38mpg and idling issues

[sjrobinson]

Yes, except when its off the idling will go back to normal. But it does fluctuate when I turn on the AC. This has never happened before I put in the EFIE.

[myoldyourgold]

Turn off the EFIE at idle and the hho generator

[sjrobinson]

I did. I saw what you told me. The problem is still occurring thats my problem. Its not just at idle either. The engine is surging still although I thought the problem was resolved so thats why I went ahead with the EFIE. Cutting off the power to the EFIE does not bypass the downstream analog sensor though right? Id imagine thats the only reason why this could be occurring while the EFIE- and cell- are off.

When the engine needs more gas it does not get any. When the engine is at an idle and needs a consistent amount of gas it fluctuates. This all is now happening with everything on and with everything off. This has not happened before I put in the EFIE. I will be checking the fuel pressure to see if there is an existing issue there that has gotten worse with the tampering of the o2 sensors but turning the EFIE off does not work. In fact if I need to use it- like on the highway- I still have issues with power. And my sensors are set to 425 and 150mv. Thats much richer than the seller suggested at 350 and 200.

I did reset my Ultragauge and its now picking up the upstream sensor. But the readings for the downstream are at a low voltage, lower than usual.

[myoldyourgold]

Lets make this simple and due one step at a time. Disconnect the EFIE and put everything back to normal. NO EFIE or HHO. Reset the ECU. If some of the problems are still there then there is some problem with your vehicle. Once we establish that the vehicle is working properly then we can move forward.

How many amps does your HHO reactor draw after it is warmed up?

[sjrobinson]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWPc3...ature=youtu.be

I put up a video. Sorry its sideways and very quiet. Read the description for more. This is how my engine is acting without the EFIE on but it is hooked up. So the sensors should be bypassing the EFIE.

I keep it at 10 amps. I have a PWM. Ill take the sensors out of the EFIE and reset the ECU. Ill let you know what happens.

I should mention that although the instructions say that the EFIE should have a blinking LED and turn on after 30 seconds, it turns on immediately and does not blink.

Gimme a half hour to update this, I just unplugged the battery and directly connected the wires for the sensors...

[sjrobinson]

I may sound repetitive but Ill start from the beginning to break this all down now that I just reset my car.

This all started as you can see in my other post with surging issues. I suspected just issues with sediment getting in the fuel system. Fuel injector cleaner appeared to have solved the problem.

Now I put in the EFIE- thinking the problem is solved and the car runs fine for a 100 mile (one way) trip I had. I averaged 28 mpg doing all country driving and the car was having idling issues. Once its up to speed it does fine.

On the way back I was having the same issues. Turned the voltage of the EFIE to a more rich mix and the car does better and I get 38mpg. However, after I still have the idling issues.

The one thing I have noticed is that the idling issues occur when I am moving very slow in neutral and the car is warming up. It is also when the car is under load.

The EFIE is supposed to bypass the o2 sensors when the engine is under load and when it first starts up. But this does not happen. The LEDs stay lit and do not change.

So the car is not getting enough gas when it needs it is the main issue.

Now to the current state...

I just reset the ECU and connected the o2 sensors. The downstream is reading low. .1 or lower. Sometimes a little higher. The upstream seems to be doing fine. I had to wait about 5 minutes for the car to adjust. The idling eventually smoothed out but its still a bit low.

This time, the cell and EFIE are taken out of the system.

I took it for a spin, trying the car at full throttle to see. It drove fine except for when I put it in neutral while not moving. Thats the thing. When the car is going very slow or not moving, it has idling issues. If I'm cruising, I don't see issues with the idle.

I suspect that the EFIE has woken, so to speak, a fuel system issue that I thought was resolved with the fuel injector cleaner. I will do a pressure test.

However, that still does not answer why the LEDs did not light up as specified.

Then again it could be an O2 and fuel system issue that had existed before. Despite that I have no check engine lights.

My cars not a happy camper...

[myoldyourgold]

First the problem of rough or poor idle is with the car not the EFIE. Make absolutely sure the EFIE is hooked up right. Usually when the LED's do not operate as specified in the manual then the EFIE is not hooked up right. The EFIE is not going to wake up anything as you put it. The rear O2 should be reading close to what you stated. Usually not over.9V but you have to leave some variance for meter accuracy. It is not uncommon for a car to be just enough out to see a poor idle but not enough to throw a code. These types of problems are not simple to diagnose unless you have a lot of experience with that particular make and model. You need to make sure the car is running like you want it first and then turn on the HHO system. There are so many things that could cause you problems like a rusty tank, water in the fuel, which are hard to diagnose. I am not suggesting that these two are the problem just an example. It could be anything from a weak fuel pump to a burnt valve. Get the car running without HHO first and then lets start over again.

You have not answered how many amps the HHO reactor is drawing. This is important information you must have.

[sjrobinson]

Burnt valve is what scares me. But I can hear inconsistencies in the exhaust even when the RPMs aren't fluctuating, making me suspect an issue with the exhaust and there is no check engine light.
So its both surging while accelerating and an idle that you can see in the videos.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kzxhv...ature=youtu.be
Thats the EFIE in action. Its not working right and everything is most definitely hooked up right.

The car was having surging issues before but those seemed to be resolved with fuel injector cleaner. So I continued with the HHO process. The problems had occurred again though.

I know I'm making the symptoms fit the cause but if it were burnt valves, putting an EFIE in- that is not functioning properly, meaning it does not shut off when I accelerate or the engine is under load and it does not have a 30 second delay upon start up- would cause the engine to run lean under demanding conditions thus burning the valves. Would that be possible?
I did monitor the coolant temp but that doesn't always reveal exhaust temp. My car always stays around 200 degrees.

The big thing here is my car ran fine- had some problems that appeared to be fixed and then it went downhill after I put the EFIE in. And I put it in right the first time. Now the EFIE is out and there are still issues that were resolved before I put the EFIE in.

[sjrobinson]

So someone mentioned it could be electrolyte in the system.
It doesn't answer exactly why my o2 sensors are now going crazy- or it could... I'm not too sure. And the EFIE may have just been defective.

I'm going to see if the electrolyte is the issue since thats the simplest. I should hope. How do I flush the system or get it out if there it? Or should I just wash the manifold and IAC with carb cleaner?

[myoldyourgold]

Electrolyte getting into the throttle body would give you a sticky throttle. You can look in there and see if it is all white. If it is use some carburetor cleaner to clean it off and make sure it is operating smoothly. Best to remove it to clean it. I do not think that is the problem based on the symptoms. I am still doubtful that the EFIE was hooked up right. You seem to be sure it is though. Maybe post a picture of your hook up to the EFIE. That might help us.