned off.

If this isn't answering your question, post the diagram you have.

[rotorooter]

I guess I understand your explanation, I'm just not used to a non-completed circuit, just not used to the idea. Anyway, I have attached a picture of my on/off switch, fuse and amp meter. Feel free to comment if I made any mistakes. Especially the amp meter - I have a 10 gauge wire connecting to the puny amp meter wires - it just doesn't seem right.

[aceras624]

the relay uses an electromagentic switch to turn on. a very small ammount of current is needed to do this. the power in should have a large enough guage to handle ALL the current going through everything. While the sensor for when the relay is on can be very small as you dont need any large ammount of current at all. I use a remote wire from my head unit(radio)

[Madsceintist]

I guess I understand your explanation, I'm just not used to a non-completed circuit, just not used to the idea. Anyway, I have attached a picture of my on/off switch, fuse and amp meter. Feel free to comment if I made any mistakes. Especially the amp meter - I have a 10 gauge wire connecting to the puny amp meter wires - it just doesn't seem right.

The picture you've shown of the ampmeter shows that you only have the light on the ampmeter attached. The two studs on the back are what you attach the wires to in-line. Meaning that the ground from the generator goes to one of the studs and then from the other stud to a grounded location. The light(that you have attached in the picture) only gets attached to the cars interior lights, or leave it unplugged. Also, you should have your fuse(looks like a breaker) mounted to something that can disperse heat quickly, not just hanging somewhere.

[rotorooter]

Thanks! Didn't realize the small wires on the amp meter was for lights.

[aceras624]

be warned. not all ampmeters are like this. some use a shunt and still have mounting bolts

[Madsceintist]

be warned. not all ampmeters are like this. some use a shunt and still have mounting bolts

The one pictured has a mounting bracket that goes over the studs BUT has two pieces of hardened plastic washers that keep the two polls from having a shared current. Use the installation instructions and read them well.

Though some of you may and will disagree, I prefer this type of ampmeter(60 amp +/-), to others, as it has given ME better production for an unknown reason.

rotorooter ;
"Thanks! Didn't realize the small wires on the amp meter was for lights."

If you plan on mounting the meter so it looks nice inside than you can wire the light into the cars lights for nite driving or you can just ground the black wire and attach the red to you reactors power so it goes off when there's no power to the reactor.